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I would find a 10W30 that still has a high ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) content. Prepressurize the oil system like 69cj said. Once you start it, it's important to bring the idle up to 2500 RPM and keep it there for about 20 minutes. Vary the RPM occasionally but don't let it go below 2500RPM.
Check for any leaks and don't shut it down unless you have to.
Once the 20 minutes have passed drop the idle down to 1200-1500 RPM for another 10 minutes then set the idle to specs.
Once you're satisfied everything is okay, change the oil and filter, again use an oil with high ZDDP content.
All of this is to be sure the cam is properly broke in. It's important to keep using this type of oil in flat tappet engines or else you lifters could look this in short order.
You can use the Lucas break in additive, it adds ZDDP.
Once you have primed it and started it, warm it up, and take it out and beat on it really hard. You need high compression pressure to spread the rings into the walls of the cylinder, and you get this by a series of hard runs from standing start to max speed, then back down to a stop and do it again. Do that for about 50 miles, then change the oil and filter, and drive it hard frequently for the next 1,000 miles.
If you don't you run the risk that the oil glazes on to the cylinders and you never get the rings to seat. The cross thatching that was put in the engine in the machining is mean to be worn in by the rings to get maximum seal, glazing prevents this.
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