I'm still not clear on where the interference is between the pad backing plate and the caliper bracket, but I'm assuming I'll be able to tell once I tear into it. My truck pulls very hard to the left when braking, so I'm about to go get all new front calipers/brackets and soft lines.

I am doubting that NAPA would expose themselves much to lawsuits, since they supply many repair shops.

NAPA Eclipse loaded calipers are offered with steel pistons:
"IMPORTANT INFO: All Supplied w/ Metal Pistons as Original Equipment,Semi-Metallic Pads"
Left Front: CAL LE5342
Right Front: CAL LE5239

NAPA Eclipse loaded caliper (severe duty) has phenolic pistons:
"IMPORTANT INFO: Semi-Metallic Pads,OE Phenolic Piston"
Left Front: CAL LE5342SD
Right Front: CAL LE5341SD


I'm torn on buying metal piston calipers to prevent future binding at the potential risk of heating the fluid or the 'severe duty' calipers with phenolic pistons.
I figure if they are 'severe duty' then it should be way over engineered for the 'medium duty' it will get on my truck.

 

I guess I haven't seen the tight pads except as OEM - but I really clean everything pretty drastically including filing the rust and crud off any reused calipers right to 'white' steel. I then, even with fresh rebuilts, use a hight temp brake system silicone grease on anything that moves, including the pins. Go back to my post #25 of this thread and that's one of two OEMs at 36K that had to be beaten apart with a hammer just so I could trade them in

 

I would suggest actually checking the calipers out since the first one noted as steel piston shows that it has phenolic in it's specs. It certainly would not be the first time literature would not be correct. And it certainly would not be the first time an auto parts company found itself in a liability issue after deviating from OE specs.

Most of the time these trucks brakes in non-commercial use do not get very hot. But the potential is there as developed in OE tests running in locations like Townes Pass. If you look at the earlier model rear calipers you will see cooling fins on the back of the caliper. Even with phenolic pistons. IMO that (fins) was a little overkill, but there was concern after issues of prior models.

With my own driving conditions, even when I tow my little backhoe or dump trailer I know I never develop brake temps that would boil brake fluid even with steel pistons. It all depends on you style and environment.

 

I've only seen that with OE pads when vehicle have sat developing lot rot. However in your example you are running in a rich road deicer environment where all of the brake parts are oxidizing away, you have to admit. Not a situation that is different then a lot rot situation, and I would not expect any pads not to suffer to the same result.

 

Since there seem to be questions about the tab issues and some have issues posting images, here are some outtakes from an industry handbook that I wrote about a decade ago. While this shoes the Akebono caliper setup used on the earlier SDs, it still follows on the later model tucks or any vehicles out there.










I also put them in my facebook albums.

 

Thanks for all the info and especially the writeup!

I didn't get to set eyes on the 'severe duty' or 'steel piston' calipers: I ended up getting another NAPA brand with phenolic pistons because that's all they had in stock, and I only had time yesterday to do the job.

My driving style is pretty easy on brakes and my trailers are only 3500# and 6000#, and the 6000# has really good surge brakes.

 

I have had my 2007 f350 dually two front brakes seize up twice this year, but I do not drive the vehicle that much. The one time i had the burning brake smell and noticed both front brakes were dragging. So I looked at everything. When I bled the caliper, the piston released back into the caliper. So I'm assuming maybe the brake line or the ABS. Few weeks back, I was driving maybe 10 miles, and the brakes decided to lock up. I went to the gas station, with the brakes smoking, and activated the ABS, luckily, we had snow still, and the brakes freed up again. I had no issue going to my destination and going back home. I'm wondering if the real issue is the ABS module is getting stuck on the inside from corrosion

 

I have felt for a long time that my problem was related to not driving enough. Since it became my DD, brake problems have resolved. I have also started brake bleeding with every tire rotation. It has been five yrs since my last caliper froze. Prior to that did about 10 calipers.

 

 

Anyone have any good luck with any aftermarket setups? Baer, SSBC, Wilwood?

I found this kit from Power stop:
https://www.autoanything.com/brakes/...tow-brake-kits

 

My Power Stop sysyem is 5 years old and with about 50K total miles and 25K of them hauling a 12,000 5th wheel around the country. Zero problms with the as supplied Z36 pads

 

Still running stock calipers? I mean stock style? the ones that come with that kit just look like powder coated remans...

 

Just picked up a 2011 F-250 with only 36k miles. On its first longer ride the breaks started squeaking a little and the RR was pretty toasty and had some crackle, but no smoke. This week I'm planning on bleeding the brakes and removing the pads and calipers, sanding everything down to clean up any rust or grease that is there and then covering it all with Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. Hopefully the pads and rotors aren't shot, but I won't know till I open it up.

Has anyone found that replacing the rubber lines has helped extend the life of their calipers? Does installing the braided lines help reduce the risk? It appears to me that it isn't just a single issue with the brakes, but a bunch of things that compound the issue until the calipers seize.

 

im having a issue right now with my passanger rear of the power stop extreeme kit i installed in 2013 or early 2014, i gotta take it apart and inspect still. the kit itself is awesome stopping power over stock forsure. i havent touched the brakes since install. but will be checking that rear caliper soon as weather gets good again.

 

My brakes have been problem free for about 5 yrs now since I started bleeding with tire rotation and replaced the rubber hoses with braided lines. Hard to know which was the most helpful. I had many stuck calipers before this - maybe 10 in the five yrs prior.