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Brake Calipers - What's your take on this?

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Old 08-28-2012, 12:00 PM
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Brake Calipers - What's your take on this?

How can a guy check if his calipers really do need replacement or not?

I get it that if they are dragging, not applying it's obvious but I'm wondering if I could gain some real stopping power by replacing them. Is there a real good test?

I'm not sure if I'm alone here but it seems that every vehicle I've ever owned if I had any brake work done the shop always wants to replace the calipers. No different this last time either. Seemed fishy to me and is common from what I've read.

Had my brakes done (pads and rotors) a few months ago as my stopping power was really bad. It's much better now but still not as firm as I would expect.

The calipers had to be lubed and pushed back in. I understand this is pretty normal.They made it sound like it was a hail Mary to keep me on the road. Just like every brake shop I've been in for the last 20 years.

In the last few months I decided that I am not going to pay $100+/hour for work that I can do myself on an old truck that is not my primary ride. But I would like to tow and want GREAT brakes.

I would like a more solid pedal. I know that it's all perception when it comes to brake "feel". But to me they just feel a bit soft. I was going to bleed them to try and firm them up but figured that we might be due for an upgrade or replacement.

My thoughts were to replace the original rubber brake hoses with braided steel and if required replace the calipers with either reman OE or something better.(brands?) Helpful you think?

What are your thoughts?

Truck is 2001 F150 5.4L 4x4 with 4wheel ABS Disc.
Going to post this question around a few places to see what the experts think.
 
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:44 PM
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Replacing the calipers will provide no effect of pedal firmness, only brake operation. FYI- you can purchase rebuild kits yourself (highly recommend OEM) for $5-$10 or you can purchase rebuild calipers (OEM or Bendix are very good). Firmness of a pedal (assuming there is no air in the lines) is determined by 1) the brake fluid- DOT rating; 2) braking linings (softer linings typically tend to feel softer); 3) flex/expansion of brake hoses; 4) amount of boost/size of master brake cylinder.

From your description & assuming that everything is functioning correctly, my 1st thought is the brake linings are of a softer specification than what you had, you can simply upgrade and get the firmness back; the replacement of the brake hoses, given the trucks age, probably unnecessary- while the use of braided hoses will reduce the hose expansion increasing firmness feel, it also creates a potential issue of the inability to visually inspect the inner flexible hose itself for indications of damage, deterioration, etc......just because a hose is braided does not mean the longevity of the hose is any better or less suseptible to failure in a street application. Brake fluid, DOT 3 or 4 is enough but upgrading to DOT 5.1 (or similar non silicone) is typically not recommend by the OEM's with ABS asalthough it has a higher performance standard (meaning it is not any thicker per say than DOT 4 but it does not compress as much during operation) it can slow the ABS operation.
 
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:11 PM
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Thanks Beechkid, I had not considered fluid in that equation. The fluid is pretty old. Honestly I don't know when it was last changed.
I should flush then bleed the system first to see if I can firm up the pedal and inspect my caliper function myself.
 
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:41 PM
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The mech's who did your brakes should have bleed the system....that's all you need to do. If the calipers rae failing, then you would have leakage at the seals or there would be uneven braking (because a caliper is hanging up) or one of the pads is wearing faster than the other...again, a sign the calipers are hanging up. In either event, the mech's should have inspected the calipers for all of this.....cleaning & lubing the caliper rails is a standard item BTW with any brake service/inspection.
 
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Beechkid
The mech's who did your brakes should have bleed the system....that's all you need to do.
Pads and rotor replacement would not included a bleeding I don't think. If it did they would have been sure to list it on my invoice I'm sure.

Heck if they wipe their hands on a rag I get billed for shop supplies.
 
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:21 AM
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symptoms of caliper problems.
dragging
fluid in dust boot
piston hard to push back into the bore

check for bent guide pins also. i found one on my 97 when i bought it.
 
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