2006 6.0L Powerstroke diesel alternator
#17
12-15-2013, 03:58 PM
New User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: MS Gulf Coast
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#18
12-15-2013, 04:03 PM
New User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: MS Gulf Coast
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I turned truck off it would not restart. that is what lead me to the alternator but someone said it may be a fuse. if it is a fuse I don't know which one the check.
#19
12-15-2013, 04:07 PM
New User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: MS Gulf Coast
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There are a couple (at least) ways to go at this job.
1. put a pry par beside the alternator, inside the belt and pry against the base of the alternator where the front bolt (drivers side) goes into the intake. While holding tension on the belt reach under the tensioner and flip the "kickstand" up and hold it while releasing tension on the belt. I'll post a picture for you if I can figure out how to post someone else's.
2. grab the belt with both hands while standing by the passengerside fender. pull real hard to get some slack, it will take both hands to move it but once you have some slack you can hold it with one hand and flip the kickstand up with the other.
3. pull back the rubber piece where the small shroud piece connects to the main part of the shroud (looks like a strip of small tubing) you will see there are several locking tabs where the two pieces meet. using a small screwdriver, work your way around the tabs and remove the small "eyebrow" panel from the main shroud, be careful, it breaks easy. this will give you room to put a tool in the 1/2 drive slot on the tensioner.
4. just unbolt the alternator, it's a bit of a pain to put back on but it can be leveraged back in place.
personally, I used to do #3, but #1 works a little better. My discription isn't great, but I'll try to come back and post a picture for you. theres a good one floating around here somewhere.
1. put a pry par beside the alternator, inside the belt and pry against the base of the alternator where the front bolt (drivers side) goes into the intake. While holding tension on the belt reach under the tensioner and flip the "kickstand" up and hold it while releasing tension on the belt. I'll post a picture for you if I can figure out how to post someone else's.
2. grab the belt with both hands while standing by the passengerside fender. pull real hard to get some slack, it will take both hands to move it but once you have some slack you can hold it with one hand and flip the kickstand up with the other.
3. pull back the rubber piece where the small shroud piece connects to the main part of the shroud (looks like a strip of small tubing) you will see there are several locking tabs where the two pieces meet. using a small screwdriver, work your way around the tabs and remove the small "eyebrow" panel from the main shroud, be careful, it breaks easy. this will give you room to put a tool in the 1/2 drive slot on the tensioner.
4. just unbolt the alternator, it's a bit of a pain to put back on but it can be leveraged back in place.
personally, I used to do #3, but #1 works a little better. My discription isn't great, but I'll try to come back and post a picture for you. theres a good one floating around here somewhere.
3. pull back the rubber piece where the small shroud piece connects to the main part of the shroud (looks like a strip of small tubing) you will see there are several locking tabs where the two pieces meet. using a small screwdriver, work your way around the tabs and remove the small "eyebrow" panel from the main shroud, be careful, it breaks easy. this will give you room to put a tool in the 1/2 drive slot on the tensioner.
#20
12-15-2013, 05:21 PM
New User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: MS Gulf Coast
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#21
12-15-2013, 05:30 PM
Not a problem bro 
. A high output alt will help with battery and FICM life, especially in cold weather. That factory alt is barely up to the task on a cold start with the glow plugs and other accessories on. It can take a good long drive to get the batteries back up to full charge after a cold start.
. A high output alt will help with battery and FICM life, especially in cold weather. That factory alt is barely up to the task on a cold start with the glow plugs and other accessories on. It can take a good long drive to get the batteries back up to full charge after a cold start.
#22
12-15-2013, 05:44 PM
#23
12-15-2013, 05:46 PM
only puts out 13.2 volts. that will charge a battery to about 25%
of it's capacity.
so... you could have a 300 amp alternator, if it only puts out 13.2
volts, it will never charge above the 25% level. honest.
the higher end DC power alternators put out 14.8 volts, which will
do a couple things.... fully charge the battery, AND supply a healthy
voltage to run the ficm.
this will let the ficm run cooler, and heat destroys the ficm.
ed@ficmrepear.com sells DC power alternators for a reason....
so you don't keep burning up your ficm after he rebuilds it.
glow plugs and engine loads on a cold 6.0 run over 100 amps.
what the alternator can't supply gets sucked from the batteries.
so you have batteries at a 25% charge getting drained until the
engine warms up and the load drops off.... then they can be slowly
charged up to 25% again.
don't buy a bull**** alternator. buy a decent one, and just drive your truck.
yeah, we know they are expensive. a lot of us whined like a mashed cat
when we had to buy one.
and if anyone asks you why you bought such a godawful expensive
alternator, tell them someone on the internet told you to do it.
#24
12-15-2013, 06:15 PM
here's the deal with generating power... the OEM alternator
only puts out 13.2 volts. that will charge a battery to about 25%
of it's capacity.
so... you could have a 300 amp alternator, if it only puts out 13.2
volts, it will never charge above the 25% level. honest.
the higher end DC power alternators put out 14.8 volts, which will
do a couple things.... fully charge the battery, AND supply a healthy
voltage to run the ficm.
this will let the ficm run cooler, and heat destroys the ficm.
ed@ficmrepear.com sells DC power alternators for a reason....
so you don't keep burning up your ficm after he rebuilds it.
glow plugs and engine loads on a cold 6.0 run over 100 amps.
what the alternator can't supply gets sucked from the batteries.
so you have batteries at a 25% charge getting drained until the
engine warms up and the load drops off.... then they can be slowly
charged up to 25% again.
don't buy a bull**** alternator. buy a decent one, and just drive your truck.
yeah, we know they are expensive. a lot of us whined like a mashed cat
when we had to buy one.
and if anyone asks you why you bought such a godawful expensive
alternator, tell them someone on the internet told you to do it.
only puts out 13.2 volts. that will charge a battery to about 25%
of it's capacity.
so... you could have a 300 amp alternator, if it only puts out 13.2
volts, it will never charge above the 25% level. honest.
the higher end DC power alternators put out 14.8 volts, which will
do a couple things.... fully charge the battery, AND supply a healthy
voltage to run the ficm.
this will let the ficm run cooler, and heat destroys the ficm.
ed@ficmrepear.com sells DC power alternators for a reason....
so you don't keep burning up your ficm after he rebuilds it.
glow plugs and engine loads on a cold 6.0 run over 100 amps.
what the alternator can't supply gets sucked from the batteries.
so you have batteries at a 25% charge getting drained until the
engine warms up and the load drops off.... then they can be slowly
charged up to 25% again.
don't buy a bull**** alternator. buy a decent one, and just drive your truck.
yeah, we know they are expensive. a lot of us whined like a mashed cat
when we had to buy one.
and if anyone asks you why you bought such a godawful expensive
alternator, tell them someone on the internet told you to do it.
#25
12-15-2013, 08:19 PM
Exactly^^ He did mention down farther in thread it would charge BUT SLOW
It may or May not Fully charge the length of drive will play
I don't think a OEM 110Amp puts out enough power to run the truck and Charge the batteries at Idle
IIRC OEM puts 85amp at Idle He scaled it at about 100amp
It will Charge it Yes but not Efficantly
#26
07-04-2019, 07:19 PM
Old thread, but this is what they say when they say, " Did you use the search function?" "Do a search, there's a lot of information on here about that...".
Anyways, so I noticed my alternator voltage....through my scangauge II is between 11.4+/- and 12.6+/-. I tested my batteries and they are at 12.6v. Started my truck and my voltage dropped to the 11.4-12.6 range with headlights, radio, AC etc off. Both batteries were replaced with NAPA Legend within the past 2 or 3 months and I keep my truck plugged into a batter tender being I don't drive my truck but maybe 5 or 6 times a month. Anyways, I am looking at changing the alternator and I see dcpower is recommended but, as we all know, it comes with a hefty price tag. I don't use my truck for anything special, don't have any special radio system, plow, etc, I just drive it and tow here and there. I am reading on here going with the OEM reman alternator is a bad decision and at a minimum go with the 140amp that came with dual alternator setup....my truck just has single alternator. With all this being said, what would be my best amp alternator to go with that isn't overkill, but will give me the best results. I don's really want to have to change cables and whatever else comes with going with a 200+ amp alternator.
Anyways, so I noticed my alternator voltage....through my scangauge II is between 11.4+/- and 12.6+/-. I tested my batteries and they are at 12.6v. Started my truck and my voltage dropped to the 11.4-12.6 range with headlights, radio, AC etc off. Both batteries were replaced with NAPA Legend within the past 2 or 3 months and I keep my truck plugged into a batter tender being I don't drive my truck but maybe 5 or 6 times a month. Anyways, I am looking at changing the alternator and I see dcpower is recommended but, as we all know, it comes with a hefty price tag. I don't use my truck for anything special, don't have any special radio system, plow, etc, I just drive it and tow here and there. I am reading on here going with the OEM reman alternator is a bad decision and at a minimum go with the 140amp that came with dual alternator setup....my truck just has single alternator. With all this being said, what would be my best amp alternator to go with that isn't overkill, but will give me the best results. I don's really want to have to change cables and whatever else comes with going with a 200+ amp alternator.
#27
07-04-2019, 07:33 PM
According to.......... 190 Amp HD Series Alternator for 6.0L..........this would be the most amps the stock cables can handle and this is what I would go with. What are yalls opinion?
#28
07-04-2019, 07:38 PM
There has to be a hundred newer threads then this.
Your batteries will be in that range for about two minutes after starting if you have the original size alternator of 110a. Three minutes out, voltage should be climbing up.
An alternator around 140a is a good choice on this application. Although what had been a good choice when I bought my brand years ago, it’s since got complicated.
Your batteries will be in that range for about two minutes after starting if you have the original size alternator of 110a. Three minutes out, voltage should be climbing up.
An alternator around 140a is a good choice on this application. Although what had been a good choice when I bought my brand years ago, it’s since got complicated.
#29
07-04-2019, 07:41 PM
#30
07-04-2019, 09:42 PM
According to.......... 190 Amp HD Series Alternator for 6.0L..........this would be the most amps the stock cables can handle and this is what I would go with. What are yalls opinion?
So are you saying the 190amp is overkill for my application?