Almost done...need a little help.
#1
Almost done...need a little help.
I'm almost done getting everything back together and have a couple of things that are standing in my way. First, since I forgot to mark the distributor before I pulled it I'm now having to try and find TDC. I am following the Haynes manual on this. I'm assuming that the number one cylinder is the one on the cap with the big "1" over it correct?
So after putting the distributor back in I put the cap on and marked the side of the distributor and took the cap off. Then I proceeded to turn the crank until the rotor lined up with the mark I had made. The only problem is it's not at the top of the compression stroke, I think it's at the beginning of the compression stroke. I came to this conclusion because I took plug 1 out and put my finger in the spark plug hole and as soon as I get the rotor lined up with my mark is when I start hearing air leaking past my finger.
Another thing is I can't seem to find any mark on the pulley except this white one:
But when I get the rotor lined up with my mark this mark is no where near the timing marks, which I'm assuming are what these are:
This is probably my biggest problem at the moment. Also, do I have to time it after this or what? Not really sure.
A couple other things, does anyone know where this ground strap is suppose to be connected? The other end is connected to the firewall on the passenger side.
Also, the vacuum hose that is connected to the throttle body. The one the has a connection to each bore of the throttle body and then connects to a "Y" connector plastic piece. I don't remember where the other end connects to. I think is some where over on the passenger side but I forgot where.
Lastly, there are 4 threaded studs that connect the throttle body to the intake manifold. Does each stud get a nut? Because I have 3 regular nuts and then one other nut that looks like its made out of stamped sheet metal. I hope I'm explaining this well enough. If not I can take a picture of it. I think the odd nut out goes on the top left corner stud, it just doesn't seem like it is substantial enough to torque down the throttle body enough.
Thanks in advance for any help. Can't wait to get it up and running again.
So after putting the distributor back in I put the cap on and marked the side of the distributor and took the cap off. Then I proceeded to turn the crank until the rotor lined up with the mark I had made. The only problem is it's not at the top of the compression stroke, I think it's at the beginning of the compression stroke. I came to this conclusion because I took plug 1 out and put my finger in the spark plug hole and as soon as I get the rotor lined up with my mark is when I start hearing air leaking past my finger.
Another thing is I can't seem to find any mark on the pulley except this white one:
But when I get the rotor lined up with my mark this mark is no where near the timing marks, which I'm assuming are what these are:
This is probably my biggest problem at the moment. Also, do I have to time it after this or what? Not really sure.
A couple other things, does anyone know where this ground strap is suppose to be connected? The other end is connected to the firewall on the passenger side.
Also, the vacuum hose that is connected to the throttle body. The one the has a connection to each bore of the throttle body and then connects to a "Y" connector plastic piece. I don't remember where the other end connects to. I think is some where over on the passenger side but I forgot where.
Lastly, there are 4 threaded studs that connect the throttle body to the intake manifold. Does each stud get a nut? Because I have 3 regular nuts and then one other nut that looks like its made out of stamped sheet metal. I hope I'm explaining this well enough. If not I can take a picture of it. I think the odd nut out goes on the top left corner stud, it just doesn't seem like it is substantial enough to torque down the throttle body enough.
Thanks in advance for any help. Can't wait to get it up and running again.
#2
#3
Hopefully that solves the issue with your grounding strap.
#4
Yep thanks, one down, and yes I6. Also, I think that hose to the right is the vacuum hose that goes to the throttle body right? The one you have hanging from the green string. Where does that one go down to?
I though the distributor was suppose to be installed before attempting to find TDC. At least that's what I gathered from the Haynes manual. I tried the method you suggested with the hanger except with a wooden stick but I got worried and pulled it because I heard it starting to crack. I didn't want any part of it breaking off in there. When I tried to pull it it was stuck in there for some reason so I had to crank the engine the opposite when to free it.
I though the distributor was suppose to be installed before attempting to find TDC. At least that's what I gathered from the Haynes manual. I tried the method you suggested with the hanger except with a wooden stick but I got worried and pulled it because I heard it starting to crack. I didn't want any part of it breaking off in there. When I tried to pull it it was stuck in there for some reason so I had to crank the engine the opposite when to free it.
#6
#7
You have to find TDC with the dist removed then put th dist in with the rotor pointing at #1.
You have to start the dist down in a tooth off because of the spiral teeth but once it's all the way down in the block it will point directly at #1.
THEN you time the engine. Also the cam turns half the speed of the crank so its possible for you end up 180* off. You will know if you are 180* because on TDC both valves are closed on #1 cylinder and TDC 180* off, the exhaust valve will be open.
So coming up to the real TDC air will try to leak past your finger when over the plug hole on #1 cylinder. TDC 180* off the air will go out te exhaust port coming up to TDC.
I hope I made this able to be deciphered.
You have to start the dist down in a tooth off because of the spiral teeth but once it's all the way down in the block it will point directly at #1.
THEN you time the engine. Also the cam turns half the speed of the crank so its possible for you end up 180* off. You will know if you are 180* because on TDC both valves are closed on #1 cylinder and TDC 180* off, the exhaust valve will be open.
So coming up to the real TDC air will try to leak past your finger when over the plug hole on #1 cylinder. TDC 180* off the air will go out te exhaust port coming up to TDC.
I hope I made this able to be deciphered.
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#8
Got it. Took the dist out, cranked the pulley. I had my finger in there to listen for air and I could actually feel the piston when it got to the top and started to go back down. Consequently I looked at that the timing scale and that white mark was right at zero so Im pretty confident I got it. Put the distributor back in and lined up the rotor to my mark. Now I just have to figure out where this last vacuum hose goes and if I have all the throttle body nuts and I think I'm ready to giver her a go. Thanks!
#15
Another quick question. Before setting TDC I didn't remove the spout connector which it seems like I should have done. The haynes manual didnt make any mention of it, it wasnt until i started reading around here that I realized it. I've had the battery disconnected the whole time I've been working on it so I don't know if that matters. Can I just pull it now after I have set TDC and plug it back in? It's just the black plug that's on the distributor harness correct? I'm assuming when I do go to time it with a light I will pull the plug, use the light, plug it back in. I'm starting the timing procedure from TDC though correct and then looking for 10BTDC at idle right?