IPR valve testing on a early '03 6.0
#1
IPR valve testing on a early '03 6.0
A towed in F550 with a crank, no-start is back in our yard. I used a scangauge II w/x-codes to see the FICM volts. While testing (cranking) it showed 47-48 v, mostly 47.5 and 48. However with KOEO, the volts would start at 38 and would creep up, when cranking started it went right to 47.5v. I think it is OK.
We have had a cold start OK and hot start long crank (pushing the acelerator would help) for about a year. Also, you had to let it get to operating temp for it run good or it would feel like no power, puff some black smoke once in awhile, generally rebel against cold running.
Now, she died while running and will not start again. The dealer did a ICP and pigtail change and it still did not start. I am hoping to do a IPR pressure test via the ICP port like later 6.0s. Is it the same method just harder because of the sensor location? Any other options, maybe another spot to input air pressure?
Thanks for any help!
WSS
We have had a cold start OK and hot start long crank (pushing the acelerator would help) for about a year. Also, you had to let it get to operating temp for it run good or it would feel like no power, puff some black smoke once in awhile, generally rebel against cold running.
Now, she died while running and will not start again. The dealer did a ICP and pigtail change and it still did not start. I am hoping to do a IPR pressure test via the ICP port like later 6.0s. Is it the same method just harder because of the sensor location? Any other options, maybe another spot to input air pressure?
Thanks for any help!
WSS
#3
I agree with everything above. However, we are all over the place now. First, it went from four injectors needing replaced, and then to needing an HPOP. What is the present issue? It won't start hot or cold PERIOD? As well as the data above, does the engine sputter and fart, as in "try" to start when you turn the ignition key, or does the engine just crank as if someone were just cranking a gas engine over that's not getting fuel and spark?
As far as air-testing the high pressure oil system goes, I can tell you it is a ROYAL pain in the a$$ to get access to the ICP sensor port with a shop air line. The only easier way to do it, is to remove the driver side valve cover and go in through the small port up top on the rail, adjacent to where the braided steel line couples to. Since this is not the Ford Workshop Manual method, there is no such fitting to thread into that hole, so one would need to be fabbed up, if air testing it were so desired. Failing that, you would need to remove the turbo, pedestal, intake and EGR cooler assembly (that rear crossover on 2003 intake again being in the way) just to get decent access to the ICP sensor port to connect your air line. And once you get this far, you will need to command IPR closed to listen for air leaks. Without a scan tool to take active command of IPR duty to 100%, you can do it by having the key in the RUN position, and jumping pin #2 of C1381c (the middle of the three PCM connectors between the driver side battery and the inner driver side fender well which requires the battery cover removed to access unless it's MIA) which will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is the ground side wire to the IPR.
If by the miraculous chance you do manage to get this far in a timely manner and you hear air exiting through the oil filter housing with the oil filter cap removed during the air test, YOUR HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP NEEDS REPLACED.
Better get yourself an old seat cushion or very thick piece of foam to place over top of the hood latch as you're working up there so you don't crush your huevos, because you're going to be lying on top there for a LONG time. Good luck and have fun.
As far as air-testing the high pressure oil system goes, I can tell you it is a ROYAL pain in the a$$ to get access to the ICP sensor port with a shop air line. The only easier way to do it, is to remove the driver side valve cover and go in through the small port up top on the rail, adjacent to where the braided steel line couples to. Since this is not the Ford Workshop Manual method, there is no such fitting to thread into that hole, so one would need to be fabbed up, if air testing it were so desired. Failing that, you would need to remove the turbo, pedestal, intake and EGR cooler assembly (that rear crossover on 2003 intake again being in the way) just to get decent access to the ICP sensor port to connect your air line. And once you get this far, you will need to command IPR closed to listen for air leaks. Without a scan tool to take active command of IPR duty to 100%, you can do it by having the key in the RUN position, and jumping pin #2 of C1381c (the middle of the three PCM connectors between the driver side battery and the inner driver side fender well which requires the battery cover removed to access unless it's MIA) which will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is the ground side wire to the IPR.
If by the miraculous chance you do manage to get this far in a timely manner and you hear air exiting through the oil filter housing with the oil filter cap removed during the air test, YOUR HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP NEEDS REPLACED.
Better get yourself an old seat cushion or very thick piece of foam to place over top of the hood latch as you're working up there so you don't crush your huevos, because you're going to be lying on top there for a LONG time. Good luck and have fun.
#4
Agree this truck all over the place
How can they say Bad injectors when FICM Is Bad
In my mind you must repair FICM FIRST then if drivability concern is still present then test injectors its a Chain of Events and the FICM is First in the Chain
If the Numbers Cheezit ask for do come up bad For the HPO system I can post the info on the air fitting size for HPO Air test if you want
How can they say Bad injectors when FICM Is Bad
In my mind you must repair FICM FIRST then if drivability concern is still present then test injectors its a Chain of Events and the FICM is First in the Chain
If the Numbers Cheezit ask for do come up bad For the HPO system I can post the info on the air fitting size for HPO Air test if you want
#5
To clear up the confusion of the truck being all over the place, indeed it has been. The service advisor at our local dealer told me it needed injectors and he would get back to me with a price, this is when I asked some questions. The next day he said "sorry, I got you confused with another chap, your truck needs a ICP and harness". I had him confirm that we were not an a "process of elimination" project and he said this is what it needs. Next day he says it did not work and we were onto "the next step" . I could not afford the next step and probably even the step after that. So it is in our yard now. I am doing my best to patiently and methodically work through this. I believe it is now called "diagnosing". That is what I am trying to do. I apologize it it seems "all over the place"
Right now I am trying to upload a video I took of the scangauge while cranking and no cranking key on. It is taking forever. I think I will have to diregard what the service advisors have told me, one was that the FICM was good. Sure would be cheap fix if he was wrong. I will "miraculously" get there, maybe not in a "timely" manner but I will.
Thanks for you help guys!
WSS
Right now I am trying to upload a video I took of the scangauge while cranking and no cranking key on. It is taking forever. I think I will have to diregard what the service advisors have told me, one was that the FICM was good. Sure would be cheap fix if he was wrong. I will "miraculously" get there, maybe not in a "timely" manner but I will.
Thanks for you help guys!
WSS
#6
hey no worries we just see muiltiple threads going and get lost on this side the computer screen LOL no biggie
If FICM does Hit 38Volts at any time something needs addressed be it the Ficm Batterys and or Alternator.
A Strong charging system is a must for these truck especialy the FICM and everything else they are just so electronicaly controlled good power is a Must
If you want just post SGII values
at KOEO
and crank since it dont start
So post
FICM MP
FICM VP
FICM LP
FICM Sync
ICP
ICPV
IPR%
VOLT
If FICM does Hit 38Volts at any time something needs addressed be it the Ficm Batterys and or Alternator.
A Strong charging system is a must for these truck especialy the FICM and everything else they are just so electronicaly controlled good power is a Must
If you want just post SGII values
at KOEO
and crank since it dont start
So post
FICM MP
FICM VP
FICM LP
FICM Sync
ICP
ICPV
IPR%
VOLT
#7
This should be it. I hope it is viewable. I have FICM volt upper left and the FICM low volt on the upper right. The ICP psi is on the lower left and the sytem volts lower right.
'03 Ford PSD 6.0 crank no start 1 - YouTube
The truck arrived with dead batteries from the dealer, going to the dealer they were fine. Not sure if that makes a difference.
WSS
edit, that clicking sound is not the starter, it is the pioneer stereo that has a auto cd eject and it pulls the face down mechanically and it is slipping/stripped and makes an awful noise.
'03 Ford PSD 6.0 crank no start 1 - YouTube
The truck arrived with dead batteries from the dealer, going to the dealer they were fine. Not sure if that makes a difference.
WSS
edit, that clicking sound is not the starter, it is the pioneer stereo that has a auto cd eject and it pulls the face down mechanically and it is slipping/stripped and makes an awful noise.
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#10
Well if you see M-Chan post about pullen IPR and checking it
If I had to guess he did that replaced the IPR and got the truck running again
It makes it hard to search an issue and find threads that are open-ended
You have similair problems
any gauges
#11
YES! It is back on the road. It took me some time to get it all done but it runs great now. I ended up putting in a IPR remote oil cooler and filter kit while I was there. I sent in a oil sample that came back clean too. Put in a HPOP and IPR valve as well. Also did a EGR delete, it was the round cooler and showed little plugging but I decided to remove it and eliminate a whole bunch of heat going over the engine and cooking the coolant. Did a FCIM repair too and added a econotune while it was there. I am now getting 12+ MPG! That is up from around 9MPG. I never did any testing just threw money and parts at it.
Here is the main thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...injectors.html
I am new here and realized too late that it is the preferred method to stick to one truck problem as a whole instead of one issue/problem at a time. Sorry!
WSS
Here is the main thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...injectors.html
I am new here and realized too late that it is the preferred method to stick to one truck problem as a whole instead of one issue/problem at a time. Sorry!
WSS
#12
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12135178
#14
yes, I just got done doing one on my truck. 03 6.0 110k. Exact problems as the OP. about 230 psi at the ICP during crank. I took mine off, the screen was intact. Removed the screen, pushed the needle in and cleaned it. Clean some crap off of the screen, new o-rings just because. Back in business. None of the parts stores with in a 100 mi radius had a new IPR, so i cleaned it and it running great. Just while you have it out ohm out the solenoid to make sure it is good.
#15
YES! It is back on the road. It took me some time to get it all done but it runs great now. I ended up putting in a IPR remote oil cooler and filter kit while I was there. I sent in a oil sample that came back clean too. Put in a HPOP and IPR valve as well. Also did a EGR delete, it was the round cooler and showed little plugging but I decided to remove it and eliminate a whole bunch of heat going over the engine and cooking the coolant. Did a FCIM repair too and added a econotune while it was there. I am now getting 12+ MPG! That is up from around 9MPG. I never did any testing just threw money and parts at it.
Here is the main thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...injectors.html
I am new here and realized too late that it is the preferred method to stick to one truck problem as a whole instead of one issue/problem at a time. Sorry!
WSS
Here is the main thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...injectors.html
I am new here and realized too late that it is the preferred method to stick to one truck problem as a whole instead of one issue/problem at a time. Sorry!
WSS