I need a new degas bottle... mine is almost gray...LOL

 

Mine was yellow and come to find out brittle!

 

No metal reinforcement on the extruded plastic hose connector. I have an old Jeep Cherokee Laredo (86) with the straight 6 4.0L engine, over 240k, and the only thing I have really replaced besides the clutch from my high school quick shifting days is the degas bottle- 3 times and still haven't found a good replacement for Jeeps. Hope there's one for Fords

 

Will the new uvhc harness be updated to correct the harness wiggling loose or should he do the 50 cent mod?

 

It'll already have a clip designed to keep it from coming loose...

 

Alright, it took a couple bottles of Grease Lightning and a pressure washer but the engine bay is now looking pretty darn good. Took the foil off the turbo intake. Got my new UVC wiring harness and connector pigtail from Riffraff diesel in last Thursday and took the valve cover off Saturday. Man, I don't know who thought you could get to that back nut without a knuckle or flexible extension but other than that it was a piece of cake. The old UVCH looked fine, no scorches or other issues. Did find where one wire wasn't very well connected on the old pigtail- they pull out of the connector very easy. Hooked it all up on new gasket and put it all back together. Fired up easy (as always) and let it idle. Was feeling pretty good till it died again after 5-10 minutes. Wouldn't restart so although I have it cleaner and better parts on I didn't solve the problem.

So back to the drawing board. I thought I noticed that I had been messing with some wires around the steering column when it died so took that apart, found a loose wire that turned out just to be the beeper alarm when you leave the keys in with the door open, but nothing else that looked like an issue. Got a new ignition switch thinking that something was causing the truck to think the key got turned off (automatic kill switch) but that wasn't it either. Anyone know where the kill switch is? On my tractors and the MB diesel there is a lever that will kill the engine if the key doesn't work. I can't find anything about it in the bible and am looking for wiring diagrams (2002 F350 ton). Would the fuel pump emergency shut-off have a bad sensor? I don't know what would allow it to start fine, idle fine for 5 minutes and then kill it without it running bad. Then when it quits you can't restart it until the next day when it starts fine and repeats the process. When it won't start the fuel pump runs, turns over, but no fire. I un-hooked the batteries to see if I could reset any sensor that was the issue but it still wouldn't start. I don't think the engine gets to operating temp in that time. Any ideas??

Jared

 

Pull the ICP sensor connector off and check for oil. (Front of driver's side head on top).

Given your rodent problem, I'd also check the wiring going to the IPR solenoid on the back of the HPOP.

Not to be scary, but my truck decided to start doing the same thing recently. I now have a new HPOP. But there are a few things between now and a new HPOP - the above two being a good start.

 

Time to revive the thread and let you all know that I now have the PSD back on the road and not just a yard ornament.

Thanks to posts here and some other threads I found I finally bit the bullet and bought a new IPR. Thanks to Riffraff Diesel for their quality parts and quick shipping. Found some other posts describing the fun of getting the old IPR out. I got a 1 1/8" deep socket and was going to weld a metal bar to it as a tool due to how long the IPR is, and found out that apparently when they machine sockets now they don't keep the 1/2" opening all the way to the drive end, guess to make up for cheap alloys and metal failure. The rod on the IPR wouldn't fit so I ran around to some shops and finally found a metric deep impact socket that did have an opening wide enough for the shaft to fit in and still grab the 6 point section. Had to sit on top of the engine and unhook some wires and hoses to even get my big hand in to feel the IPR. Lots of cursing and using different wrenches and pliers to finally get that thing out and get the new one it.

Long story short started the truck up, it ran a little rough, but kept running. Drove it around the farm and finally a few miles loop and no problems. 2 months later and I've reverted to a happy PSD owner again, just not happy with diesel prices. I hope that my troubles and posts help someone else with the same problem as the mechanics and fleet managers I know personally never replaced one before or heard of the issue. Thought about just rebuilding with new o-rings, but after all this time I wanted to know for certain if it was the issue, and it was.

 

Oh, and a P.S. to all those who had mechanics tell them like me to replace the whole HPOP. I'm assuming they also replace the IPR when they replace the HPOP and that was all they needed to do in the first place but made a few extra hundred on the oil pump. Just my 2 cents.

 

This may sound really strange to you but I was driving my 2002 F250 7.3 SuperDuty truck home tonight. All was fine. I accidentally pressed the "overdrive" button on the right wand and suddenly, the gauges all went dead. The engine was running and the truck was at idle. It would move forward at idle speed, but the accelerator would not react to being pressed, the RPM remained as slow as could be. I had the truck towed to my house, but I do not know what could possibly have happened. Some entries here indicate this might be a recall item. I have 158,000 miles on the truck. Can anyone give me a "heads up" about this situation? Many thanks.

 

Being that this is a thread from January, I'd probably start a new thread with you symptoms. You will get a better response. Hope you get it figured out.