I run exhaust gas into the tank than braze up the holes.
Than coat both the inside and outside. A tank fixed like
this has outlasted the rest of the life of the rig. And in
some cases had went on to be used in another.

 

thats a great idea with the exhaust gas, do you keep the tank on the tailpipe the whole time your doing it?

 

I have heard of that used too. Any inert gas; argon, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, carbon monoxide, can be used to keep it from blowing up in your face. Keep the gas going into the tank till your done. A future project I have to do is to weld in the lock ring for a fuel injection pump on a '77 Maverick gas tank, I'll get a bottle for this and will TIG weld the new setup into place. Remember that gasoline vapors are explosive! I know a guy who thoug scared the hell out of his wifeht filling the tank with water for a couple days would work. He drained the tank and was welding on it when the vapors ignited, launched the tank,scared the hell out of his wife. Left him hard of hearing for 2 days. He got lucky.

 

Took the 33" thornbirds off my 84 and sold em. Now its just sittin on blocks. I never realized how small full size broncos were until i had my 99 f150 next to it! Ford definitely needs to put these 97+ trucks on a diet!

 

thornbirds, they are good to sell.

 

I generally only run the exhaust gas in for like 10 minutes.
But that is assuming that all the liquid gas is out of it. So ya,
I did blow up one that I had left like a cup of gas in. Not sure if
still running the exhaust gas into it at that time would have helped.
So as a rule of thumb always flash the tank before welding.
By this I mean to flash the torch over the fill hole a few times to be
sure all the petroleum (gas) vapors have dissipated before welding.
It works better to have your apprentice or uninsured shop helper do this.
And I still feel that brazing is about the best way to make this repair.
Although solder works but for me is a lot harder to do. But today as I
don't have a shop or a set of welding bottles I use Marine Tex. If done right
It can also out last the rest of the rig. I have repaired intake and cast
exhaust manifolds with Marine Tex that held up even on the exhaust for years
or as long as the rig ran or I had it.

So don't be afraid that Marine Tex won't hold up cuz it will.
Make damn sure the repair is super clean. Than wipe with like acetone.
Heat the whole tank or unit to be marine texed up in front of a space heater
or like that so it is hot to the touch. Apply the goop and let it cool. Than when it
starts to set up apply some more heat. Like set it by the wood stove over
night. Then sand and paint and ya have a repair that will last a lot longer than
the rest of the tank. This goop can and will sag or try and run off if ya
don't let it cool down after applying it. once it starts to set good than
standing on its side by the furnace over night is cool. Or hot I guess. You
know what I mean. Isn't there another mean word for that? Like meen?
But spell check don't like that one. Hey I am only an 8th grader with a
GED. What do I know.

 

I like solder, instant gratification, when it cools down "in seconds" it's ready to go back in. I've done several tanks with solder and have had no problems. The first tank I fixed was with a JB weld product specifically for that, it failed shortly. Second time I took it to a local repair shop and owner showed me how to solder the holes shut. He used a propane torch to heat an old fashioned soldering iron 30 feet away from the tank, and left fuel in tank so he could roll it to check for leaks. After seeing it done I've done it myself since.

 

there is some really good advice on here for tank repairs, and we all know with the price of fuel now we dont want them tanks leaking...

 

Here are a couple of places with stainless fuel lines Greg.
Browse
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220238
The summit site states that when changing to stainless lines sometimes they dont want to seal against the old fittings. Maybe something to think about.

 

The "fittings" should be no trouble at all. 3/8 hose and a clamp. I'd forgotten Summit had stainless line tnx.

 

So I somehow missed this post earlier. I have no idea why it has never dawned on me to open the cardboard glovebox and use it as a template to make a new one out of metal. I'm thinking of using sheet metal so I can tack weld it together. Thanks for posting your idea with the pics to prove it happened!

This kind of thing is why I will always keep coming back to FTE and recommend it to every Ford guy I meet that does not already know about it.

 

Found fuel spraying on headers, had to change pump in front of parts store. Decided while I was there to change belts too.

 

I also stopped at Kelly Supply and picked up 20 ft of 3/8 stainless line for $1.08/ft. Cheaper then Summit Racing. Now just have to bend and install it.

 

Fixed a sticking brake caliper... 3 other wheels need attention.

 

Bought a new fan clutch, bearings goin out on other one. Looking for a brake master cylinder now. It's getting hard to stop now. Buying a set of tires and rims for the '91, 315x 65 r 16, tires and rims for $300.