2004 ford expedition 4.6L V8 (76k miles)Scanner Codes p0113 p2195 p 2197
#1
2004 ford expedition 4.6L V8 (76k miles)Scanner Codes p0113 p2195 p 2197
Hello everyone, I have read tons of threads relating to this issue. However I am still confused. To make a long story some what short:
I was driving the car nice and slow and NORMAL.
All of a sudden, at a red light it begins to "choke" the entire car is shaking, the engine is revving up and down and then it turns off !!
I let it cool off start it up while idling it still gives the revving up and down. AND fluttering/spluttering.
I take it to autozone - and I'm thinking its the battery ( i had an oil change within 2 months, less than 2k on the car since ) because while at firestone they did an oil change and checked the battery said it would need replacing soon. Thus I did that. No luck. ( i thought it could be electrical issues from the battery not having enough juice. ) I went back firestone to see how much a diagnostics would cost and they stated $150 !!
I said no way, thus i went back to autozone which no longer does free scanners, but they did say Pep Boys did it. - and so I went to pep boys and they did the scanner and came up with codes
THREE Codes :
p 0113 - Air charger Temp Sensor ( $42.78 for part from Fordparts.com/dealership - more like "stealership" )
p 2195 - Bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen ( $49.99 at autozone )
p 2197 - Bank 2 sensor 1 Oxygen ( $49.99 at autozone )
THUS my question:
Pep boys said they would do a full diagnostics for $89 ( which is better than Firestone )
However I want to learn how to work on cars - I'M NEW to this stuff I have my dads old tool and I am somewhat smart and pick things up pretty quick.
So what CAN I DO ? BUY THE PARTS AND START CHANGING THEM OUT ?
What EXACTLY DO THE CODES MEAN ? I know they are SENSORS but HOW DO I GET TO THEM ? HOW CAN I CHANGE THEM OUT ?
OR SHOULD I JUST PAY PEP BOYS AND LET THEM DEAL WITH IT ? ( I REALLY RATHER NOT SINCE IM NOT WORKING AND HAVE TIME ON MY HANDS AND DONT WANT TO SPEND $$ )
PS
I ALSO ADDED A FUEL CLEANER AND FILLED THE TANK UP. WITH UNLEADED GAS (89) GOT ON THE FREEWAY DID 80-90 MPH - DID GREAT NO ISSUES - CRUISED AT 65 NOTHING, GOT OFF THE FREEWAY CRUISED AT 35 ON THE STREETS NOTHING LET THE CAR SLOW DOWN NOTHING.. HIT THE BRAKES TO SLOW DOWN AND THE ENGINE WAS LIKE A HORSE READY TO GO!! GOING BACK AND FORTH AND THE STOPPED AND IDLE ALLLLLLL BAD. - I DID LEARN THAT WHILE PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND HITTING THE GAS PADDLE IT WOULD DO MUCH BETTER ... SO I DONT KNOW IF THAT GIVES ANY CLUES. ALSO THE RPMS ARE FINE - ONCE I START THE CAR THE RPMS GO TO 2 AND THEN STAY THERE FOR A SECOND AND THEN GO BACK TO 1 AND STAYS THERE WHILE IDLING AFTER STARTING THE ENGINE.
ALSO AT AUTOZONE THEY DID CHECK THE BATTERY WHICH IS FINE THE STARTER IS FINE AND THE ALT IS FINE
ITS NOT THE STARTER IDLE SENSOR ... SOO YEA... PLEASE HELP
THANKS IN ADVANCE. I WILL REPORT ASAP WITH ANY UPDATES
I was driving the car nice and slow and NORMAL.
All of a sudden, at a red light it begins to "choke" the entire car is shaking, the engine is revving up and down and then it turns off !!
I let it cool off start it up while idling it still gives the revving up and down. AND fluttering/spluttering.
I take it to autozone - and I'm thinking its the battery ( i had an oil change within 2 months, less than 2k on the car since ) because while at firestone they did an oil change and checked the battery said it would need replacing soon. Thus I did that. No luck. ( i thought it could be electrical issues from the battery not having enough juice. ) I went back firestone to see how much a diagnostics would cost and they stated $150 !!
I said no way, thus i went back to autozone which no longer does free scanners, but they did say Pep Boys did it. - and so I went to pep boys and they did the scanner and came up with codes
THREE Codes :
p 0113 - Air charger Temp Sensor ( $42.78 for part from Fordparts.com/dealership - more like "stealership" )
p 2195 - Bank 1 sensor 1 Oxygen ( $49.99 at autozone )
p 2197 - Bank 2 sensor 1 Oxygen ( $49.99 at autozone )
THUS my question:
Pep boys said they would do a full diagnostics for $89 ( which is better than Firestone )
However I want to learn how to work on cars - I'M NEW to this stuff I have my dads old tool and I am somewhat smart and pick things up pretty quick.
So what CAN I DO ? BUY THE PARTS AND START CHANGING THEM OUT ?
What EXACTLY DO THE CODES MEAN ? I know they are SENSORS but HOW DO I GET TO THEM ? HOW CAN I CHANGE THEM OUT ?
OR SHOULD I JUST PAY PEP BOYS AND LET THEM DEAL WITH IT ? ( I REALLY RATHER NOT SINCE IM NOT WORKING AND HAVE TIME ON MY HANDS AND DONT WANT TO SPEND $$ )
PS
I ALSO ADDED A FUEL CLEANER AND FILLED THE TANK UP. WITH UNLEADED GAS (89) GOT ON THE FREEWAY DID 80-90 MPH - DID GREAT NO ISSUES - CRUISED AT 65 NOTHING, GOT OFF THE FREEWAY CRUISED AT 35 ON THE STREETS NOTHING LET THE CAR SLOW DOWN NOTHING.. HIT THE BRAKES TO SLOW DOWN AND THE ENGINE WAS LIKE A HORSE READY TO GO!! GOING BACK AND FORTH AND THE STOPPED AND IDLE ALLLLLLL BAD. - I DID LEARN THAT WHILE PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND HITTING THE GAS PADDLE IT WOULD DO MUCH BETTER ... SO I DONT KNOW IF THAT GIVES ANY CLUES. ALSO THE RPMS ARE FINE - ONCE I START THE CAR THE RPMS GO TO 2 AND THEN STAY THERE FOR A SECOND AND THEN GO BACK TO 1 AND STAYS THERE WHILE IDLING AFTER STARTING THE ENGINE.
ALSO AT AUTOZONE THEY DID CHECK THE BATTERY WHICH IS FINE THE STARTER IS FINE AND THE ALT IS FINE
ITS NOT THE STARTER IDLE SENSOR ... SOO YEA... PLEASE HELP
THANKS IN ADVANCE. I WILL REPORT ASAP WITH ANY UPDATES
#2
I would first look for a vaccuum leak caused by a failed vacuum hose. The most frequent issue is the PCV hose that runs from the passenger side valve cover to the back of the throttle body. There is a rubber elbow on the hose assembly which attaches to the back of the throttle body......you probably will have to feel around to find this it is buried back under the firewall. Anyway, that elbow is infamous for failing and causing a large vaccuum leak which would give the symptoms you are describing.
This is where I would start at least.
This is where I would start at least.
#3
hey pinellas50
it looks like you were correct - at the back of the engine under and behind the "firewall" i found the issue however as i was trying to pull it out IT RIPPED !!
now what do I do ? i have the 1st part of the elbow but not the part that connects to the pcv ...
thanks
ive gone to autozone 4+ times today haha
it looks like you were correct - at the back of the engine under and behind the "firewall" i found the issue however as i was trying to pull it out IT RIPPED !!
now what do I do ? i have the 1st part of the elbow but not the part that connects to the pcv ...
thanks
ive gone to autozone 4+ times today haha
#4
#5
I just helped a friend out on this exact same issue about a year ago. We weren't able to find anything that would work at the time and ended up having to buy the entire hose with elbows directly from the dealer. It was around $55 if memory serves.
I would go with what alloro is saying and try to find a cheap fix if you can find one. I wasn't able to find a cheap fix quickly and my buddy needed his truck back on the road to get his wife off his back which is why we ended up at the dealership.
I would go with what alloro is saying and try to find a cheap fix if you can find one. I wasn't able to find a cheap fix quickly and my buddy needed his truck back on the road to get his wife off his back which is why we ended up at the dealership.
#6
#7
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