Hello Fellas, i have a 1992 Ford E350 with 460 Motorhome. used it last year around summer time, returned home from San Diego and drove it home just fine without problems. every now and then we start it to keep it running. just last week my wife started it and noticed it had a rough idle and was blowing white smoke. when i looked into it, i noticed raw gas coming out the tailpipe with white smoke and it idles really hard.

any suggestions. i don't think its a head gasket because it drove fine last time we took it out, and we did not have any problems with it.

someone told me it could be EGR valve, sensors, or open or stuck fuel injectors.

i could purchase a innova scan tool, but i would need some links to show me how to ran the scan tool to make the right scans and get the correct codes? any Ford veteranos with similar problems?

 

are you sure thats fuel in the tailpipe? if yes, you must have an injector stuck open. if not, water often condenses in the pipe and drips out, especially on cold starts, or it could be coolant (if you're losing any). if it is coolant, you're talking about a head gasket problem, otherwise i don't think you are.

and for what its worth, the scan tool really isn't necessary for basic diagnostic, as you can put a jumper wire (paperclip or whatever) between 2 pins on the diagnostic connector (i don't remember which pins), and the CEL will flash the code(s) to you.
or you can walk into your local chain parts store (autozoo, oriellys, etc), and borrow the computer to scan it with. buying your own unit would only be a good choice if you're servicing multiple vehicles that its compatible with

 

Thank you for the reply Joshofalltrades, the liquid on the ground evaporates and smells astrong odor of gasine. You happen to know how to check for open or stuck injector. I will check the radiator for milky mixture. Thanks

 

Hi fellas,
just checked the radiator and the antifreeze is green and oil free. just tested the liquid coming out the aghast pipe and its water, but strong odor of gasoline is present.
anyone else out there with the same problem past or present?

 

yeah, i was thinking it would take A LOT of fuel for it to drip out the exhaust, but the required amount of water will condense in there quite easily.

your problem is likely to be one of a few things: injector stuck open, bad sensor causing too much fuel to be injected, or one or more cylinders not firing.
a sensor problem should be obvious on the computer diagnostic, a misfire can be tested for in the conventional ways, and for the injector, the usual test for an injector not firing is to listen to it with a stethescope, a normal injector will click on and off loudly, a dead injector won't. but one that doesn't seal inside, i don't know how to test without removing it... well maybe inspect the spark plugs after running it for 10 minutes that way, and see if any of them have any signs written on them

 

Well, found the problem, rats or squirrels chewed out two of my vacuum hoses and one red wire which connects to the injector. I fixed the hoses but I need to replace an inch of the red wire on the injector connector. Do you guys think I should replace the injector connector harness or just the one inch which is chewed up. Would that cause me any future problems?

 

either way should work just fine, but make sure you seal it up well, you don't want corrosion getting in there. cut into the offensive wire, slide a piece of heat shrink up past your repair, splice it together, then pull the heat shrink back down so it covers your work and warm in up until it seals nice. and if you're still not sure, tape it up a bit too

 

Repair it. Get some heat shrink tube, place it on the wire before splicing. Make a telegraph twist style splice to join the wires, solder it, and then move the heat shrink in place and shrink it.

Do not use crimp or scotch lock connectors. Injectors are impedance sensitive.

 

thanks guys, its all fix. Ford wanted $44 for one injector connector, and $5 for one barrel splicing connector. the entire job through Autozone cost me $8 bucks.

damn squirrels, that should teach me a lesson in taking too long to take some time off and use the RV.

 

Yup. The RV gods have spoken. This will be your only warning. Ignore your RV again, and the next time it could be much worse. Go and sin no more.

 

Thanks Brotha, no more. I'll be paying more attention. I mean, we dont neglect it, but we need to keep an eye on it when not in use.

 

BAD INFORMATION.

Not true, this will and has burned up computers.
You ground the STI wire that is located next to the diagnostic connector but not one of the pins of the diagnostic connector to run the Self-Test. Then the MIL in the cluster will flash out the codes.
The only time you short anything in the diagnostic connector is if you want to run the fuel pump without computer control and then you short pin #2 to pin #6 of the diagnostic connector.
You can short pin #2 to the STI wire to run the Self-Test but grounding the STI wire is much easier.

 

What's MIL and STI stand for fellas?

 

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL): A required on-board indicator to alert the driver of an emission related malfunction. May read either "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON."

Self-Test Input (STI): A dedicated circuit used to initiate the PCM Self-Test.



Yours should be located here:


For more information on the Self-Test go to this link:
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=13


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well i guess i stand corrected. wouldn't be the first time i read wrong info and believed it. thanks for the correction