1989 2.3L - Stubborn crankshaft pulley
#1
1989 2.3L - Stubborn crankshaft pulley
Needing to do a timing belt on the Ranger I bought, the crankshaft pulley just feels it needs to be stubborn and not come off easy. I know the front pulley is pushed on and kept in place with a pin, however I think my puller may be too large to fit where it needs to be to pull it off. I want to say I am just pulling an pushing on the same part but not sure. This is my first 4banger vehicle and I have never ran into such a deal even with working on the heavy OTR diesels.
I sprayed things down with Liquid wrench and let it sit while I unloaded and mounted an engine onto a stand last night. I think I might have to buy another puller and reduce the diameter of the pivoting end to fit, which I don't know why Ford would make a pulley on a 4banger engine family different than a 6 or V8 platform.
Anyone have this problem before or am I just dealing with a stuck piece?
I sprayed things down with Liquid wrench and let it sit while I unloaded and mounted an engine onto a stand last night. I think I might have to buy another puller and reduce the diameter of the pivoting end to fit, which I don't know why Ford would make a pulley on a 4banger engine family different than a 6 or V8 platform.
Anyone have this problem before or am I just dealing with a stuck piece?
#4
The front pulley has a pin to keep it from spinning from what it looks like to me afte its installed, then we have the rear pulley, the one retained by the crankshaft bolt. That is out and I can't get the darn pulley to move what so ever. It doesn't help that these trucks are so limited in engine bay space so I can actually see what I am dealing with.
#6
Yeah, its still a pain with the core support there, at least for me anyhow. I can't fit my electric impact in there (old and too big to fit in between the bumper and the crank pulley with the socket & adapter on) I won't be touching the truck until next weekend but I still wonder why it didn't budge. I wish I could zip the front clip off and zip it back on after I do the crank pulley. I think I need to make a piston stop plate too so the engine doesn't turn when I am removing and installing the pulley since its quite the pain holding one bar and trying to turn and not to bend my puller.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
Ok, after finding that my slide hammer is too big to fit in the hole that is for the crankshaft bolt. I went to the local nut and bolt shop and bought a m14x1.50 thread bolt. Cut the head off, ground the shank flat enough to successfully drill a large enough 'counter-sink' type of recess in the bolt for my puller to push on. Of course the bolt after the threaded area O.D. is the same which won't fly when trying to bottom out to avoid damaging my threads in the crankshaft, I ground the bolt down to where the O.D was the same if not close to the bottom of the thread itself to clear.
The washer was rusted in there enough it took a couple good swings with a 3lb hammer to knock it out. Anti-seize will be used on installation!
The washer was rusted in there enough it took a couple good swings with a 3lb hammer to knock it out. Anti-seize will be used on installation!
Last edited by 385seriesHemi; 10-27-2012 at 03:13 PM. Reason: added
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dyoungen
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
10-13-2012 09:08 AM