Random loss of power
#1
Random loss of power
Have a 01 with 141k
Problem I have is, engine rpm drops to idle with no power/rpm climb under throttle. Usually happens on the 3-4 upshift/downshift with clutch engaged and triggers SES light for a split second then it clears itself. I notice it happens more often when the clutch is engaged for an up/down shift (could be when im on/off the throttle for the gear change also) but can go miles with no problems. When it happens, I kick it into "N" and lightly pump the gas (1/4 throttle hits) a few times and it runs fine.
Had a similar problem about 8mos ago but my truck would stall and not want to start no matter throttle position or clutch engagement. I changed the cps and she ran just fine. Started getting the random loss of power again 4 mos ago but no stalling. I changed the tps/pedal assembly and it cured the problem till a few days ago.
Could it be my brand new tps is crap? What else could be the culprit? Thanks for any help guyz!
Problem I have is, engine rpm drops to idle with no power/rpm climb under throttle. Usually happens on the 3-4 upshift/downshift with clutch engaged and triggers SES light for a split second then it clears itself. I notice it happens more often when the clutch is engaged for an up/down shift (could be when im on/off the throttle for the gear change also) but can go miles with no problems. When it happens, I kick it into "N" and lightly pump the gas (1/4 throttle hits) a few times and it runs fine.
Had a similar problem about 8mos ago but my truck would stall and not want to start no matter throttle position or clutch engagement. I changed the cps and she ran just fine. Started getting the random loss of power again 4 mos ago but no stalling. I changed the tps/pedal assembly and it cured the problem till a few days ago.
Could it be my brand new tps is crap? What else could be the culprit? Thanks for any help guyz!
#2
Lots of stuff in that signature. Have you done the 50 cent mod yet? It is worth looking at. Some trucks have issues with it but some don't either. Are you having any power issues going up hills.
When you had the not wanting to start issue, did the starter not want to turn over or did it turn over and just not start?
I had to replace my Clutch pedal position switch and I really need to do the permanent repair for the clutch. I have the part but been working on turbo, pedestal, sonut on up pipes, cleaning and scraping the valley and head areas. Just giving some TLC in general to my 250.
If you don't screw around and you have the right tools at hand then each valve cover takes a little less than a hour to get open to check your Under Valve Cover Harness. Then you can do the 50 cent mod and completely rule that out of the equation.
When you had the not wanting to start issue, did the starter not want to turn over or did it turn over and just not start?
I had to replace my Clutch pedal position switch and I really need to do the permanent repair for the clutch. I have the part but been working on turbo, pedestal, sonut on up pipes, cleaning and scraping the valley and head areas. Just giving some TLC in general to my 250.
If you don't screw around and you have the right tools at hand then each valve cover takes a little less than a hour to get open to check your Under Valve Cover Harness. Then you can do the 50 cent mod and completely rule that out of the equation.
#3
Forgot to mention that your up pipes might be leaking at the UP pipe to collector joints or you have a boost leak in your system. Check all your boots for leaks.
Look for signs of soot right at the up to collector joint. It heats and cools and those donuts take a real *** beating. Mine at 190K were completely worn. The donuts were there but no kind of seal whatsoever. When I took my turbo off I could just shake the collector back and forth. The drivers side up pipe was worn bad along with donuts.
My truck had multiple problems. Loose harness under each cover and leaky up pipes.
Hope this helps and gives you a direction to at least look into.
Dwayne
Look for signs of soot right at the up to collector joint. It heats and cools and those donuts take a real *** beating. Mine at 190K were completely worn. The donuts were there but no kind of seal whatsoever. When I took my turbo off I could just shake the collector back and forth. The drivers side up pipe was worn bad along with donuts.
My truck had multiple problems. Loose harness under each cover and leaky up pipes.
Hope this helps and gives you a direction to at least look into.
Dwayne
#4
#5
It is possible that the potentiometer in your gas pedal is no good. I would suspect that someone else with experience with pedal switch/signal replacement will chime in. This will at least get a bump for more eyes on this topic. Where is everyone else at? I have not had to replace the pedal potentiometer yet in my manual transmission truck.
Dwayne
Dwayne
#7
Pedal is a few months old but I'll try it.
Drove to work tonite, 35 miles up hill from sea level to 6500ft. No loss of power, no SES light but... had some real slight stumbles the last 5 miles. Was hard to notice at first, thought it was bumps in the road, actually had to concentrate a little to feel it.
Drove to work tonite, 35 miles up hill from sea level to 6500ft. No loss of power, no SES light but... had some real slight stumbles the last 5 miles. Was hard to notice at first, thought it was bumps in the road, actually had to concentrate a little to feel it.
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#8
See this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ensor-fyi.html
IVS(Idle Validation Switch) is right next to TPS(Throttle Position Sensor?) At the gas pedal on the floor. Thank you FordPride. I would Rep you but I already did for the HPOP lid thread or the window latch thread. One of the two. I have to spread it around.
Dwayne
IVS(Idle Validation Switch) is right next to TPS(Throttle Position Sensor?) At the gas pedal on the floor. Thank you FordPride. I would Rep you but I already did for the HPOP lid thread or the window latch thread. One of the two. I have to spread it around.
Dwayne
#10
#11
Changed filter about 3 mos ago ( checked the other day as a precaution, looks new)
Oil level good
No in tank mods
Fuel good
#13
#14
Best thing would be to get the code read, it does sound like an Accelerator pedal issue at first guess though.
Also have you inspected the O/D cancel wiring in the steering column for possible chaffing? Usually it pops a fuse, and also the gauges, but could be so intermittent it has yet to overload the circuit.
Also have you inspected the O/D cancel wiring in the steering column for possible chaffing? Usually it pops a fuse, and also the gauges, but could be so intermittent it has yet to overload the circuit.