For someone that has never done it before, you sure talk an awful lot

 

Buddy has one in Leominster ... PM me Ill help you if you help do mine with me ... Ill call my buddy in the mean while and get a number on the cab. your call. Id not bother with that one but your call..

Hows the radiator support ?

 

man i thought i had a rusty truck. good luck to you sir

 

Good luck watching this one closely as mines about the same. Anyone have a link to a detailed cab swap thread?

 

Just because I don't have a lot of experience doing body work doesn't mean I have not been working on trucks/tractors/trailers my entire life and I don't know how difficult its going to be.

Its just cutting and welding a few pieces of pre-stamped steel, not like I have to fabricate each piece myself.

 

I am going to repair my cab, I appreciate it though! I have all the parts already and if it would stop raining I could have had it fixed today. If you need a second set of hands with your cab let me know. We are probably not that far away from each other, I know its hard to find help sometimes.

 

I'm sure you can get it done.
Mine wasn't much better. (and I have no one to blame but myself, lol)

Just take your time and do your best to square everything up before you weld it in.
The area up by the dimmer switch is a b!#*h because of the heavy reinforcement underneath.

The seatbelt mount is important for safety.
I decided to make a new one.

Weld through primer before and cold galvanizing after are both godsends.

I have to address the passenger side seam this spring.

 

ard, what is cold galvanizing ?

 

some of you are the reason these trucks are dwindling. if you take 2 trucks to make one, over and over again, eventually you have no trucks left! its a little rust. as long as the rest of the truck is fine, its worth it. its welding in prefabbed pieces of steel. if you cant handle that, well then you probably have your oil changes done at jiffy-lube.

 

oh, and OP, i love this. im glad you're fixing the truck up without scrapping it.

 

I'm pretty sure that the Ford f series is the best selling vehicles for every year our trucks were made so I don't think we will run out plus I bet lots of guys get there cabs for swaps from the junk yard

 

Weld Thru primer, Weld Through Primer, Cold Galvanizing Compound,Cold Galvanizing Spray,Cold Galvanizing Paint, Zinc Rich primer

Basically it is a spray of powdered zinc with a binder.
The zinc acts the same as the zinc anode on a boat and saves the steel by sacrificing itself first.
It also develops a passivated shell of zinc oxide to protect itself.



I don't want to deal with the BS at DMV trying to get my truck retitled as a composite vehicle, even if I can get the scrap title from the junkyard.

 

More pics please!!! Lol my cab is the same,are those lmc panels?

 

I will post some more pictures tomorrow night, today it started to pour so I had to stop. I used CCG for the panels. They took forever to get here but they seem like really nice quality.

 

True advice here. I've dealt with black and white on cars for years. Actually never owned anything over. The black drove me nuts because you can see dust on the paint at 15miles, but put a few hours worth of work into it with some hand cloths and wax, and when you pull out of the garage it'll look like a million bucks.

My current DD is white, also driving me nuts haha. I hadn't washed it in about 4 mos. Pollen, road salt, spent a weekend driving around dirt roads hunting with rain. And then someone threw a cup of black coffee at the back hatch in anger. 9 hours I worked with the car. The paint is much smoother to the touch. But, more than 10ft away the only place you can tell a difference is the trim and chrome.

CLiffs: flat black will only get so clean. Will look even dirtier when not clean. White will look the same no matter what. Think about fleet vehicles: what color are they?