i am trying to remove the pin bolt that holds the clutch, and brake pedal on my 55 f100. I have had no success with soaking it with wd40 and trying to leverage it out. someone suggested heating up the surrounding area with a torch and then it may come out. the only problem is the gas tank is near by. can anyone suggest any tips. And steps to use a torch. I have never done this before.

Jerry

 

Jerry
I'm confused on the bolt that is torturing you. Any pics you can share?

DW

 

You could try to use the old homemade penetrating oil that I use . 1 part acetone:1 part
ATF ,the stuff is amazing . As for heating just use a propane plumbing/utility torch with MAP gas (yellow)bottle heating the components that the pin/bolt are housed in ,direct flame away from gas tank . It does not take long to apply enough heat for expansion to occur . Work outside have fire extinguisher handy say short prayer .Oh yeah send picture .

 

Are you referring to the roller pin at the end of the shaft nearest the transmission? If so you need a rounded metal punch. With a good punch and half pound sledge it will move.





Or are you you referring to the other end by the clutch pedal? That bolt is usually a pain. If you remove the roller pin then the whole assembly will slide out. PB Blaster or CRC Freeze off works best.

 

Try using a heat gun if you are afraid of open flame .Make sure the drive punch is the same dia. as the pin or mushrooming will occur then you will be ( you know )

 

Sorry have no pictures of the bolt. I am at work now. The bolt I am talking about is on the outboard side of clutch pedal on the driver side. It holds the shaft that the clutch and brake pedal pivot on. The bolt is notched on the side and threaded on one end.

I have tried penetrating oil. I used a breaker bar and tried to push down on the bolt and nothing happened. I also tried a c clamp on the thread side and a small metal pipe so the bolt can go thru on the bottom. The trick is the clutch pedal moves while you are trying to do all this. And you cant get a punch to hit it.

I will probably have to use a torch and heat it up and then have my friend hit the bolt. So if I am hearing you all correctly I have to heat up the bolt and surrounding area and then try to hit the bolt. I will just tell my friend pizza and beer after we get the bolt out .

jerry

 

That pin is tapered! It will only go one way. The threaded stub is for a nut to be tightened up and it will extract the pin. If you have hammered on the nut end you have driven the pin in further thus making it tighter. If the threaded end is mushroomed, use a punch of appropriate size and drive it from the other end. You will need to support the shaft with a heavy piece of steel or the like otherwise no energy will be transferred into the pin to make it move. This is called "bucking". On my '52 the pin would drive downward. You may have to take the pivot assembly out to remove the pin. I don't know how they did it in your '55.

 

WD40 is not a penetrating oil, it's not a good at anything oil (mostly kerosene)! Use Liquid Wrench, Pblaster or the homemade mix above. soak any stubborn fasteners liberally each day for 2 or 3 days.

 

Penetrating oil is useless for really stuck stuff, heat is #1. The quicker you heat up the metal around the pin, the better, so if you have an oxy-acet torch and a small tip, that will do more good than propane. You want just the surrounding metal to heat up, once the pin starts to heat, there's no advantage.

Can you take the whole assembly off the frame?

AX -- WD40 is mostly fish oil, that's why it blocks water and smells

 

Their Material Safety Data Sheet says it's made with petroleum base oil. Just sayin'

 

Maybe the fish for the oil came from where the Exon Valdez spill was. .

 

Yes, a very light machine type oil, between light oil and kerosene with solvents.

Before he passed my father lived in a retirement community where a rumor started that WD40 would penetrate the skin and "lube" arthritic joints!
The residents were buying it by the case, they all smelled like a refinery!
The solvents will irritate the skin producing a warming effect like some of the over the counter meds, so they thought it was helping.

 

I stand corrected. There was a big write-up on the history of it linked on the HAMB, I can't find it now, but it claimed the "inventor" of it worked in a shipyard and was using fish oil to rust-proof stuff. At any rate, it's pretty useless to loosen stuff.

 

WD-40 was developed in San Diego by an aircraft engineer. It was developed to displace water, hence it was a rust preventative. WD stands for "water displacement" and 40 was the final formula he developed. If I remember he worked for Convair (Consolidated Vultee) back in the '60s.

I don't know what oil is used in his formula but it sure smells good. When I was first married, early '60s, I used some at work and when I got hope my new bride thought it was someone elses purfume! It took a trip back down to the shop to get some so I could demonstrate. It wasn't funny at the time but it is now.

 

Ok i have tried everything. pb blaster wd40 torch sledge hammer and nothing works i cant get a good angle to use a punch. so how about i drill it out from the bottom. if they give me a new shaft i figure its the only way out. what do you guys think?


jerry