Usually best to post a question (and only once) after you have exhausted your own research efforts.

Let me google that for you

 

and me trying to stop an argument to you was offensive. no i don't get that. and i said thanks several times. i honestly was just trying to help the argument end. sorry. i can assure you it won't happen again.

 

yeah Ross. Doc asked me a question. I was trying to answer it and see where he went with it. Couldn't get in between though. My mistake.

 

Wayne, I see what you're trying to say. And I understand it. Numberdummy goes back a long way with this forum and all of us. That wasn't the first spirited debate I've had with him. He loves to go after us sometimes and stir things up, and I added to the debate. It's all good there. I appreciate you trying to intervene, but it just came off as something else, especially with you repeating the question. Even though I'm having lots of fun with this, my eyelids are getting heavy, and sportscenter has repeated about 3 times now here on the TV. Here, let me buy you a beer. I'm going to bed.

 

Looking at the links in Ross's google search, it looks like it makes more sense to buy one of the 100% brand new Offenhouser pumps from Speedway for 49.00 than to buy a rebuild kit for up to 64.00. One of the problems is that the older diaphrams and seals are not compatible with today's 10% E unleaded fuels and deteriorate rapidly. Same with the carbs.

 

Since he's already 12v, the electric probably makes sense, but the "quality" rebuild kits are also made with modern materials. The problem is knowing if you're getting a "quality" kit.

I can't recall it being mentioned (at least recently) but any electric pump conversion should include an oil pressure switch that kills the pump power when oil pressure goes away. This keeps the pump from running in an accident, or when the line ruptures and is gushing gas all over the engine.

 

Unless I missed something with all the back and forth - doesn't appear that the line from the tank to the pump was checked. If you haven't done so, this needs to be done. From my experience, a new pump - electric or otherwise - cannot overcome a clogged line.

DW

 

I took the line from the tank to the pump off this morning. My plan was to blow into it as suggested and see if i got bubbles or nothing. So I let the line drop down so I could reach it from the drivers door and listen in the tank...Not necessary. As soon as the line hit the ground nice clean gas ran out at full speed. Had nothing in my hand or within reach to plug it with so a good gallon ran out. Finally got it plugged so I could reconnect it. I took the glass bowl off and filled it with gas and put a little in the carb. It did the usual fire up for two seconds then stop. The pump isn't moving fuel. I know nothing about the above mentioned priming of the system by blowing into the tank. So I guess I need to know that. I also found that my NAPA buddy can get me a new pump so that is good. Never primed a tank before nor have i ever needed to or heard of that so what am i missing? Thanks to all.

 

If the line was stock, it would be steel right up to fuel pump level, with a short piece of rubber from the firewall to the pump. Since you described it as "falling to the ground" I'm assuming someone has replaced the steel line with rubber to at least down near frame level? The pump won't be able to suck the fuel up if there is a leak at the joint between rubber hose and steel line. Check the rubber hose carefully, look for leaks all along the system.

 

Yep....PO ran a rubber line all the way. The truck has no drips under it anywhere. I check for dryness while I was under the truck a couple days ago so I see no signs of a leak at all. I'll wait on priming instructions now before I go and replace the fuel pump. Thanks.

 

Can't say I've ever heard of the need to prime the pump. Gravity takes care of most of it, the pump should be able to draw the rest of the way. Check the rubber line by giving it a squeeze, if it feels spongy, replace it. If it is old line the new gas can make it soft enough to suck shut, but my money is on the fuel pump being bad, ruptured diaphram or stuck, missing, obstructed check ball or spring. If you put your finger over the inlet on the pump, you should be able to feel the suction when the engine turns over.

 

Hate to say I told you so:

 

I hesitate to chime in on this spirited conversation, but I once had a small leak in a fitting that allowed the system to suck air instead of gas. Mine would start and run for a few minutes and then shut down. Gas didn't leak but air got in. How I don't know but it drove me crazy for a month before we got lucky and figured it out.

 

lol yeah if I had remembered that I wouldn't smell like Exxon right now. Washed up about 5 times but still have fumes.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep that in mind but man I hope this doesn't string out for a month!!

I also googled, binged, and otherwise didn't find anything on the little check ball in the fuel pump glass bowl area. I assume that is supposed to be free to move back and forth in the little channel its in? I noticed with all the moving around mine never moved.