Ignition Key Switch 86 Ranger 2.3 EFI stalling when touched while idling.

1986 FORD RANGER 2.3 EFI / 5-Speed / 4 banger / SOHC / 140 CID
Present mileage - 155,801.8
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In the last few months, I've had lots of problems with the truck not wanting to start and continue idling. it just cranks a few times, then finally turns over and maintains an idle, then shuts off.

I replaced the TFI. Now I just cranked it three times, the engind started, was iding for a few minutes, then I only touched the key while in the ignition, then the engine stalled. I restarted again, and lifted up on the ignition key and it stopped again. Should this be happening?

Should touching a key either up or down in the ignition while it's running cause the engine to stall? very weird.

I replaced this ignition switch with a MOTOCRAFT part a few years ago, should this be wearing out?
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1) Replaced Spark plugs, and wires about two tears ago.
2) Replaced Ignition switch about five years ago.

RECENTLY -

June 4, 2012 -
Replaced In-line fuel filter and removed IAC valve, cleaned out.


Since then, I've replaced, or cleaned the following:
1) Replaced Cap and Rotor

2) Replaced Fuel pressure regulator

3) Replaced corroded Fuel Pump relay switch/connector to the harness.

4) Replaced corroded Multi-Function ECC/EFI Fuel Pump Relay
Switch/connector to the harness.

5) Replaced Battery - within a few months.

6) Replaced TFI (Engine control module)

PROBLEM: I have experienced rough idling and when I came to a stop light, I'd have to rev up the gas to keep the engine from dying.

Thinking it was the filter, I replaced that in June, which seemed to help, but in the last couple months the engine will crank only a few times, then it would turn over on the third or fourth try.

The other day, I tried it and now it only cranks, and does not remain idling.

I'll have to go rent a pressure regulator tester first. Is it 35 or 40 psi's? What am I testing for...a bad fuel pump, or clogged injectors? I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator about two months ago. I also replaced the IN-LINE fuel filter, which had metal shaving from the pump, but after 26 years, that's normal, I've been told. I should have that replaced while it was up on the lift.

The TFI I had tested at Autozone was a MOTORCRAFT part and it tested BAD. I also had two extras I had laying around, and one of those tested GOOD. So I bought the TFI Duralast Module for $46.00.

I got it home, installed it (using the supplies dielectric grease) and I'm back to the cranking a few times, then it starts and maintains an idle for a few minutes, then stalls out. Sometimes it wants to idle, most times it only cranks.

I located my EEC-IV on the inside cab, passengers side kick wall, behind that plastic cover, (one Phillips screw, and another on the metal floor door trim) that loosens up this cover.

I DO appreciate the feedback here and those who suggest me testing codes or checking fuel pressure, but I have no tools like that, so I'm trying (wasting my time) to figure out what's causing this. I am tempted to save time, and have it towed to a repair shop that can do diagnostics on this...(cheaper than Fords prices) Being disabled with Cancer, I just needed to try to save money that I don't really have.

I smell gas when I crank, so fuel must be getting to the injectors. Spark is there, Distributor coil also tested GOOD.

When this was idling that one time, I removed the vac line from the VAC Hose tree, (that connects from the Fuel pressure regulator) and there was a lot of suction over the metal tube on the tree.

EEC-IV, I was told, don't go out as much as the TFI (Ignition control Module )

I also replaced my Pickup coil some years ago.

So does anyone feels it may be a fuel pump, or an electrical, or the ignition switch?

 

I think the ignition switch is part of your problem, my 86 ranger with a 2.9 v6 was doing the same thing. I could crank it, it would start and then quit. When I did get it to run, the gas gauge and some of the other stuff would not work unless I fiddled with the keyswitch position. It finally got to the point where it would not keep running unless I started it, and then held the key carefully in a certain position. A new ignition switch fixed mine.

By the way YOU CAN read the codes. The EECIV system is very user friendly as far as retrieving codes. All you need is a test light or a old voltmeter with the needle. That will give you the ability to read the codes, which you really need to do. Here's a site that will help you with that.

Fuel Injection Technical Library

 

Hey Franklin2,

That is so crazy! I still could have engine problems like an old Fuel pump, or something electrical, but for you to experienece exactly what I experienced, well, that weird, but I thank you for sharing.

About three years ago or so, I replaced my key cylinder from FORD, and it was really easy to do, because (as I try to remember) the original switch had a tiny pin hole that you poke a wire in, then it releases. (...or I'm dreamin') The replacement I bought does not look like it has anything at all to push in to release, so if it is a faulty the switch, then I'll need to find out how to replace it.

I also replaced my TURN SIGNAL SWITCH last year, (left side with Hazard light, turn signal, and bright lights) so I hope this has nothing to do with the key cylinder on the other side.....

Anyway....I removed the two sided Column pieces from steering column, gave it a once over and used Co2 air to blow any dust out. I screwed the two phillips screws back in, I even used 2 zip ties to get a nice solid tight column, the key in the ignition is no longer loose or causing the engine stall, no matter how I played with it.

and......guess what? It started right up! I shut down and restarted several times without it stalling. UNBELIEVABLE! I would have NEVER thought it could have been my switch. Good thing I waited and did not have my truck towed to the repair shop.

So that was yesterday, and today I did not have time to try it....All day long was doctors appointments, so tomorrow I try to drive the streets and maybe the freeway, if I feel brave.

To be honest, I thought this post about the ignition key causing engine stall would have me laughed right out of town. I'm glad I'm not alone...Thanks!

 

Just to make sure you know, I changed out the electrical part of the ignition switch, not the mechanical tumbler assembly. They are two different things. On the bigger trucks the ignition switch is mounted on top of the column under the dash, but if I remember correctly my ranger switch was mounted on the column, closer up toward the steering wheel.

You probably already know this, but just making sure.