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Excursion - King of SUVs 2000 - 2005 Ford Excursion

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Old 05-28-2012, 02:10 AM
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Archtaan's build thread. '10 conversion, mirrors, the works!

Here is a build up of my 04 Excursion. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

Here is the final product.






Well, finally decided to put together a build thread for the old Excursion.

Picked her up as a bone stock 04 Eddie Bauer 4x4 with the 6.0 Powerstroke.





First order of business was lift, wheels, tires and some performance mods. Also added the 05 grill and 2010 tow mirrors.


Started with 35" BFG's on 17" DC1's




6” lift, Bilstiens, 37” Toyos on 17” KMC rims. Also added MileMarker hubs when the ESOF’s failed at the beach ☹





Had to move the bumper forward to clear the 37's.



Total clearance all around now turn to turn and to the stops.








Towing toys home!




Cummins Donor truck....



The 2010 Front End Conversion. – The Saga Begins…..

Got a bit bored with the front end on the Excursion and to stave off the desire to call TC’s and have a 2012 Excursion built I decided to do a 2010 Front end and to top it off try and adapt a 2010 Road Armor winch bumper to the 2004 front frame horns.
Also decided to tackle Bushwacker Pocket Flares front and rear + Power telescope and fold 2010 mirrors and a 2010 rear bumper.

First order of business is ordering parts.

Here is the parts list….. Please do yourself a favor and order them from one of our sponsors. Don’t scrimp on aftermarket sheetmetal. The 2010 stuff requires massaging and tweaking to fit, I could not imagine what aftermarket would be like.
• Hood – Much heavier than the 04 hood.
• Hood striker that mounts to the hood – U shaped
• Hood hinges
• Fenders
• Fender emblems (upper and lower, vent is two piece),
• Cowl panels (L&R, where the windshield wipers are),
• Grill – I went with the Chrome package grill
• Grill supports that bolt to the hood and grill bolts to it (these support the grill from moving horizontally when the hood is down) + hardware
• Hood striker for the latch + hardware
• Headlights (L&R) – you don’t need the header panel.
• Head light plugs to adapt wiring. I just made my own.
• Full front bumper with all the brackets (If you are going with a factory bumper)
• Windshield washer nozzles, and the plastic pins that help affix the grill to the hood.
• Wiper motor – you can modify the earlier one but it’s a pain in my option.
• Bumper
• Hood Hinges
• Hood release
• Secondary hood release cable assembly
• Hood bumpers
• Hood shocks
• Hood retaining bolts (4)
• Shock mounting bolts (2) – the shock attachment ***** are much larger
• Grill bolts, retaining hardware (7)
• Grill bumper (rubber bumpers prevent flexing in the wind)
• Complete set of inner fender retaining hardware (you can reuse some of your old stuff but you need all new push fastners
• 2010 inner fenders (optional) – you can modify the existing ones. Its probably not worth it.
• Misc. Ill add parts as they come to mind


Fenders



2008 Road Armor Stealth bumper with pre-runner guard. Going to add 2 Lightforce Blitz and 2 Light force Lancers w/ IR covers.



Pocket for 4 Piaa lights. Piaa’s are the only ones that will mount without modification




Tear Down begins.

Disconnect BOTH batteries.

Remove Grill, fog lights and wiring connectors, both fenders, bumper, bumper supports, hood, disconnect windshield wiper hoses (The 2010 has em on the hood instead of the cowl), remove wipers, wiper motor, headlights, header panel, all rubber shielding, hood release, hood struts, hood hinges. Tow hooks. Teardown is pretty straight forward.





Sheetmetal install/mockup

Once all the original factory front parts are removed, fit the 2010 fenders on first. You will need to cut the factory mounting tabs on the back side of the fender near the door edge. It’s the middle tap. It gets in the way with the body tabs already there. These tabs push the fender out too far. Also, the horn is behind the passenger fender and will need to be relocated to where the window washer bottle is inside the inner structure, it is too wide for the new fenders. You disconnect the factory wiring harness, relocate it and plug it in. I attached it to the inner fender with a few sheetmetal screws. It’s a tight fit with the washer bottle there but it does fit.



You will need to make a couple of the top fender bolt holes larger to allow more movement/adjustment left/right/front/back. Fit the fender to the door and then go forward. The lower bolt hole stays the same but required ¾" worth of shims. You will need to make one mounting plate/bracket to screw to the fender then the plate will bolt to the truck's mounting tab. The new fenders mount much higher in the front near the cowl support and will require spacers to fit. You also need to trim the factory sheetmetal mounting holes and use larger washers to cover up some of the cutting. I pre-fabbed all the tabs and holes prior to paint.

Here are two pics of the holes. Notice the square holes at both ends are notched.





Miller Diversion Tig welder. I used this to make all the brackets and tabs.



This tab is needed to secure the fender in the centerline. After tigging it in, you need to test fit it and make an adjustment hole. I used a step bit and a dremel to get it right. Large washers are your friend.




This gives you an idea of how much higher the fenders sit

Front near cowl



Rear most vertical bolt



OK, fenders and hood back from paint. Nothing fancy.




Hood, be sure to tape all your edges. Also, run a tap through the bolt holes. The hood is a minimum 2 person job, its twice as heavy as the 04 hood and even worse with the grill and supports on it.



Mount the hood latch. I used loc-tight, but may not be necessary.





Now the Fenders- Don’t mount the grill inserts yet!!!! You need to get your hand in there to tighten the bolts for the custom tab!


This sheet metal screw goes through the top factory bracket to secure the fender to the a pillar area. You mount it by opening the door and coming at it from the side. Pre drill the hole! Don't go crazy and push through and dent your fenders! A really long drill bit helps here a lot!



This is the tab you have to make. This was painted when the fenders were painted at the shop. This is a mock-up pic



Lines are looking pretty! Note the 2-piece fender emblem. It is easy to install and remove without the top piece attached. You have to mount this part after you reach in and tighten down the tab bolt. The fender looses its bow so to speak with this in, it is semi-structural in a way I guess.





You will need to massage the panel into place and probably remove and reinstall it several times to get it right.

You need the vents out to get your hand in there to tighten the bolt.




Here is a backside pic of the Fender Vents.



Since the top part is removable, I plan on getting a custom one made with the Excursion logo. Just need to get around to having it done. I have F250 ones right now, the bottom portions won't stay in securely without the top portion and both are needed to add rigidity to the fender.




Grill, fenders, hood are on. Note- These pics are all pre-paint. I mocked everything up to make sure all the adjustment slots, shims, etc were good to go.

OK, Hood is simple, Bolt it up to the hinges which have the new struts attached. Don’t tighten it all down till after you get the fenders pretty much squared away. I had to shim under the drivers side hinge to get the height right. Once you have all your lines pretty and even, start tightening it all down.

You have to use the 08 struts and you will need the 08 fender strut ball as well since the attachment point is larger. The 04 struts were too weak to hold up the hood since it now has the extra weight of the grill on it. The hinges can be reused.

Grill is easy to install. The grill has vertical tabs that fit into holes in the leading edge of the hood. Snap it in. You will the mount the 7 upper attachment nuts. After that bolt the 2 vertical grill supports using m10 fasteners. Finally install the Hood bumpers and the grill bumpers. Adjust as necessary.



Now the fun begins…..

You will notice in the pic above, the 04 frame horns are in the way of the grill and do not allow the hood to close all the way. They have to go. The 08-10 front frame bends downward in the front and is @ 9” lower than the 04. Not a hard fix. You need a plasma cutter. (A cutoff tool, Oxy/ace torch will work too…)









While the torch is hot, may as well make your clearance cuts for the headlights. Make sure you know what is behind before you cut!!!!

Here is an idea of what has to go





Here you can see another cut needed for headlights. Again, be careful what is behind where you are cutting.



Once the cutting is done, clean up your edges and apply some paint to protect from rust.

The top tab of the headlight will need to be bolted to the core support. Mock it up, drill a hole and attach bolt.




The headlight just pushes into tabs in the fender. I used threaded rod to support the front of the fender to the inner fender since the lights want to push the outside edge of the fender in. If you are using a factory 08 bumper, it will have the needed brackets to attach everything.

Front clip all mounted up less bumpers. Here you can see where the factory frame horns get in the way during mock up and how the headlights bow out the fenders. Prior to threaded rod.





Wiring was pretty easy. Black to Black and Black (one ground is hi/one is low) Blue to low and Red to high beam. The marker bulb and turn signals simply mounted in, no mods required.



After paint and frame horns cut off.



I also pulled all the Trim off as well.

You have to make some mounts to get the front of the fenders to pull back in and line everything back up. I used threaded rod.


Bumper time!

Ok, this sucker is heavy and takes at least 3 people to put into position.






My application required some heavy customizing.

A 12x6 plate of 500 Brinnell armor plate steel was welded vertically flush to the frame horn. Triangulated braces were then cut and welded to the lower blocker bar and frame area. 4 bolt holes were drilled, 3” DOM steel tube spacers were cut and grade 8 hardware was used to mount her all up. I owe you pics. I also pre-mounted the winch and 1 set of the PIAA’s, the other set was back ordered.

Still need to mount the cowl panels and mess with the inner fender liners and the other 2 tabs for the other two light force lights.

The fender liners can be massaged into place with a heat gun. You can see here where they are not attached since they are shorter than the 08 style.


So here is where we are so far. You can see why fender covers are needed.





More to come including 08 Mirrors, Fender Flares and who knows what else…
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Last edited by Stewart_H; 01-19-2014 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:10 AM
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2008-2010 Tow Mirrors to earlier Excursion (Superduty should be exactly the same, but I cannot confirm this.)





Still not complete, more pics are coming. More info in regard to the power fold/extend functions coming since it is not a simple rewire.

Detailed write up down at bottom after pics.

First we need to get the door panels off.

Remove red reflective cover with screwdriver, it just pops off. Here is the lower screw that must be removed



9/32 for 2 door bolts. A 7mm works too, but I couldn’t find mine




Pop the cover off to uncover top bolt. Its snaps in. Pull sharpely but carefully out





Remove panel by pulling straight up the out after disconnecting the electrical connections.






Here are the 4 bolts which retain the mirror, one is under the sticky paper.





7/16 socket needed. Don’t lose bolts down in door!!!!! Mirror pulls straight off. Don’t chafe wires when pulling mirror off.





Outside view, bolt the new mirrors on using existing hardware and new gaskets.




Recon Smoked covers, They are market left and right



To install them you need to remove the factory amber lights. Move mirror lens up and right and you will see this clip



Use screwdriver and push straight back on clip.



Recon light wire set up. Good instructions came with em. The trouble is there are a lot of bulbs and wires to cram in a small hole. Go easy they will all fit.



Factory wire connectors. Twist to undo. Pull bulbs straight out.




Wires connected. Connections replace factory bulb sockets.



Factory turn signal/running light in orange.



Recon Covers installed. They snap back in with a little force.



Drivers side factory wires. Wire colors and pinouts listed below












Instruction write up..


First we need to splice in the 3 main power functions, I used some heat shrink butt connectors but you could solder them. Best case would be to make a quick connector, but that’s for another day. The wire are the same as the old colours. Blue/silver to Blue, Yellow/silver- Yellow, Red/silver - Red and you will have the power adjustment set up. The bad part is using the left to right function will be backwards on the control due to the setup in the new mirrors, there is a fix using relays but I haven’t messed with it yet and I rarely adjust mirrors. Up and down still function as normal.


Now for your other wires. I used some bulk wire, black, red, yellow just so I knew the difference between them all. You can use whatever colors you want. Splice in wire leads for the ground, signal, marker light, and heat. Make sure you use long enough wires, it is cheap so don’t worry about it being a bit long. The signal and marker and heat all need to be in the truck.


I placed the ground on an eyelet connector and used the inside door panel as my grounding surface, you could run it down to a bolt in the cab, but there is a 10mm bolt right by that connector you can slip an eyelet connector onto, just be sure to scuff the paint up under the bolt for a good ground.

Run your other three wires into the cab through the rubber boot, it comes out of the main cab easy and just pull it back a bit so you can straighten it out and slide the wires thru, or use a zip tie or something rigid to tape the wires thru and pass them into the boot.

The marker light wire will go to the Park light switch on the dash, use a Flat blade screw driver and pry up on the switch outer bracket, it will pop right out. Just run the mark light wire to there for now and leave some extra because you need to run the passenger side wire is there to. I spliced them together into a spade connector and put a T-tap on the dark brown wire on the back of the parking switch. There is a white wire going into the same place also, that is the park light lead wire.


The signal light wire will go to the main harness under the dash. Just follow the multifunction switch wiring to the back of the column, you will see tape and a protective covering around the wires, remove this since you need to find the White with Blue tracer (It is for the right front signal positive ) and the light Green with white tracer (It is the left side signal light positive ).

I used T-tap connectors and a male spade to make my connection, with some heat shrink.

Plug your driver’s side signal wire into that wire.

Now the heat wire, you will need a 12V switch source and a switch. I have not done this yet one yet since my switch doesn’t seem to have power. Need to trouble shoot it before hooking it up.

Once all of the wires are run and tied to follow normal harness routes, reinstall the door panel opposite from taking it off after checking to make sure everything works.

Now just repeat for the other side, the colors will be a bit diff but they are posted below.

Remember the passenger side signal, heat, marker wires have to reach the drivers side!

Power Telescope Functions

You will need to get some new switches to make the power fold/ power extend work.



They have to be reverse polarity, momentary on/off/ momentary on.

Switches. One for telescope, one for fold



Power fold, both sides the same
Purple with blue stripe fold out
Purple w/yellow stripe fold in

Power extend, both sides the same
Orange extend out
Orange w/blue stripe retract back

I used a trailer lights 4 way wire to run under the dash to each new mirror, that way at the switches all the wire colors for each function were the same and the wires were in a bundle

Wiring
Drivers side mirror

11 Red Power Mirror 22 Orange/blue Power extend -
10 Yellow Power Mirror 12-21 Empty
09 Blue/silver dots Power Mirror
08 Green Signal light lead +
07 Black Ground
06 Black/white Mirror Heater
05 Brown Marker light lead +
04
03 Purple/blue Power fold +
02 Purple/yellow Power fold -
01 Orange Power extend +

Passenger side mirror mirror

11 Green /silver Power Mirror 22 Orange/blue Power extend -
10 Yellow Power Mirror 12-21 Empty
09 Purple Power Mirror
08 White Signal light lead +
07 Black Ground
06 Black/white Mirror Heater
05 Brown Marker light lead +
04
03 Purple/blue Power fold +
02 Purple/Yellow Power fold -
01 Orange Power extend +

Vehicle Wires Drivers side

Factory 08 Mirror

Green/Purple Black/White
Black Black
Green/white Green/silver
Blue Blue/silver
Yellow Yellow/silver
Red Red/silver
Brown Brown

Orange green, mint green
Vehicle Wires Passenger side

Factory 08 Mirrors

Green Green/silver
Yellow Yellow/silver
Purple Purple/silver
Yellow/Black White
Black Black
Green/purple Black/white
Brown Brown
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:27 AM
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Laying out the Bushwacker Fender Flares. This is an 08-2010 Flare. You would need an up to 05 F250/F350 Superduty Flare for stock Excursion Sheetmetal. The fenders and stone guards where line-x'd. Cost $100.00 locally.

The front is pretty much a bolt on deal. The extra bolts also help keep the inner liner in place.







The rears, oh thats a much different story.....

Since rears are not made for the Excursion, you have to get the Superduty flare and their rear doors are different. Here is the problem.


The flare covers the door and doesn’t fit the rear contour correctly. The answer for me was to vertically trim the flare matching the door line then filling the inside of the pieces with fiberglass since they are hollow.




Had some damage under my cladding behind the rear tire. Used a hammer and dolly to smooth it out and hit it with a coat of undercoating.



Rear Stone Guard installed. These are factory parts.



Finally, I trimmed the flare to match the lower panel contour and the stone guard. I ended up making a vertical cut that matched the door line. Filled the inside of the fenders and line-x the new openings.




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Old 05-28-2012, 02:28 AM
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Wow, very nice conversion!! What is the "accident" you mention at the end of the first post?
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:53 AM
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Here is the write up I did for the HID conversion kit prior to changing to the new front end. I have the kit for the 2010 lights, just haven't gotten around to installing them. Should be the same.


Here is the complete harness kit. Bulbs are 5K’s and came preinstalled on the sockets. All of the connectors are weather pack sealed. The positive and negative terminate in ring connectors. Took about 1 hour to install including taking pics, although it was over two days since I wanted to do some night shots.





Everything was super simple to install. Ground both controllers and hook up the positive. Comes with a pre-installed 30amp fuse. Attach the relay near the drivers side battery. Preassemble the whole harness and plugged in all the connectors prior to installing. It was easier to match up the colors of the wires since some of them get tucked away and it would be harder to line up the connectors in the correct orientation. Most of the connectors are labeled so it was easier.

The only tricky part is you need to re-use your factory light socket lock rings. Remove from existing lights. Slide new light assembly in and install in housing. It is a very tight seal so be ready to make up a few words since there is also very little room to work with the batteries and such in place.

You have to install these three connectors into the drivers side factory light harness to control the new lights. It took a bit of trial and error but you will finally figured out the right combo. Get it wrong and only 1 high beam will come on or both will come on and not turn off.




After figuring out the right combo, install the new connectors into the supplied connector. The spades lock in and the new plug attaches to the Ford harness perfectly.



Now for the back part, I had to run the factory lock retainer from the end of the wiring loom up to the back of the HID housing. Its a tight fit and it will work.

Now place the bulb section in the factory retainer from the front you will have to line up the 3 or 4 notches and it will drop in and twist.

The tricky part is you have to recouple the two parts. Push hard (watch the bulb) and twist it clockwise I believe back to the lock position. (double check that) You will now have a complete unit ready to install in the housing. Before attempting to install in the housing, hook all the wires because the are hard to see when its all said and done.

The new HID bulb fixture is an extremely tight fit. Line the notches back up, push hard and twist clockwise towards the passenger side.



Video of the bulb. It moves position to go from low to high. You can hear the solenoid clicking




HID highs and factory fogs. Note color difference



HID’s


New HID bulbs installed. I used a mothers headlight restoration kit to clean up the lenses as well.

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Old 05-28-2012, 02:56 AM
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Crazy deal man!
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Old 05-28-2012, 03:04 AM
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Tim, I've added a link to this thread in the stickied "Excursion Build-Up & Major Projects Folder" at the top of the forum.

Stewart
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Old 05-28-2012, 03:25 AM
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Car cam came in today. After that plywood incident a few months ago and how close it was to the guy getting away, I figured it was cheap insurance. Who knows who is going to jump on your hood at a crosswalk, reverse into you and say its your fault and such.

Anyhow, its a 16gb recorder with removable microsd. Records 5 minutes and saves the file, over writes old files. Has night vision and motion detection + really good battery life.



Also gauges and new Nav/DVD player head unit installed.

Gauges





At the radio install



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Old 05-28-2012, 07:15 AM
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Great thread Tim and Awesome Excursion. Looking forward to seeing you and your bada$$ Ex at all truck nationals in August.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:59 AM
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Fantastic. Thanks Tim. Great to see all your progress and lessons learned (for the most part) in one location.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:10 AM
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Wow, lots of time, energy, & over all out of the box thinking Tim. It was great to see it last month at the GTG, but appreciate it even more after all of the hard work and dedication you put in to it. Keep up the great work.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:43 AM
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That is an awesome looking excursion and mods If you plan on splicing the wires yourself, I posted a pinout for the 2010 superduty power fold/extend mirrors. Good luck for you & your excursion
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Old 05-28-2012, 01:05 PM
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Damn was hoping you would have a How-To on tosing in the 08-10 Dash setup in the X which I hear is nearly impossible and much easier to just get a front cab of a 08-10 SD and stick it on an X rear. Either way the X looks awesome with the new clip
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Breaker 1-9 View Post
Damn was hoping you would have a How-To on tosing in the 08-10 Dash setup in the X which I hear is nearly impossible and much easier to just get a front cab of a 08-10 SD and stick it on an X rear. Either way the X looks awesome with the new clip
That is a long term plan. I know it will be hard, but it should be doable. I have seen a few 08 dash conversions in F250's so it can't be much more different for the X. Gotta put the Cummins in first though.
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Old 05-28-2012, 02:28 PM
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Great thread Tim, I actually learned something today, thx man
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