I have just tried setting up my hydraulic clutch and it works but the clutch pedal travel is only about 3-4" when the master moves the slave cylinder to disengaged the pressure plate. How would one get a longer travel, or is this even
do-able?

 

To get longer pedal travel, you'd move the connection for the MC clevis towards the pedal's pivot. (new hole)

 

Thanks, thats what I was thinking needed to be done but the problem is that I'm right at the piviot point already. The MC only travels about 1 to 1-1/2" at best. This set up came out of a Mazda B2200 which had at least 5-6" travel, how do they get that?

 

Then you need to use a MC with a smaller bore. That way it will push less fluid per inch of travel.

 

Okay that makes sense to me, but the master and slave both game from the B2200 which also was using a T5 tranny. Shouldn't this have worked the same in my 55 F100?

 

Same pedal length ?

 

Mazda was top hung while the 55 is thru the floor, lengths for sure are different, but I'm thinking total pedal travel would be close.
Now if I can live with the shorter pedal stroke there shouldn't be any issues or are there?

 

Hey *****,

I know this is an old thread but i was wondering if you found a fix for the Mazda clutch master and slave setup. Im doing a similar setup with a 1953 f100 with 351w and tremec 3550. Also checked out your gallery and saw how you fabbed the setup. Very impressive but the only thing that wasnt clear in the picture is how the master clevis was installed on the clutch pedal pivot. I just want to copy what you have since it works (sort of). By the way I am noob and cant send pm's yet. Thanks

 

All I did was cut the stock clutch arm that is on the shaft from the pedal and drilled a hole thru it. I first used a clevis style connection but it hungup and bent. So I ditched that and used a swivel eye with a threaded connection and bolted that to a small piece of angle iron that was bolted thru the drilled arm.This allowed it to be on the side rather than on the bottom which allowed the shaft to turn with out binding on the connection to the rod that activates the master cylinder, worked good. I have since sold the truck so I can't take a new pic for you. Sorry! Good luck!

 

*****,

Got a couple more questions if you dont mind. Was the clutch pedal ratio good after that? Did you have to go with a smaller MC or did you keep it the same? I'm worried about not being able to find the correct setup to match the pedal to the trans. The throw on the tremec clutch fork is gonna be the same as the t5 as far as I know. How was it when you drove? Was anything different as far as driving? (Engagement points) Did you put any pedal stops in? Thanks again

 

If I am honest here, it wasn't that great. I found that it was so smooth on engaging/disengaging that I need to install a large friction spring in order to have some kind of pedal resistance. I could not get the proper pedal travel for normal clutch function in my mind but it did all work fine. I think the MC is fine but the secondary may need a smaller bore and longer travel on the plunger to properly activate the throw out bearing /arm. I hope this helps!

 

*****,

Sorry to keep bugging you but... Can you describe the pedal? Was it like you barely touch the pedal and then it disengages the clutch? Or was it like halfway down before it disengages or somewhere in between? Im assuming you couldnt even push the pedal all the way to the floor. maybe only halfway or sonething. I just want a to try to get some ideas so i know what I'm up against. Just got my trans today and having second thoughts about the Aod to manual swap already. I was thinking I might have to make a new piece for the clutch arm so I can get closer to the pivot. I don't see any MC with longer stroke so I'm thinking the smaller bore should solve the problem. I guess whatever the downside of driving it will be at least it will be manual shifted again! Not a fan of auto trans. Thanks again, Albert

 

The pedal was very smooth from top to bottom travel, it would go all the way to the floor. What made it difficult to judge engagment and disengagment was there was no resistance that was noticeable. With this set up the clutch engaged at the very top end of travel and for a new clutch installation it should have been nearer to the bottom. This maybe just getting the rods in the right place on the throwout bearing arm with the proper slave cylinder set up? I'm think the MC is fine but the slave may need to be different for this application.

 

*****,

For the clutch to be engaging at the very top sounds about right. I drove a mazda b2200 and that was where it engaged too! Lol! Mazda and Nissan trucks were both like that brand new. By the way, do you know the pedal ratio with your setup? If not i can wait till I receive the pedal from the wrecking yard. Still piecing it together but I have all the expensive parts here now. Can't wait to shift gears on my 351w! The Aod automatic just isnt fun. Later

 

To papabills54,

Sorry man I can't send you a private message because I'm too new to the site. But here goes hope you get it. Yes the tremec is a 5 speed. And the bellhousing I'm gonna use is a 82 mustang Srod 4speed one. Same bolt pattern and works perfectly. I'm gonna use a 3/4 master cylinder on mine but I'm gonna attach it the factory floor mounted system. In your case will be easier because you can buy the universal hanging pedal from tilton. But I would get the one with the matching slave. In your case I would use a t5 with that 302 with an s10 tailhousing. Will be a lot cheaper and should be plenty unless you like to drag race and stroke your engine. Just my opinion though. Also you can still use your driveshaft as is in most cases because it is very minimum difference in length compared to Aod. Bill, give me an email at greenmaz2002@yahoo.com I'd like to hear from you. Nice to see someone else doing a similar swap.

Albert