Lauren, I've been thinking along the same line. Also been looking at the best way to lock access to the landing gear so that the trailer cannot be raised or lowered. I do like your idea also.

 

Lauren, I have considered a similar approach, but I really didn't want to weld to the Goosebox, but that's probably the only way. Your idea is a good one. What about using a short piece of hardened hi tensile 5/16 chain, weld the end to a 2 5/16 ball, then weld one chain loop to the side of the GB, and padlock them together where the chain is to short to extract the ball without unlocking it. The ball with short chain and padlock could be tossed in storage except when in use. Just an idea. If I do this, (and it works) I'll post a picture. I would really like to be able to lock the side compartment with the batteries and level-up controls more securely than with the stupid chincey rv lock that half the world has a key to.

 

You may have a better idea there involving less chain dg53 so I will look at that option too. I hope they will be done the repairs on my fiver this week and I will then pick it up and study the Goose Box in more detail to determine an effective way to secure the Goose Box. I use mine a lot to live in on various construction projects throughout the year so I am parked in some pretty remote areas and would like to have it more secure.

As far as your jack access door, put a hasp with a different lock on the outside. I go to a marine store whenever I adding stuff to the exterior of the trailer because they usually have nice stuff in stainless steel so it won't leave a stain on the exterior of your trailer.

Regards,

Lauren

 

Well, yesterday was a nice day; sunny with high around 60 so I got outside and did a few things. I actually laid on the driveway and stared up at the Goosebox for a while..lol. But I came up with an idea that does not use a 2 5/16 ball, but just uses a piece of strap across the bottom of the hitch opening. This will close off the hitch opening.
So, if you look at the GB from the bottom, there is a protruding tab on the same side as the lock lever. I took a 9" length of 2" strap about 3/16" or less, and bent a U at one end about 1" from the end. This U will fit on that tab and then bend the strap to conform to the bottom of the hitch. I will weld another tab on the opposite side of the hitch from the forged tab with a hole in it to accept a lock. When you look at the end of the strap with the bent U, one side of the U will need to be welded closed so that it cannot be forced off of the forged tab. This description probably doesn't make a lick of sense, and my metal fabrication/welding abilities are minimal, but it appears that it will work. When I finish it and get it painted, I'll take a picture and post it. Right now it looks like crap.

 

Sounds like a good solution dg53. I will study my Goosebox and see if I can do the same. Frankly for the price of the Goosebox I think Reese should include a locking plate given that standard after market locking devices won't work.

Regards,

Lauren