Firestone R4 Tech Hybrid Air-Over-Leaf Rear Suspension
#1
Firestone R4 Tech Hybrid Air-Over-Leaf Rear Suspension
Really surprised at how little is mentioned about this kit.
This is Sanluis Rassini and Firestone's hybrid rear air suspension kit.
I just receive my kit, 7 packages and some heavy boxes.
I will be posting some follow up here but will not be going into detailed installation, the videos that are already online should suffice.
Except for the packaging it looks to be a solid well made kit.
I will probably be swapping out the Firestone supplied air kit (tank and compressor) for something a bit bigger in air volume and pressure capacity.
The supplied kit has a 150 PSI compressor with a 30% duty cycle.
Not sure of the tank size yet but I am looking to have 200 PSI capacity.
And a decent enough volume for air horns.
200 PSI will give me cut in and cut out pressures I need to pump up my trailer tires. I run them at 115-125 depending on the load. 150 PSI systems cut in too low to be of much use for me. I see a Viair 400 series in my future.
Will probably run two pressure relays. A 150 cut off for 99% of the time a 200 PSI cut out for the times I need to pump the tires.
Stay tuned....................
Since I dug this up for another forum, here is a link to my MOR/ryde rear spring shackle replacement.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-hangers.html
This is Sanluis Rassini and Firestone's hybrid rear air suspension kit.
I just receive my kit, 7 packages and some heavy boxes.
I will be posting some follow up here but will not be going into detailed installation, the videos that are already online should suffice.
Except for the packaging it looks to be a solid well made kit.
I will probably be swapping out the Firestone supplied air kit (tank and compressor) for something a bit bigger in air volume and pressure capacity.
The supplied kit has a 150 PSI compressor with a 30% duty cycle.
Not sure of the tank size yet but I am looking to have 200 PSI capacity.
And a decent enough volume for air horns.
200 PSI will give me cut in and cut out pressures I need to pump up my trailer tires. I run them at 115-125 depending on the load. 150 PSI systems cut in too low to be of much use for me. I see a Viair 400 series in my future.
Will probably run two pressure relays. A 150 cut off for 99% of the time a 200 PSI cut out for the times I need to pump the tires.
Stay tuned....................
Since I dug this up for another forum, here is a link to my MOR/ryde rear spring shackle replacement.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-hangers.html
#2
Goal with this kit:
In addition I will probably change the front shocks and add a steering stabilizer.
My truck sits 1 or 2 inches above level unloaded. With the trailer attached the rear drops to about 3-4" below level but does not contact he overloads.
Since the ride height is adjustable with the R4 kit I hope to be able to set my unloaded height to "level".
The self leveling feature of the kit should then bring my truck back to level when the 5th wheel is hooked up.
And that should minimize the high beam flashes at night when towing.
Here is a video of my trailer hooked up, zero load and retracting the jacks. Probably between 2600-3000 pounds of pin weight. I did not check the pin weight when I did this clip, but have checked it before.
F350_Cyclone hookup.mov - YouTube
In addition I will probably change the front shocks and add a steering stabilizer.
My truck sits 1 or 2 inches above level unloaded. With the trailer attached the rear drops to about 3-4" below level but does not contact he overloads.
Since the ride height is adjustable with the R4 kit I hope to be able to set my unloaded height to "level".
The self leveling feature of the kit should then bring my truck back to level when the 5th wheel is hooked up.
And that should minimize the high beam flashes at night when towing.
Here is a video of my trailer hooked up, zero load and retracting the jacks. Probably between 2600-3000 pounds of pin weight. I did not check the pin weight when I did this clip, but have checked it before.
F350_Cyclone hookup.mov - YouTube
#7
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#9
Taking a break, took about 3 hours just to get the old springs out.
1 3/16" nuts on the hanger bolts - with loctite! That takes a 3/4" socket, 3' breaker bar and a 5' pipe to get enough leverage laying on the ground. Defiantly a "hoist the truck" job.
And the Titan tank makes access a little more difficult.
I also have MOR/ride rear spring hangers. That adds to the difficulty. Had to cut a jounce bumper off with a sawzall.
Next, try and piece all the puzzle pieces together.
1 3/16" nuts on the hanger bolts - with loctite! That takes a 3/4" socket, 3' breaker bar and a 5' pipe to get enough leverage laying on the ground. Defiantly a "hoist the truck" job.
And the Titan tank makes access a little more difficult.
I also have MOR/ride rear spring hangers. That adds to the difficulty. Had to cut a jounce bumper off with a sawzall.
Next, try and piece all the puzzle pieces together.
#11
There are a lot of pieces to this puzzle
The directions are fairly clear, the pictures could be better.
I would not recommend this as a solo job, which is how I am doing it. Pulling the bed would make it a whole lot easier.
There is a list of tools in the instructions which is fairly good. But the large bolt for the front hangers can be challenging. I used a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, with a 5 foot pipe.
I also have 2/0 cables running down the side frame rail, these I have to relocate because of the height location valves.
One side done.
The directions are fairly clear, the pictures could be better.
I would not recommend this as a solo job, which is how I am doing it. Pulling the bed would make it a whole lot easier.
There is a list of tools in the instructions which is fairly good. But the large bolt for the front hangers can be challenging. I used a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar, with a 5 foot pipe.
I also have 2/0 cables running down the side frame rail, these I have to relocate because of the height location valves.
One side done.
#12
I put a full airbag suspension on my truck on my own with no hoist,it was time consuming,i too had to drop my fuel tank to be able to do the bolts up on the inside of the chassis,then 6 months later after problem after problem i took it all off and put my springs back on ..
The kit i used was from airbagit.com which was a headache,but the ride was'nt too bad,better than leaf springs..
The kit i used was from airbagit.com which was a headache,but the ride was'nt too bad,better than leaf springs..
#13
The tank does not have to be removed. I just had to "push" it a bit.
The front spring hanger has the nut on the inside. I used a 1 3/16 combo wrench, which wedges against the frame. To keep there I used a 1 3/16 socket and spacer wedged between the tank and wrench.
The add on brackets are well engineered and attach without moving the tank.
What i had read about the airbagit kits steered me away from that concept.
The R4 is a nice concept.
Have a camping buddy on the heartland forum who installed his yesterday, he seems pleased so far.
The front spring hanger has the nut on the inside. I used a 1 3/16 combo wrench, which wedges against the frame. To keep there I used a 1 3/16 socket and spacer wedged between the tank and wrench.
The add on brackets are well engineered and attach without moving the tank.
What i had read about the airbagit kits steered me away from that concept.
The R4 is a nice concept.
Have a camping buddy on the heartland forum who installed his yesterday, he seems pleased so far.