Odd knocking sound from 460
#1
Odd knocking sound from 460
Hi All-I have a 74 F350 w/original stock 460 4bbl and C6, 2WD. Has less than 43K original miles. It had been sitting quite a bit and rarely driven. Last month I changed the oil and fuel filter, even thought I had probably put less than 500 miles on it but I did it because the oil was about 6 months old, plus it gives me an excuse to tinker with it . About a week after changing the oil, I noticed a somewhat random knocking sound coming from the engine compartment while it was idling in the garage. I decided to change the oil again and put in the 15 40w Rotella. It still made the random knocking sound. I then removed the ps pump belt and the sound continued. I then removed the alternator belt and the sound continued. It sounded the loudest near the fuel pump. I went ahead and installed a new fuel pump, even thought I couldn't understand why the fuel pump would make a knocking noise. After changing the fuel pump, the knocking noise continues. ALSO, about the same time this knocking noise started, it developed a small oil leak at the rear of the engine, right before the oil pan. When I had changed the oil, there were no unusual metal shavings or anything in the oil. The knocking is a somewhat random knocking noise at idle and almost sounds similiar to the knocking noise that a diesel makes. When I increase the rpm, it still knocks but doesn't necessarily increase in frequency or noise.
My thought is that it could be:
1) timing chain banging around
2) main bearing starting to go (the truck did sit a lot of it's life + the oil leak)
3) flex plate issue? Not real familiar with this at all.
I'd be very interested in hearing your thoughts/ideas on this before I go tearing it apart.
As usual, thanks for your time and advice in advance!
My thought is that it could be:
1) timing chain banging around
2) main bearing starting to go (the truck did sit a lot of it's life + the oil leak)
3) flex plate issue? Not real familiar with this at all.
I'd be very interested in hearing your thoughts/ideas on this before I go tearing it apart.
As usual, thanks for your time and advice in advance!
#2
#3
The nylon on the cam gear is what was giving up the ghost. Since you have already replaced the timing set I am curious did you put in a set for the '74 or did you get a '71 or earlier set? The '74 set retards the cam 4*. Replacing with the early set will bring the cam back to 0 & you will notice a considerable increase in power.
#4
The nylon on the cam gear is what was giving up the ghost. Since you have already replaced the timing set I am curious did you put in a set for the '74 or did you get a '71 or earlier set? The '74 set retards the cam 4*. Replacing with the early set will bring the cam back to 0 & you will notice a considerable increase in power.
#5
Here are a few great sites for 460 information.
460 Ford Forum
BIG BLOCK FORD'S
385 Series Engine Build Combos and Data
Something else you might watch for are heads with casting numbers starting with C8, C9 or D0. While your heads can be worked the older ones have smaller combustion chambers boosting compression for more power. I took my 220 hp smogger '76 to a 350 - 400 hp (flywheel) engine for $300. I just finished putting an Edelbrock Performer manifold on it which gave it more bottom end torque & next week it gets a 750 cfm carb. All I have read says the factory 4bbl is a 650 cfm & it leaves the engine thirsty. Something you can do that is dirt cheap is recurve your distributor. The kit costs less than $10 & you will notice an improvement in throttle response. For the process of recurving your distributor you can check out this site.
Carbed Ford Message Board :: View topic - The Ultimate Duraspark Ignition Timing Guide
Those links should get ya started in unleashing your 460 making it the fire breathing monster it really is.
460 Ford Forum
BIG BLOCK FORD'S
385 Series Engine Build Combos and Data
Something else you might watch for are heads with casting numbers starting with C8, C9 or D0. While your heads can be worked the older ones have smaller combustion chambers boosting compression for more power. I took my 220 hp smogger '76 to a 350 - 400 hp (flywheel) engine for $300. I just finished putting an Edelbrock Performer manifold on it which gave it more bottom end torque & next week it gets a 750 cfm carb. All I have read says the factory 4bbl is a 650 cfm & it leaves the engine thirsty. Something you can do that is dirt cheap is recurve your distributor. The kit costs less than $10 & you will notice an improvement in throttle response. For the process of recurving your distributor you can check out this site.
Carbed Ford Message Board :: View topic - The Ultimate Duraspark Ignition Timing Guide
Those links should get ya started in unleashing your 460 making it the fire breathing monster it really is.
#6
Here are a few great sites for 460 information.
460 Ford Forum
BIG BLOCK FORD'S
385 Series Engine Build Combos and Data
Something else you might watch for are heads with casting numbers starting with C8, C9 or D0. While your heads can be worked the older ones have smaller combustion chambers boosting compression for more power. I took my 220 hp smogger '76 to a 350 - 400 hp (flywheel) engine for $300. I just finished putting an Edelbrock Performer manifold on it which gave it more bottom end torque & next week it gets a 750 cfm carb. All I have read says the factory 4bbl is a 650 cfm & it leaves the engine thirsty. Something you can do that is dirt cheap is recurve your distributor. The kit costs less than $10 & you will notice an improvement in throttle response. For the process of recurving your distributor you can check out this site.
Carbed Ford Message Board :: View topic - The Ultimate Duraspark Ignition Timing Guide
Those links should get ya started in unleashing your 460 making it the fire breathing monster it really is.
460 Ford Forum
BIG BLOCK FORD'S
385 Series Engine Build Combos and Data
Something else you might watch for are heads with casting numbers starting with C8, C9 or D0. While your heads can be worked the older ones have smaller combustion chambers boosting compression for more power. I took my 220 hp smogger '76 to a 350 - 400 hp (flywheel) engine for $300. I just finished putting an Edelbrock Performer manifold on it which gave it more bottom end torque & next week it gets a 750 cfm carb. All I have read says the factory 4bbl is a 650 cfm & it leaves the engine thirsty. Something you can do that is dirt cheap is recurve your distributor. The kit costs less than $10 & you will notice an improvement in throttle response. For the process of recurving your distributor you can check out this site.
Carbed Ford Message Board :: View topic - The Ultimate Duraspark Ignition Timing Guide
Those links should get ya started in unleashing your 460 making it the fire breathing monster it really is.
#7
After reading through a lot of the links that you sent to me and getting some "ejucatin" I really wish I would have put in the other timing set. It makes me almost want to re-do it as the cost is minimal but what a pain. It wasn't the most "fun" I've had in a while! But I know how I am....I can't stop thinking about the "would-a, should-a, could-a"!
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#8
Well I can say this, if you do decide to go back in & swap it out, you will not be disappointed. The only piece I am lacking for a 425-450 (mild) build is a cam, porting my heads & bigger exhaust valves. I really enjoy watching the hood raise when I tap the throttle. If you are going back in there here is something you may want to consider.
Timing Gear Drive Set Big Block Ford 429 460 Noisy 460N | eBay
For the price compared to a chain I think this is what I am doing when I get my cam. I believe you will need a degree wheel to degree your cam if you use this. I could be wrong though as I see marks on the cam gear for multiple installs up to +8*. You will get the cool whine with these
Timing Gear Drive Set Big Block Ford 429 460 Noisy 460N | eBay
For the price compared to a chain I think this is what I am doing when I get my cam. I believe you will need a degree wheel to degree your cam if you use this. I could be wrong though as I see marks on the cam gear for multiple installs up to +8*. You will get the cool whine with these
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