I finally got to the point of slinging mud on my panel. Aside from the bad wheel wells and mangled quarter it is amazingly straight. I had posted before about rebuilding the quarter and it is very satisfying to get to this point where primer and paint are in sight.




I still have quite a bit of sanding and spot putty to do but it's getting there

 

It's looking good over there Gary! What color are you going with?

Ben in Austin

 

I'm thinking cream with red fenders.

 

Hey that would be a cool color combo!
I don't see how you guys are able to get that spot putty crap to work!
It always wants to roll out on me instead of feather out.

 

First, use a catalyzed spot putty such as Eurosoft, NOT the thick primer stuff that comes in a tube.
Second, vacuum (preferred, use a shop vac with a brush attachment) or air gun (be sure the line is dry and oil free) the entire surface to remove all sanding dust.
Third, Wipe the entire area generously with a clean rag and surface prep solvent.
Fourth, allow the area to evaporate completely until solvent smell disappears.

When applying the putty make sure you apply a very thin bonding coat vigorously pressed into the surface, there should be no build up, it should just darken the main filler color, then before it kicks go over it again with your top coat. Remember this is NOT meant to fill more than nicks, scratches and pinholes, should not be over 1/32" thick. Most all of it should end up sanded off with 80 grit on a long board, finished with 120 grit and no pressure on the board. Apply a guide coat (very thin dusting) of rattle can primer over the surface and sand off with 180 grit on the board. If there are any places where the sanding leaves the guide coat, I mark it with a circle of permanent marker a couple inches around it, use a 1/2 sheet of 180 grit folded into a pad to hand sand off the primer, Then dust as above being sure to not wash off my line with the prep sol, and apply another coat of surfacer putty feathered out past my line, and resand with the long board.

Be sure to use a longboard, not a small block or hand sanding pad to sand out the surfacer putty. The proper way to use a longboard is to hold it against the panel so the board centerline is parallel to the long dimension of the panel or to the ground, BUT move it by pushing with a 45* stroke. DO NOT use any more pressure than necessary to keep the paper in contact with the surface. It WILL NOT sand any faster using a heavy pressure, that will just cause ripples and flat spots and clogs the paper. Once you have sanded the entire surface with diagonal strokes say from bottom to the right, reverse stroke direction (not the longboard position) and resand the panel in a bottom to left 45* stroke pattern.

 

Man, AX... A lot of time I wished you lived out here so I can get some first hand experience.

Great tips in the write up... I still don't know if I am going to let my nuts hang and try and to the finish work on my truck or just bite the bullet and pay someone.

After seeing your work Gdub, it makes me easier to try it out but then not sure. Good thing I still have a lot of frame work to go before I get to that point.

 

Hi Ax, Thanks! I first used the cheap red oxide stuff from walmart or wherever, then stepped up to the 3M green stuff. I think my problem may have been wet sanding before priming... gotta learn somehow..I then went to using primer surfacer and was alot happier with using that. I can't wait to start some body work! I havent done any since '95...There has got to be some improvements since then? I have seen on TV that there is filler in a caulking tube. Whats that like?

 

I started playing with it when I was in high school. No one on the internet then!
I got a trunk lid from the junk yard and went to town! Its not expensive to try it out! and when you are done you just have to own it! If you aren't worried too much about how perfect it is, then why not! You will be surprised at what you can do if you just give it a shot. Worst thing is, you be out $20 bucks or heck maybe even $50. compared to a body shop thats nothing.

 

Body work is not difficult. There are a few tips and tricks but mostly you need patience and a critical eye. Don't use bondo the try to cover up rust or deep dents, use the proper tools (most are not expensive, can be made and/or adapted) and don't try to cut corners.

I am more than willing to come to you if my transportation and expenses are covered, or you can come here for hands on teaching.

 

I would respectfully request the definition of "transportation and expenses"
also I wouldn't like your hands on....You ain't my type...
Would the blue paint on your face still be on? That may draw attention around here.

 

T&e: RT air, place to take care of my abulations, sleep, 3 squares, maybe a night on the town tipping some tall ones?, for as long as you can stand to have me around. If you work beside me, I won't charge labor.

Blue paint only if I've just painted blue, otherwise it might be red, green, or yellow!

 

I will discuss this with the finance dept./second part of my username.

Maybe she will approve it.
But will let you know IF she does!

 

Hey Jeff,
You better figure out what abulations are before you get in too deep
over there. I was scared to look it up.

Ben in Austin

 

Ax, good to know. I am sure it is not too hard when the experience is abundant. Good to know that u are willing to help out to that extent. I will keep that in mind for future reference once I get to that point and I figure out what direction to take cheers.

Grub congrats on the progress again.

 

Ben, I did look it up. still scary.couldn't find it! So I guess I will ask.

Ax what are "abulations" ? sounds like an abusive sit-up/ abdominal workout.