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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 06-17-2012, 05:32 PM
geoasis geoasis is offline
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'89 f150 5.0L suddenly begins cutting out

Hi there,
Could someone please tell me where to start trying to find the source of my problem. This truck runs perfectly for awhile (as much as ten miles or so) but then suddenly begins sputtering and wants to die. Sometimes I can keep it going but other times it needs to sit awhile then runs fine for a bit, then begins missing again.
Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 06-17-2012, 06:09 PM
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Thumper19 Thumper19 is offline
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My 89 5.0 did the exact same thing. It would run good but then its like once it warmed up it didn't want to run and would sputter and die. But let it cool down it would start right back up.

Mine turned out to be the distributor module on the distributor I believe its the tfi module. It was replaced and ran just fine. They are common to melting so I was told and cheap ones don't last long. So if you get one from autozone or advanced auto get a good brand not some duralast or bwd brand one
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:13 PM
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I agree with thumper. I had a similar problem in my 89 it was the pip in the distributor. A good quality distributor will more then likely correct your problem. Good luck
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Kris
1989 F150 xlt lariat 4x4 302 5spd meyers 7ft plow

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two things I always carry. Tow strap and jumper cables. The tow stap is to help other people. The jumper cables are so they can help me.
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:55 PM
geoasis geoasis is offline
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do I need to remove the distributor to change the tfi?

Thanks for the info and will try it. Do I need to remove the distributor to get the tfi off?
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:57 PM
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Yes I would suggest replacement of the complete distributor.
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Kris
1989 F150 xlt lariat 4x4 302 5spd meyers 7ft plow

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two things I always carry. Tow strap and jumper cables. The tow stap is to help other people. The jumper cables are so they can help me.
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by geoasis View Post
Thanks for the info and will try it. Do I need to remove the distributor to get the tfi off?
No. You can get the ignition module for $30. just loosen the distributor and turn it and you can get it out. However you have to have a special socket to get the bolts holding the module in out. I would do this before replacing the whole distributor.

For what you would have in a distributor and ignition module you can just get a HEI distributor with the coil, cap, and button.
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Carolina Man
SCV Member, Camp Litchfield #132

1989 F150 XLT Lariat, Super Cab, Shortbed, 4x4, AOD transmission, 351w EFI, 1979 Dana 44 Solid Axle Swap, 3G 130A Swap, 8" lift, 35*12.5*R15 BFG AT's, 4.56 gearing. AKA: The Grey Goose
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:13 AM
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Yes do as rebel says. You don't need a whole new distributor yet. Try a new tfi and when you rotat the distributor make sure you set it back to is correct timing
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:05 AM
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same crap happened to me, but i just boom, lost all power no sputter and die, It was my ICM
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:28 AM
geoasis geoasis is offline
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Appreciate all replies....

....will try turning distributor to get the module off and trying a replacement. What type of fasteners are holding the unit to the distributor (can't quite tell at first glance)? Also noted that heat is the problem here. Should I use dielectric grease between module and distributor?
Thanks to all.
Frank
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by geoasis View Post
....will try turning distributor to get the module off and trying a replacement. What type of fasteners are holding the unit to the distributor (can't quite tell at first glance)? Also noted that heat is the problem here. Should I use dielectric grease between module and distributor?
Thanks to all.
Frank
Its a bolt. Like a 7/32's best I can remember, but it has to be a thin wall socket. Yes, use grease which should come with your new ICM. Also you will need to make sure your timing is correct because you are moving the distributor. So you need a timing light.
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1989 F150 XLT Lariat, Super Cab, Shortbed, 4x4, AOD transmission, 351w EFI, 1979 Dana 44 Solid Axle Swap, 3G 130A Swap, 8" lift, 35*12.5*R15 BFG AT's, 4.56 gearing. AKA: The Grey Goose
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:58 AM
joekacker joekacker is offline
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It's a pain in the ****. 5.5 mill socket that typically needs to be shaved a little bit . And deep wall yep. Distributor wrench helped me on my 302
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:15 PM
geoasis geoasis is offline
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Okay...done...tfi replaced...problem persists...

...what next? By the way, you were right one bolt was a pain in the **** but I ground down a 7/32 socket until it squeezed in there. So its not the tfi ...where do I look next?
Thanks
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:25 PM
joekacker joekacker is offline
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I would change the distributor all the way out. It's expensive I know . But better then wasting time and guessing parts. My buddys bronco was the same way he could drive 15 minutes then it.would start.crapping out. Put in a donor distributor and wallah problem solved. You could try a junk yard. After ypir truck sputters and dies and you getti spark ? Or.maybe getting weak spark
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:06 PM
geoasis geoasis is offline
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The first time.....

....I started it after the new tfi it started great and idled better than recent memory (which was already pretty good). Truck drove smoothly for about a mile...then began missing slightly so I headed home. Yes, even after I come to a stop and it dies, it usually starts right up, just runs real ragged and won't idle long.
Thanks for any help.
Frank
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  #15  
Old 06-21-2012, 01:37 AM
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Have you checked for codes yet?
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Kris
1989 F150 xlt lariat 4x4 302 5spd meyers 7ft plow

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyfox10 View Post
two things I always carry. Tow strap and jumper cables. The tow stap is to help other people. The jumper cables are so they can help me.
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:37 AM
 
 
 
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