This is my first post and my first project ever. I purchased a 1951 F1 Ford pickup. It has no motor or transmission. It has a 6 volt wiring system. I plan to convert the 6 volt to a 12 volt system. Here is the question I need help with. I would like to drop a small block ford v-8 into the truck. I have read many suggestions and I believe I will go with the 302 and the AOD transmission.

What years motors would be good for this?

What years transmission would be good?

What gear ratio and what kind of rear end would be good that would fit on the stock frame?

Would it be better to get a donor car or truck for the drive line?

Any suggestions or recommendations would be appreciated.

I can figure out the reset of the build but I am not experienced in the motor, trans or rear end specs. I am not looking to hot rod it but I want it to run good and sound good with descent gas mileage.

 

Hey Jes,
Didn't look like you were getting many responses on your post. Let's see if we can move it back up to get more attention. You have a lot of "hard' questions there.

Let me tackle your question on what year AOD to look for...
Ford came out with AOD's in 1980 in Lincolns & the initial years were plagued by problems in their clutch pack & they used a small Overdrive band that tended to slip off under tough conditions. So... stay away from pre-1988 AOD's with the small OD band. '92-'96 "E" & "F" series trucks have the toughest internals with the larger 2 inch Overdrive band & the "A" servo. The V8 Tbirds also had the upgraded AOD after '88.

I hope that helps a little. I'm running a 351 small block Ford with an AOD & we used a Ford Explorer 8.8 inch rear end with 3.73:1 gears. I think the Explorer was a 2001. Most folks go with with a Ford 9 inch rear end we stayed with the 8.8 to get the wheel bolt pattern to match our after market front suspension.

Good luck over there.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Welcome to FTE! We love projects!

What year motor? Are you planning on running a carburetor or EFI? I'm using an 85 302 converted to a carburetor but 302s have been around a long time and there's a lot of them out there.

What gear ratio? Sounds from your comments you want a cruizer. If you go with an OD transmission you want something around 3:50 but if the transmission will not be an OD then something around 3:00 would be better for good mileage.

Transmission? Your choices are FMX, C4, or C6 if you want to stay away from the electronically controlled transmissions. A C4 would work the best for you but they haven't been made since the 80s so you would have to find a used or rebuilt one.

Rear end? Depends on what you do with the front end. Are you planning IFS or will you stay with the straight axle? If you stay with the straight axle then a 57-72 Ford pickup nine inch would be almost a bolt-in and would have the same bolt pattern as the front.

Donor car/truck? For the engine and transmission only a donor car or truck would be less expensive than buying the engine and transmission separately plus the donor would have a lot of odds and ends you will need. Try to find something in the mid to late 70s or early 80s with a 302 and C4.

 

Thanks for the replys. This is great information. I have been reading so much info and found a great transmission explanation here. I guess its on thing at a time.

For now I will stick with the orginal front end however i may upgrade it later.
I plan on sticking with the carburetor for now and I have decided to go with the 1992-93 E & F series trucks AOD tranny and the 302 engine.

I really appreciate the points about the rear end because I do not want to carry two sets of tires because of the bolt pattern.

Any more info will be welcomed as i will soon put away the mouse and pick up a wrench.

 

By upgrade do you mean disc brakes or IFS? If you change to an IFS you may want to use some other rear end with a 4.5 or 4.75 bolt pattern. I used a 75 Chevy Malibu under my 49 but the Ford 8.8 is also a good choice.

 

Yes upgrading it to disc brakes thanks guys I am having fun researching all the stuff I can do but first things are first 12 volt conversion then motor, trans, and rear end.

 

Since, your going to disc brakes I would use an under cab power steering system so you can use the original peddles. The engine transmission and rear end my 1950 f1 has is around a 1970 302, c4 trans, and the original dana rear end,but a late 50's 9" inch rear or 1967-70 mustang or torino rear should work also.

 

Jes26201, great to have more builds for me to follow. Especially since I have a '51 F1 too and am planning a similar build as you. The only diff is that I want a 4/5spd manual for the tranny and that I'll be more on the HP numbers as supposed to the mpg.
On the rear end topic, i would like to go to disc brakes also so would it be better to convert the swaped rear end or find on with discs already on it?

 

You can install a later 90's ford explorer rear end with discs, and swap the front hub parts to a Ranger hub, such as that is sold by CPP. That'll give you 5x4.5 matching front and rear lug pattern. And then buy the appropriate master cylinder parts to make it all work. Just be sure they will allow clearance of the 5sp. tranny, unless you install it on the firewall.

 

If I did a swap from the ranger, what all has to be changed?

 

And is the 8.8 rear end bolt up job or do mods need to be made?

 

I think its just a bolt up job.

 

Hey Halaford,
We've got an 8.8 in 2001 Explorer rear end on our truck. Is it a bolt in?
I haven't met many bolt-in's on these old trucks - there is always a little wrinkle. Some thoughts on the 8.8 inch rear end below..

o Does it fit? Yes - though on our 1950 you have to use
2 inch spacers to get the "right" position in the fender.

o Does it work? Yes - you go from having 8 springs or so on the original stock rear end to just 3 springs from the Explorer but it works well. I've carried a few loads out back & had no issues works better than I thought it would.

o Is it a simple Bolt in 1 hour job - No - It will take you a day or two to get it right. You have to move the Shock spring perches to line the shocks up to whereever you want them under the bed. We flipped the springs as well to get a lower stance. We had to move a brace under the
bed & we spent some time setting up the emergency brakes & the cable back to the cab.

o I think the Ford 9 inch rear ends from later model trucks bolt in easier & you don't have to use spacers but the bolt pattern is different.

Good luck over there. Our 8.8 inch rear end cost $125 from salvage - looks a little rough but it cleans up fine - pics below.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Thank you very much, the 9" is more what I was wanting... But nothing is in stone. I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row, so I can start looking for parts.