I picked up the Excursion a few days ago, theft light blinking rapidly – was said to be because of the 6 position chip that was installed. Started everytime with no issue. Come to the problem, the truck sat overnight for 1 day without being plugged in (it was the coldest day we've hadthis week), and yesterday would not start, cranked but would not fire– theft light still blinking. Mechanic thinks its a PATS issue because of the theft light (his scanner showed U1147/U1262 - which seems to be PATS/PCM communication, but if PATS is disabled - with the tune - then I guess this should happen), and wanted to have it towed to Ford to diagnose – I of course opted not to do that being that the light had always blinked for me every day, and after reading through pages and pages, seems that the theft light does blink rapidly with a 6 position chip, and is 'normal'. Maybe, maybe not?


So, after 2 hours of trying to get it to start, we got nothing. Tried the PATS reset procedure, start in neutral, keep the key in for 15 minutes, etc etc. At this point the batteries were drained, and wouldnt even crank. At last resort I thought why not plug in the block heater maybe it was too cold, and at the same time we put a jumper box on one of the batteries. Not even two minutes later, we inserted the ignotion key in and out of the lock cylinder a few times for ****s and giggles and went to start it and it fired right up.


Not sure if it is related to PATS, the batteries, some other starting issue, or from it being so cold (not sure the block heater plugged in for 2 minutes would 'warm it up' but I could be wrong)? It has only been a day, but since that time it has started every time, drives fine – theft light still blinking. My question is, does this sound like something with the PATS, or loose wires or something electronic like that, or does it sound like some other starting issue? The battery voltage on the dash indicator seems good, but could it be a battery issue and somehow the truck not getting enough juice to start after sitting? Could the truck have been too cold and warmed up after 2 minutes with the block heater? Anyone run into something similar? Please help, thank you in advance.

 

Hasn't happened to me but I can answer some questions. 2 mins with heater plugged in will probably do very little, needs to be plugged in for 2 hours to get up to temp. How cold is cold? If I leave it plugged in overnight at less than 10 degrees overnight I can get in and temps are about 85...If in the 30's I am around 95. I have a 6-pos switch and mine blinks for awhile and then I think it goes off...dont really pay much attention to it. You might want to pull it out and see if you still have the problem. Be good to know how to do it just in case you have any problems in the future. Does the chip have a no start setting? In which case it would crank and not start. Have your batteries load tested to verify they are good, and use a volt meter to check the voltages. Disconnect them and check the voltages individually they should be close to the same voltage.

 

appreciate the reply. it snowed, id say it got to around the low teens. not really sure what to make of it. when you installed the chip, did you unplug anything in the PATS? I found some instructions below online that say to unplug a connector -


If you are installing the chip in an Excursion with PATS factory anti theft system, this chip will disable the PATS system.
-To eliminate the "THEFT" light, you must disconnect the red connector from the PATS module.
-The PATS module is located below the dash directly above the transmission hump in the floor.
-With the PATS disabled, any key that turns the injection will start the engine. In other words, a non-chip key will start the vehicle.

 

Nope, just pulled the PCM and installed the chip. Didn't do anything else. I am 99% sure that after about 10mins or so mine stops flashing. Who burned your chip?

 

yea, once the truck starts and runs a bit the theft light goes off. im wondering if something with the keys and the immobilizer, otherwise batteries or something in the line. I grabbed new battery terminal clamps (?) and ill pick up two new batteries and throw them in - batteries seem to be the most likely cause from it sitting and not starting in the cold.

 

For the most part, if a chip isn't compatible with the PATS system the Theft light will blink for about 5 minutes after start up and then it'll turn off.

My Hydra from Gearhead does it, no big deal. I didn't want to disable the PATS system by unplugging anything so I just deal with the blinking for a few minutes.

 

Ok thanks., it basically can't be the chip then. It seems like it's either something with the keys and pats (I get those error codes) unless that's normal, or maybe the batteries are dying and can't hold enough juice when it sat in cold and couldn't start it up. Sitting at the mechanics now since last night plugged in so we'll see what happens. Appreciate the help, and on a Sunday - first diesel.

 

I would say if you tried starting for 2 hours and your batteries finally died...then they are good to go! You have another issue. If its turning over and not starting the batteries are not the problem. Unfortunately on this 7.3 it could be multiple things keeping it from starting to low oil pressure, fuel pressure, sensors, or wiring...just to name a few off the top of my head.

 

Sounds to me like you don't have enough voltage to the starter, could be batteries, clamps, cables....

 

Can we be certain? Did you ever eliminate that possibility?

Did you ever remove the chip and attempt to start the truck while the problem was present?

Stewart

 

Ts6 will override PATS. Forget that system even exists at this point.

2min on block warmer does nothing.

You put jumper box/cables on it and it fired right up. Get your batteries load tested, make sure all cables and connections are tight, and corrosion free.

 

Low or weak batteries will fail in the cold every time. If you load test them try it also when batteries are cold. I found mine passed mid day at 45 degrees but failed first thing in morning at 15 degrees. New batteries and never had the problem again. Still with the 7.3 so many other factors can also cause a no start. First thing always should be a scan to see what the parameters show.

 

I do think it has to do with the batteries. Got some new clamps as well. To rule other things out, it appears the tune is pretty new, and it doesn't blow any black smoke in any setting, even on 140. I've read some places that the newer tunes don't smoke.. Not sure how true that is - or does it sound like a problem by not being able to smoke on the 140 tune? Thanks guys!

 

Smoke is bad and makes you look like a tool. The end.

No but seriously, smoke is bad. Waste of fuel, spiking EGT's, etc. Normal driving mine is fine, but when I floor it? Full-on #10 fuel plate 12v until the turbo lights off, then it clears up to a gray haze. Who were your tunes written by, so you have any idea? Does the PO know? Every high performance tune I've seen smokes to some extent, based off you calling it the 140 tune in guessing either DP or PHP - either one you should poof a little bit out the pipe.

Unfortunately, without gauges and some form of monitoring for parameters we can't really help troubleshoot your issue. Far more information is required.

 

What KM said...hard to help you trouble shoot without a lot of information. I think it is a regular ole TS flash, nothing special about it. I have GH tunes and hardly smoke at all...even in the all out setting.