Before I get into something wrong... I have finally been able to get one set of rear wheels off. Taken out the three screws that hold the drum in and banged a little on the drum. It appears to be all one piece with the hub??? Can someone tell me if the drum pops off OR is the hub in need of coming off?? Operators manual has no info. ALSO who came up with the lug nut / lug stud combo that bolts the dual wheels on?? Passenger side came off fairly easy once I figured out the double bolt deal. Drivers side has a spacer between the two wheels. Large nut is all tightened back. Just got a set of square 1/2 inch drive socket to hopefully back off the lug stud. Then I'll be at the suicide rim finally! Any way to replace this lug nut deal??? Thanks to all who look and those who know! Need a dummy icon too!

 

I got the following info from Stu McMillan, truckdog62563

"The "stud piloted" mounting system uses an inner and outer nut on the rear duals. I'll post pictures below that show the set of nuts that you'll find on your truck. You must also know that the studs are right hand thread on the right side (passenger), and left hand thread on the left side (driver). The studs will have "L" and "R" molded into the ends, and the nuts will have these letters stamped into them. Also be aware that the nuts are on there with about 450 to 500 pounds of torque."

 

OMG! No where in the owners manual or repair manual have I come across that VERY helpful tidbit. I can say I have fully tightened the drivers side. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

 

The drums do indeed come off, first you have to make sure the shoes are backed off. I had one that was scored so bad it took me several hours of banging and prying to get it off. Now the bad news, you probably won't be able to find anyone to turn the drums and replacements are not out there.

BTW, a good investment would be a Budd socket, which is a combo for both the lug nut and the Cone. I got mine at NAPA.

 

To add an answer on the history, the Budd Company pioneered the system in the late 1920s and it has remained in use, unchanged, to the present day. Stu

 

You mentioned that you "Taken out the three screws that hold the drum in and banged a little on the drum."

Can you tell me what you did to get the three screws loose? I've got a 1950 F6 truck I'm working on and I'm having troubles getting those litte buggars to crack loose from the rust.

What tools did you use and did you use heat on the drum to help break the rust?

 

just liberal use of penetrating oil. I used a large, well fitting screw driver and an adjustable wrench on the screw driver. I did not have to use heat.

 

That is a great looking avatar! Is that your truck?

 

Yes and thank you, that's RedFord, like Robert. It will remain stock as much as possible. Getting 6 new shoes this week finally, after much help from Stu M.

 

I tried Big Screw Drivers with a Crescent Wrench, I tried an Impact Driver, I tried torching with heat and I finally said...."drill it" as no profanity is allowed in these threads....so I did.

I've just gotten one off this evening and luckily didn't damage any threads in the process. I center punched, drilled small and then progressively bigger until I could chisel and torque what was left out of the holes.

As a side, have any of you removed the axle and the 3" nut inside the hub? I was wondering if the drum assembly would just pull off that way and circumventing the need to get those 3 flathead screws out of the drum?

 

About removing the hub: The rear wheel seals are rare and hard to come by for a reasonable price.

 

Stu is definitely Da Man!

Post some pics of that beauty! RedFord indeed!

 

As I'm a novice at this sort of thing, I think I'll stick with just trying to get Dexter road worthy for starters, therefore, I'll pass on adding to stress to my wife's life for now....thanks though.

You mention the "seals" on the axle hub. Are you referring to the outer gasket that the 10 or so bolts anchor through....or are you talking deeper in the axle housing theres another "seal" that I'm not aware of.

I haven't seen a schematic of this part of the truck so I'm drivin a bit blind when it comes to the finer details on Dexter's rear-end.

 

The seal is labeled 1175 in this diagram:



The common part number is 5751 and looks like this:

 

First off....thanks for taking the time to upload those images for me.

Can you share your source? Is it the Shop Manual for F1-F8 Ford Trucks by chance. Thats next on my list of purchases.

Awesome schematic...very enlightening!!

I will tread cautiously while playing with Dexter's rear-end after seeing this detail.

Being new to this Forum, can you coach me on how to insert a picture into my replys or posts. I see the Insert Image icon, but it comes up with URL:// but my pictures are on my hard-drive and I'm not certain how to get them into the "reply" using the URL function?