I'd like to be able to utilize this tank. Yah, I know, in today's economy, 2 tanks? I bought it used (150 utility) and the previous owner had it used. He never ever used the rear smaller fuel tank. He said its probably very bad fuel that's in there if any. Instead of turning the switch, is there an easy way to remove the fuel that's in there? Or should I just try it first (will old fuel ruin the engine??) or just add some fuel in there to mix it up with the old stuff?

 

Remove the fuel filter and put a catch basin under the open line from the tanks, switch to the rear tank and put a jumper in the EEC test connector to run the pump continuously, turn the key on and empty the rear tank.. assuming the pump works. Flush the tank with fresh gas and some fuel system cleaner and put a new filter on, and then top it up and you should be good. If the pump doesn't run or it does but doesn't produce a solid flow you're gonna have to drop the tank and clean it out and maybe replace the fuel delivery module.

 

Dang that's great info!!! I'll read up on taking the fuel filter off (probably needs replacing anyway) and what an EEC test connector is. I'm not up to all the lingo but I'm learning slowly!! I can do this.

 

I am going through that problem right now. The previous owner never used the rear tank, yet it was full of gas. I tried running it out by switching to the rear tank. That did not last long, as the fuel pump quit. I siphoned the gas out. It was brown and stunk like paint thinner. When I took the tank off to replace the the pump, I discovered about 1/4 inch coating of lacquer inside the tank and the pump was covered in it. Needless to say I've had to replace everything back there. WARNING: If you replace the rear tank with a 38 gallon replacement, be advised no one makes a fuel pump for it.

 

the 38g replacement tank uses stock 19g sender an pump, you extend 19g sender to fit 38g tank.

 

That would not work on any of the pump/sending units I could find. The unit has steel tubing and the extension kit was copper. Also the sending unit did not really have a place to splice because of the layout of the pump motor and sending unit. Because of the layout, rubber hose extensions were out of the question ( not to mention you interrupt the electrical continuity). I had to get a unit designed for another tank. The unit had multiple bends and was longer because of bends. I heated and bent the tubes the way I needed them to go. It worked out quite well.

 

BoilerBill, would there have been another option as cleaning it out? I don't have a garage, just a carport and I can't do any types of wrenching in my community. Just wondering if you could have put some type cleaner in there to thin that stuff out and flush it out? That would be too much gutting for me to do at a friend's garage.

 

@Conaski, I'm not really sure how "to jumper the EEC connector". You have any links or maybe even a simple Microsoft Paint drawing on how to do that? (Tip: I get my kid to do all that Microsoft Paint drawings for me if I need to )

 

The EEC test connector is under the hood on the drivers side inner fender, Ground pin 6(fuel pump) turn the key to run and the pump should run continuously.

 

That's a pretty good drawing bro!

Gonna have to save this on my Evernote.

 

That's not my drawing... pulled the pic from a very usefull resource... Fuel Injection Technical Library

 

Doublebutted, I am working on it in my yard (the pic on my posts is right now as I am working on it). I thought about cleaning it out, possibly with some MEK (if you can still get it) but I did not want to take a chance that any contaminant would be left behind (you cannot see the entire tanks insides no matter how you look at it). I also thought it would be more work in the long run. However, I believe my case is probably an extreme one, yours may not be as bad. Open the fuel cap and take a whiff of the fumes coming out, if it smells like strong paint thinner or different from the usual smell, you may want to look inside the tank. I was also able to siphon the old gas out with a manual marine fuel siphon pump (the kind with a rubber bulb in the line). If you can get that to work for you, you will be able to see for sure the condition of the gas in that tank.

 

Doublebutted, I thought my posts had a picture on it. I guess not.

 

Good tip! I'll open it up and take a whiff.

 

When you jumper the EEC it runs all 3 fuel pumps at the same time. There is a low psi pump in each tank and a hi psi pump on the left side frame member. Between the tank pumps and the hi psi pump is a tank selection valve. That selector valve works off of pressure from the low psi pumps in the tanks. In other words when you flip the switch on the dash the tank/pump you select switches the vale over. (Eg: Turning on the back tank cuts power to the front pump and fires up the back pump. The psi from that pump is what actually causes the selector valve to switch). Which ever pump is on will cause the valve to switch to it. It is all done by fuel psi alone, there is no electrical connection at all to this valve. Therefore I am not sure jumping the EEC will work because the selector valve will be receiving psi from both tank pumps.