I know that I have seen this recently but cannot find it with a search....

I need the cam out of my original 352 and am not sure how to get it out. I put a 3.5" 7/16 bolt in to get plenty to hang onto but am not sure how to get it free of its bore?

What do you all do to convince a cam to leave its block?

 

If you put the timing sprocket (gear?) back on and use that to turn the cam you can probably work it out. Push it in where it turns freely and pull gently while you turn the cam. Don't pull so hard that it seizes up. If its really stubborn, use some penetrating oil.

 

I don't mean to be jackhole but the lifters/pushrods are out and the dizzy removed, right?

Can't tell anything from yer pics other than yep, that's a camshaft.

 

Never knew you to be a jackhole.... Good question.

Yes they are. Haven't tried rotating with gear on as mavsprint mentioned but will tomorrow.

 

If nothing else works, you can pop the plug out of the back of the block and beat the cam out with a hammer and a big punch.

Just make sure there isn't anything metal stuck in there that's holding it up before you try it.

Sam

 

How do you pop out the cam plug with the cam in place? Forgive the noob question. Seems it should come out if the cam is already out....

Seriously don't think there is anything left in the motor to hang it up.... Far as I know everything is out. Just the cam and crank/rods/pistons left....

And a load of grunge...

 

Are you worried about saving any of it? If not I would just drill a hole into the cam plug and use that to pop it out with a screwdriver.

Sam

 

If you're replacing the the cam bearings you can use a slide-hammer to lightly persuade it

 

Went to borrow one last eve... it looked HUGE and I decided I would wait and try other methods first. Still haven't been out in the garage to try. Too much paperwork for day job.....

Ugh!!!

 

There are 4 oil drain back holes right over the cam, use a large screwdriver to push against the lobes, it won't take much to move it.

 

Used this method exactly. It allowed the cam to pop free of it's original position in the case but it was difficult to line up bearings to continue out. Once it DID line up it would stick tightly in subsequent bearing spots. I ended up popping the cam plug out as the posterior section was clear and I had access with a long punch, and then I slid a dowel through the engine stand into the cam plug hole and beat the cam out with a hammer....

 

Just as an afterthought. To remove a sheetmetal plug(like the rear cam plug), get yourself a self tapping screw and run it in a few turns. Then either pry on it with a big screwdriver or use a slidehammer to pop it out.

Since you are doing a total rebuild, destroying the cam/cam bearings is not an issue. But if you needed to save any parts, you would need to be very ginger with with it.

BTW, now you can see that hole I was describing in the other post. Look inside and you'll see the drivers side lifter galley plug.

 

JFreightrain,

I actually got called back to work last night as the cam came free but I will be looking for the galley plug today.

Agreed, I could have pulled the plug with a screw but saw easy access with the cam out 6-7 inches already. I can't imagine ever being successful attempting my original idea of a "simple cam swap" to start with. That thing stuck at every cam journal, and I don't mean it kind of hesitated..... It stuck fast, and I took everything out of the block to give myself full access too.... The edges of the cam's bearing surface were very sharp and I even took a core sample of (I think) the middle bearing surface. I know it was lined up but it stuck in there and wouldn't budge. Had the motor not been completely apart I'd a left shavings in there that would have ruined my (already dying though I didn't know it) engine.

 

so I take your going the full rebuild route now?
you definitely want to replace those cam bearings if you took a "core sample" of one .
if you are going to have a shop do the machine work have them install the cam bearings , it takes a special tool ($200.00) and is a little tricky to do

 

If you have the block hot tanked, that will remove the bearings. Then just have the shop replace them. It's not a job for the first timer.

I assume you'll be having it bored .030 over and new freeze plugs installed. Most "quality" shops will assume you want all that done on a rebuild.