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Cold Natured Ranger 2.3L

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Old 09-01-2012, 08:50 PM
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Cold Natured Ranger 2.3L

I have a '89 Ranger 2.3L with 250,000 miles on it. The truck runs as good as new. It is almost surprising how good it runs. One question I have, though, is I have noticed this truck has become more 'cold natured' lately....as in the last year or so. Specifically, when you start the truck you basically have to run it for 1 minute or so before you even think to release the clutch or it will die. It does it in 100 degree heat outside or 30 degree.

The question I have is, is there anything that I can/should check or do I just chalk it up to the mileage on the engine? And if so, out of curiosity, what makes them gradually become ''cold natured?''
 
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Old 09-02-2012, 07:59 AM
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Something messing with the air/fuel ratio & there are lots of things doing that + with the vintage & mileage, right now your suspect list is long, so where to begin????

If you have, or can come by a scantool that'll hook up to your underhood OBD-1 DLC connector, scan for trouble codes, even if the CEL isn't lit, as "pending" codes can be stored that haven't happened often or long enough to have turned the CEL on & they could provide good trouble shooting clues. If you don't have or can't come by a code reader, or scantool to do that, you can extract codes by following directions in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forums thread listing page.

With the scantool, have a look at & post long & short term fuel trim numbers, O2 sensor switching speed & voltage switching range, MAF sensor numbers, Engine & Intake Air temps.

Do a fuel pressure check at the fuel rail schrader valve test port.

Where are you on All past & present due scheduled maintenance items, like air & fuel filters, PCV valve, plugs & wires????

Any air induction plumbing mods, or using oiled cotton gauze or foam air filters????

Posting answers to these things may help the forum narrow down your trouble shoot some.
 
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:29 AM
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I'd look at the ECT and ACT, engine coolant and air charge temperature sensors. If they are off, the fuel mix will not be enriched by the computer when cold, and it is necessary to avoid stumbles and stalls until the engine warms up a bit. Even with the IAC bumping the idle, you can still get stumbles, at least I do, for ~1 minute until the intake gets warmed up. At least I think that is what is happening on my old truck. I'm just to lazy to check, and have lived with it for ~20 years. The engine starts instantly, with a good fast idle, but if I don't ease the clutch in very gently, it will stall. After a minute or so, the idle drops down as it should. I think it has been this way since new, so am reluctant to put much time into investigation.
tom
 
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Old 09-03-2012, 06:58 PM
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Also, it may be worth your while to clean the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor with a safe cleaner made for that purpose and check the Idle Air Control (IAC) to see that it is clean. If not, use the same cleaner to get rid of any carbon build up in it.

As you can see with these three sets of suggestions, there are lots of possibilities of things you can check and do to improve the performance of your long lasting engine. Many FTE members have had their 2.3 Lima engine hold up for 400,000 miles. Yours may be one of them.
 
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:19 PM
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Upon further inspection I found this line is broke in two. Do you know what it is and if it would help to hook it back up (even though I will anyways).

Thanks!

 
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