1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Stock 4 barrel intake vs aftermarket360fe

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Old 06-06-2012, 08:58 PM
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Stock 4 barrel intake vs aftermarket360fe

Been seaching for a 4 barrel intake for my 360 fe stock engine. Found one at the junkyard for 35.00. Edelbrock, offenhaiuser are going for around 200.00 shipped is it worth the extra money for the aftermarket or should I just get the stock intake from the junkyard. Thanks!
 
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:16 PM
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Stock is all you need. Is there a big "S" or "T" on the manifold?
 
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:34 PM
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An aftermarket aluminum intake will shed nearly 50 pounds from your motor, but that's pretty negligible on a truck.

The Edelbrock doesn't flow any better than the above mentioned "S" or "T" intakes, so unless you can get one cheap, i.e. under $100, you might as well run the factory cast iron intake.
 
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
Stock is all you need. Is there a big "S" or "T" on the manifold?
Not sure was on a 66 t bird, car was in great shape. I'm going back this weekend so I will have to decide by then if I want to grab it. What does the S or T mean, thanks.

I know about the weight but have never taken off or put on one of the beasts. If I do decide to get it I should only have to do it once. I assume an edelblock carb will fit oo it, maybe?
 
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:15 PM
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'66 'bird manifold should work, not a HR or MR or TP or other exotic.

Read on:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...take-swap.html
(note tips on bypass hose)

More, and click on the links to still more FTE threads:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-manifold.html

One thing about the T bird manifold is that they are said to be a very low manifold to allow hood clearance. That shouldn't make a difference, but you might need a carb spacer to keep your throttle linkage geometry the same as your current manifold.
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:24 AM
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Some good info thanks, think I will go back saturday and see if it's still there. Should be the fe stuff does not go really fast. Should I grab the carb also if it"s in decent shape or would it be better to go with a different carb than stock. I don't plan on any major rebuilting but I do want to get my headers back on once I get a mini starter. I do have dual exhurst 2.5 plan on an x as time permits. Oh carb spacer is no big deal was planing on putting one on anyway. Thanks!
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:26 AM
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If you haven't done this before here are a couple tips. You definitely need a cherry picker to lift a cast iron intake into place. I have done it (once) with muscles when I was young and would never attempt it again. And not to brag but I was a hoss when I was young.
Second thing is cut about 1/2" off the bypass pipe on the water pump side (don't want to mess up an intake, water pumps are easy to come by) This will allow you to install the bypass hose after the intake is bolted down. Trying to slide that hose in while installing the intake is a real ball buster.

I'd go for the aluminum one just to avoid wresting that 77# chunk of iron.
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:47 AM
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1960/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars: The 1st digit of the VIN is the year, the 5th digit is the engine code: 1966 Thunderbird: Z = 390 4V / Q = 428 4V

The 11 digit VIN is stamped on the Warranty Plate, either located on the left door face below the latch, or between the left door hinges on the hinge post.
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 70-360fe
Some good info thanks, think I will go back saturday and see if it's still there. Should be the fe stuff does not go really fast. Should I grab the carb also if it"s in decent shape or would it be better to go with a different carb than stock. I don't plan on any major rebuilting but I do want to get my headers back on once I get a mini starter. I do have dual exhurst 2.5 plan on an x as time permits. Oh carb spacer is no big deal was planing on putting one on anyway. Thanks!
Definitely grab the carb if it is an Autolite 4100... a 1.08 or 1.12 cast into the clockface (driver's side of the bowl) designates its CFM rating. The former is 480 cfm and the latter 600 cfm. I'll pay ya up to $50 for a decent one (no missing parts and minimal rust). PM me if you succeed.
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:23 PM
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intake manifold

I started working in my dad's auto shop at 14 and have wresteled my share of thes 80 # anchors. A cherry picker is the best way. The aluminum ones are much easier to install. The original carbureator is a real plus if it is still there, it is one of the easiest to rebuild, however the NAPA kit does not include the secondary diaphram , I just rebuilt one last week. Another tip on the bypass hose, I add 2 more hose clamps in the center to reinforce the hose, you just have not lived until you have had the pleasure of replacing one of those on a hot engine! If the pipe is eroded , use a piece of !/2" copper water pipe to replace it, it is a perfect press fit.
Kenny Nunez
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:30 PM
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I will grab the carb if still there, wish I could go tomorrow but I have to work. I will post about the carb if still there. Thanks for all the info makes my decision a lot easier.

The manifold should still be there but 4 barrels seem to go quickly. I think some people just grab them without know any thing about them. Good thing is the car was tucked in a back corner so maybe I will get luck. Any other cars/truck that might have a 4 barrel that would work with this intake. Thanks!
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:34 PM
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Look for 64-71 Ford passenger cars - Look at all of 'em. Tbirds, Mustangs, Cougars, Montegos, Comets, Mavericks, Fairlanes.. etc. Any of 'em might have a 4100 installed.

I picked up an Edelbrock Performer 2105 for $150 last weekend - excellent thread holes, beadblasted, and ready to go. These things are HTF around my area for whatever reason. And when I do find them the asking price is typically $200. Btw, It only weighs 23 lbs.

Gonna spray it with high temp clear before the install. 'Should get interesting when it gets FAST's EZ-EFI. I'm hoping at the end of this grand (and relatively expensive) experiment that I can squeeze 22 MPG out of a 360FE.

 
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Look for 64-71 Ford passenger cars - Look at all of 'em. Tbirds, Mustangs, Cougars, Montegos, Comets, Mavericks, Fairlanes.. etc. Any of 'em might have a 4100 installed.

I picked up an Edelbrock Performer 2105 for $150 last weekend - excellent thread holes, beadblasted, and ready to go. These things are HTF around my area for whatever reason. And when I do find them the asking price is typically $200. Btw, It only weighs 23 lbs.

Gonna spray it with high temp clear before the install. 'Should get interesting when it gets FAST's EZ-EFI. I'm hoping at the end of this grand (and relatively expensive) experiment that I can squeeze 22 MPG out of a 360FE.




Around 200.00 is the going price on ebay. There is a swap meet near me saturday but I don't have the time to go. If you get 22mpg out of 360fe is this going to be a secert or are you going to share with other 360 owners. Nice find on the intake.
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 70-360fe
Around 200.00 is the going price on ebay. There is a swap meet near me saturday but I don't have the time to go. If you get 22mpg out of 360fe is this going to be a secret or are you going to share with other 360 owners? Nice find on the intake.
I'll let yall in on it. No problem... but this grand experiment ain't gonna be cheap - EZ-EFI, TKO-500, rear gear change, and maybe some aero mods.
 
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
I'll let yall in on it. No problem... but this grand experiment ain't gonna be cheap - EZ-EFI, TKO-500, rear gear change, and maybe some aero mods.
Sounds interesting, good luck with the project.
 


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