Slave Cylinder Replacement
#1
Slave Cylinder Replacement
Good morning all...I've got a couple of questions I'm hoping someone would weigh in on. First the truck:
1996 F150 SWB 4X4 302 5spd. 168,000 mi.
Bought back in April basically for the pristine body and interior (southern truck). My wife decided she would like to use it as a daily driver shortly thereafter and so began the usual new used truck ritual. The truck had recently had a new heavy duty clutch installed along with a new "parts store" slave cylinder, so I really didn't worry about the clutch system and instead focused on tune up, filters, fluids change, brakes, etc. First problem we encountered was the hydraulic line quick connect at the slave cylinder...was driving one day and the pedal went to the floor, master cylinder dry. Got it home and found that the "o-ring" on the quick connect had been butchered when installed and the connection was leaking everytime the clutch was depressed (under pressure). I repaired that and continued with the other things that needed attention on the truck. One thing I did was to remove the seat, the carpet and the trans tunnel and then install the freeze plugs on top of the trans and the shift bushings. Wouldn't you know it, after getting everything back together, less than 2 days later the "parts store" slave cylinder went out. So, my big question is: what is the easiest way to go about replacing the slave cylinder. I've gone to the dealership and bought the factory replacement and I'm ready to start. I want to know if I can get enough clearance without removing the trans tunnel, and without removing the transfer case? I had planned to remove the shifters, the transfer case linkage, the driveshaft and the trans crossmember and tackle it from that point. Is that doable? Thanks for your input.
1996 F150 SWB 4X4 302 5spd. 168,000 mi.
Bought back in April basically for the pristine body and interior (southern truck). My wife decided she would like to use it as a daily driver shortly thereafter and so began the usual new used truck ritual. The truck had recently had a new heavy duty clutch installed along with a new "parts store" slave cylinder, so I really didn't worry about the clutch system and instead focused on tune up, filters, fluids change, brakes, etc. First problem we encountered was the hydraulic line quick connect at the slave cylinder...was driving one day and the pedal went to the floor, master cylinder dry. Got it home and found that the "o-ring" on the quick connect had been butchered when installed and the connection was leaking everytime the clutch was depressed (under pressure). I repaired that and continued with the other things that needed attention on the truck. One thing I did was to remove the seat, the carpet and the trans tunnel and then install the freeze plugs on top of the trans and the shift bushings. Wouldn't you know it, after getting everything back together, less than 2 days later the "parts store" slave cylinder went out. So, my big question is: what is the easiest way to go about replacing the slave cylinder. I've gone to the dealership and bought the factory replacement and I'm ready to start. I want to know if I can get enough clearance without removing the trans tunnel, and without removing the transfer case? I had planned to remove the shifters, the transfer case linkage, the driveshaft and the trans crossmember and tackle it from that point. Is that doable? Thanks for your input.
#2
In your case, it's a tad more irritating, havin' 4x4...
But when I did all my work on Michelle..
I simply pulled the rear Driveshaft out (Be sure to mark it and the Saddle with a paint pen/soapstone to avoid any vibration issues later on, by not clocking it as it was before you removed it.
Then did the usual:
-Unbolt the transmission mount
-Unbolt the Bellhousing
-Remove the Shifter (To allow for rearward travel of the entire transmission)
-Disconnect the Hyd. Clutch Line (Mine was NASTY so I cleaned it really well before re-attaching it)
-Depending, you might need to disconnect the Reverse Lamp Switch..
After everything was detached, I simply slid the entire transmission backwards....It gave me about 10" of free space to work in...No carpet, etc removal needed.
Just remember to reconnect everything when you finish...lol
But when I did all my work on Michelle..
I simply pulled the rear Driveshaft out (Be sure to mark it and the Saddle with a paint pen/soapstone to avoid any vibration issues later on, by not clocking it as it was before you removed it.
Then did the usual:
-Unbolt the transmission mount
-Unbolt the Bellhousing
-Remove the Shifter (To allow for rearward travel of the entire transmission)
-Disconnect the Hyd. Clutch Line (Mine was NASTY so I cleaned it really well before re-attaching it)
-Depending, you might need to disconnect the Reverse Lamp Switch..
After everything was detached, I simply slid the entire transmission backwards....It gave me about 10" of free space to work in...No carpet, etc removal needed.
Just remember to reconnect everything when you finish...lol
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