1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

83 F-250 NP435 To Hydraulic Conversion

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Old 09-17-2012, 02:51 PM
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83 F-250 NP435 To Hydraulic Conversion

I've read for the last several on here trying to find some reference but haven't been able to. Maybe I'm overlooking or not searching correctly.

I have an 83 F-250, 300 6cyl, NP435, 4x4 reg. cab, long bed, non-tilt. I love everything about the truck except the clutch. It is so dang hard to engage that after driving for a few days my knee, lower back and calf are killing me. I put a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. in it less than 3k miles ago. It was shot when I got it but pressure is the same now as before. Seems all the references I'm finding are people wanting to drop 5 speeds in and how to install a master cylinder, support, etc. but I don't want to change transmissions. I simply want to keep my old NP435 but make it easier to push the clutch in.

Realistically if I can't, she's gotta go and I really really don't want to do that.

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated! -Cory
 
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:09 PM
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I think I have your answer. What you need to do is source a hydraulic clutch linkage and other parts related to it from a 1983-1986 F350 with either a 460 or 6.9L diesel. There was a thread made in the 1973-1979 forum about doing the opposite of what your doing. Good luck.

Here is my information source : https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-linkage.html
 

Last edited by KingBigJoe; 09-17-2012 at 03:14 PM. Reason: I added a word, fixed a word, & a link about said topic.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jeep-rally
I've read for the last several on here trying to find some reference but haven't been able to. Maybe I'm overlooking or not searching correctly.

I have an 83 F-250, 300 6cyl, NP435, 4x4 reg. cab, long bed, non-tilt. I love everything about the truck except the clutch. It is so dang hard to engage that after driving for a few days my knee, lower back and calf are killing me. I put a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. in it less than 3k miles ago. It was shot when I got it but pressure is the same now as before. Seems all the references I'm finding are people wanting to drop 5 speeds in and how to install a master cylinder, support, etc. but I don't want to change transmissions. I simply want to keep my old NP435 but make it easier to push the clutch in.

Realistically if I can't, she's gotta go and I really really don't want to do that.

Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated! -Cory
84-86 used a hydraulic clutch, even on the 6 cyl. To convert, you'll need the pedal assembly, hydraulics, and I believe the bellhousing from an 84-86. The bellhousing will need to be from a 300, 302, or 351W.
Once you have the parts, it's a pretty simple conversion. One of the most difficult parts is cutting out the hole for clutch master cyl.
 
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:42 PM
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Be very very very careful. I am in the process of a engine swap in my 83 f250 which came factory with a BB and hydrolic clutch. Putting a 302 in it so I got a bellhousing out of a later model truck to retain my hydrolic setup. It has a shorter depth on the bellhousing I found out after the install and had to pull it back out. But make sure you check those measurements on that also. But go and get a your hydraulic clutch stuff off your year but you will have to use a slave cylinder off if a later model cause they are different.
 
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:04 PM
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Stick with 84 thru 86 and you will be ok. And all the 5 speed swap threads apply to your 4 speed, just ignore the part where the 5 speed with the integral bellhousing is installed.
 
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:26 AM
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Thanks

Thanks all, I'll start the search for the 28 year old bellhousing :-).
 
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:44 AM
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Clutch Bracket

I've been searching/learning on the differences on the hydraulic vs mechanical bellhousings and it looks to me like the bracket that holds the slave cylinder is a bolt on piece to the housing rather than cast/integrated into it. Can anyone confirm or deny that? I don't know where to find a good guide to bellhousing differences. If that is the case and I can buy the bracket vs pulling the tranny again that would be great. My nearest junk yard of size is over an hour away for me to even try to go compare for what I need so I'm looking here first.

Thanks again, Cory.
 
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:00 PM
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I am not totally up on the different bellhousings. I thought some engines used the slave that was up inside the bell, and some engines(like the 460 and the diesel) have the slave on the outside of the bell. Take a look on Autozone's site in their repair guides, I think they have some pictures in there.
 
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:11 PM
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I'm wondering why your clutch is so heavy to operate.

I converted my truck (same model & year as yours) from auto to manual, using a new 11" Sachs clutch kit, & mechanical linkages from an 83 donor truck. The pedal is effortless to operate.

Something is causing yours to be heavy.
 
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jeep-rally
I've been searching/learning on the differences on the hydraulic vs mechanical bellhousings and it looks to me like the bracket that holds the slave cylinder is a bolt on piece to the housing rather than cast/integrated into it. Can anyone confirm or deny that? I don't know where to find a good guide to bellhousing differences. If that is the case and I can buy the bracket vs pulling the tranny again that would be great. My nearest junk yard of size is over an hour away for me to even try to go compare for what I need so I'm looking here first.

Thanks again, Cory.
My '85 van had a bracket for the slave, and it pushed on the fork just like a mechanical linkage would.

I would investigate the existing linkage. My guess is something is bound up. It is also possible that you have trouble in the bell with the throwout bearing and the bearing retainer on that transmission.
 
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