I have the stock 2G alternator setup in my truck right now. I have read about people having fire issues with them. My question is should I attempt the swap? The only accessories I have are a Kenwood HU and a 350Watt amp going to a sub. I do notice the charge is a little low and fluctuates a pinch when the amp is on. I have a 92 F150 with a 5.8. If I do the swap what vehicles can I get an alternator from? And what else do I need? I would like to go for a 130A if I can but 95A will be ok with me.

*Edit: Did some research online and checked the local Pick-n-Pull and there are 40 cars in the yard that have the 130A alternator I need. What else do I need? Wiring adapter? New power wire?

 

You'll need the charge wiring from the alternator to the fender solenoid.
If the car you pull from doesn't have a fuse & holder, you need to get one.
You'll only be using the green/red wire from your existing 2G regulator harness.
You'll need to clearance the aluminum casting to fit the 148mm housing of the 130A 3g alternator.
All the instructions are on Fuel Injection Technical Library
Hope this helps.

EDIT: http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=75

 

Do the swap. Its worth it. I just put a 3G 130amp alternator on my 89 f150 not too long ago.

 

well worth the time to do the swap.

 

yup.do the swap.the 3g is so far advanced over the old 2g's, it's silly not to upgrade, since they're a dime a dozen in local yards.

 

Ok well I think im gonna go ahead and do the swap. Ill source the alternator next weekend. Only $24 at the local Pick-n-Pull. I think I will go with the alternator charge cable from RJM that has the inline fuse already. What do i need to do for the plugs? Could someone who has done the swap possibly take a picture of the wiring that goes into the plugs on their 3G? Better yet, on a 5.8? Thanks

 

Excellent write-up with photos here: Crazed 3G install (56k be very aware) - FSB Forums

 

The 3G wiring is the same for the 5.0 and 5.8.

You just take your small 2G plug, its the regulator plug, Yellow wire goes to the output post, white wire goes to the small plug (stator) and leave the green/red wire alone.

Then you run your charging wire from the output post on the alt, to the batery or stater solenoid.

Both of the link provided above tell you all you need to know.

 

Ok now I understand. I know what I need now and how to install it. The hunt for an alternator begins! Ill keep you guys updated.

 

Just be sure to get the right (7" c-c) mounting.
I know the 3.0 V6 has these, because I use the larger 8.25" ear on my V-belt setup and needed to find one for a 3.8l Taurus.

If you know someone that has a 3/8-16 Helicoil kit, it makes it a lot easier to tension the alternator.
Because you only need one wrench to tighten and can then use your other hand to hold the tension.

 

Yeah I did some research to find the cars I can get the alternator from and the local yard has 40 cars in the yard that came with them. Now to see if any of them are left.

 

Okay,
I didn't know if you just searched for ones with 3G 130A alternators.
From your first post I didn't realize you understood there were three different mounting styles of 3G's.

 

Ok so I guess I have one more question. Im going to order this harness for the swap:
RJM Injection Tech — 3G Alternator Harness
Now do I simply install the connector provided that isn't already attatched to the harness onto a wire and connect that to the starter relay? Im assuming that is what I would do.

 

No.
The regulator plug is not the one that fails...
and you can use your existing 2G regulator plug, they are the same.

EDIT: To use Ryan's regulator harness you cut the existing green/red wire in your truck and crimp on the supplied Weatherpak connector.
Then plug his harness into the connector.

What you need is a heavy gauge, fused, charged cable like this offering.
RJM Injection Tech — Alternator Charge Cable Kit

Or, just get the charge cable and fuse from the donor car.

 

No im gonna order that too but I want to just have the pre-fabbed harness to make it plug and play.