Output Shaft Speed Sensor
#1
Output Shaft Speed Sensor
Okay, I have a P0720 code. I bought the Output Shaft Speed Sensor and read that it is on the back end of the transmission.
Can anyone confirm that it is on top of the transmission, near the tail end? Why are parts that go bad always in the most inconvenient places?
Thanks
Can anyone confirm that it is on top of the transmission, near the tail end? Why are parts that go bad always in the most inconvenient places?
Thanks
#2
#3
Well, I switched out the sensor. Wasn't difficult but you're working blind because of the location. Luckily there is plenty of room.
I also want to mention that it took some prying to get the old sensor free. 261,000 miles will probably tends to make things secure.
I am on a test drive right now. There was a little sputtering earlier, but it went away. Also, it hasn't died at idle yet.
I also want to mention that it took some prying to get the old sensor free. 261,000 miles will probably tends to make things secure.
I am on a test drive right now. There was a little sputtering earlier, but it went away. Also, it hasn't died at idle yet.
#4
#5
#6
Keep in mind that it can be plugs, injectors, and/or the associated parts.
#7
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#8
#9
i fought the same battle!! here are some options for you cheapest to most expensive...
1) the OSS wasn't the issues but it's new so leave it in, roll with it. hopefully didn't' cost you much over $30
2) there is a diode in the alternator that "could" go bad. unplug your alternator (this just turns the alt into a pulley, no work is being done). drive it and see if the shudder is still there, if so, plug alt back in and go to next step. if the miss/shudder goes away completely, the diode is bad, have a shop rebuild your alt, or get you a new one. read about this quite a bit on other diesel forums too.
3) change your plugs, boots, and springs. this is about a $40 fix. if your plug boots are dry rotted/cracked/not seating right, this can cause a arc to ground from the COP. this in turn sends a signal to the torque converter telling it to "LOCK UP" when it's not supposed to. it can cause stalls when you stop at an inter section, and shudder when driving in lower gears (1-3) but goes away at road speed.
i trouble shot the alternator first, wasn't the issue, i had it "refreshed" by a top notch shop here in town anyway. tried the OSS cause the snap on MODIS scan tool was showing erratic signal from the censor.... still wasn't the issue. bought plugs, boots, and springs to change out.... 7 out of 10 boots were bad cracked and dry rotted. changed all of them out, used a decent amount of die-electric grease on each plug and boot, and all the shudder issues were GONE!
no issues for about 12K miles from a simple COP boot change. hope this helps some!
1) the OSS wasn't the issues but it's new so leave it in, roll with it. hopefully didn't' cost you much over $30
2) there is a diode in the alternator that "could" go bad. unplug your alternator (this just turns the alt into a pulley, no work is being done). drive it and see if the shudder is still there, if so, plug alt back in and go to next step. if the miss/shudder goes away completely, the diode is bad, have a shop rebuild your alt, or get you a new one. read about this quite a bit on other diesel forums too.
3) change your plugs, boots, and springs. this is about a $40 fix. if your plug boots are dry rotted/cracked/not seating right, this can cause a arc to ground from the COP. this in turn sends a signal to the torque converter telling it to "LOCK UP" when it's not supposed to. it can cause stalls when you stop at an inter section, and shudder when driving in lower gears (1-3) but goes away at road speed.
i trouble shot the alternator first, wasn't the issue, i had it "refreshed" by a top notch shop here in town anyway. tried the OSS cause the snap on MODIS scan tool was showing erratic signal from the censor.... still wasn't the issue. bought plugs, boots, and springs to change out.... 7 out of 10 boots were bad cracked and dry rotted. changed all of them out, used a decent amount of die-electric grease on each plug and boot, and all the shudder issues were GONE!
no issues for about 12K miles from a simple COP boot change. hope this helps some!
#10
#12
#13
You can replace the OSS and the VSS and it will not fix your the P0720. Find a shop that can monitor misfires. They have to plug in a computer that is able to translate the data. "Most" often this code is caused by at least one bad coil, although some find that just replacing the COP boots fix the problem.
#14
Sorry, didn't realize the thread was LOL
You can replace the OSS and the VSS and it will not fix your the P0720. Find a shop that can monitor misfires. They have to plug in a computer that is able to translate the data. "Most" often this code is caused by at least one bad coil, although some find that just replacing the COP boots fix the problem.
You can replace the OSS and the VSS and it will not fix your the P0720. Find a shop that can monitor misfires. They have to plug in a computer that is able to translate the data. "Most" often this code is caused by at least one bad coil, although some find that just replacing the COP boots fix the problem.
#15
There are lots of variables on the VSS as you can imagine. My mechanic, since it was new to me, checked out the VSS for me. He was able to unplug it from the harness on top of the drivers side wheel well and it was still sending a signal to the ECM/PCM that the truck was going 126 mph. LOL... it wasn't moving. That is when he said this is going to cost ya, because he will have to troubleshoot it. In other words he would have to hunt for the problem at an hourly rate. I told him that I can do that. I brought it home and started digging into FTE to figure out where to go. After days of perusing probably hundreds of posts I figured out that it all leads to the COP's.... so I go buy some cheap ones. Sure enough that fixed the P0720 problem and it ran great for a couple of months or about 5k miles. Now I believe I have more then one randomly misfiring under load only. I just ordered a new set of all 10 COP's. While almost everyone on FTE recommends MC COP's I still have a hard time coming up with enough justification to spend 4x more for them. I did find on other forums some COP's that are working from eBay. The other forums state that they have had no problems with them. The other thing is that the seller is in FL and not China. They have a phone number to call and talk with someone. I will give them a try.