Found the leak that has been dumping loads of oil on the ground.
I cleaned it all up and was prepared to remove the turbo and pedestal thinking it was probably one of them leaking or a leaking back pressure valve. I fired it up one more time and saw this.



Removing the fitting I saw that the sealing ring was fubar.



I have a message in to Clay to see about getting replacements but was hoping there was something I could do before then.

Is this supposed to be a regular o-ring or a flat circular gasket? If it's an o-ring I have a selection of them and might find one that fits. Only thing is that I don't seem to see an accepting groove that would retain an o-ring and keep it from blowing out laterally.

 

It's an o-ring. Just be careful to avoid over tightening.

 

Do you have your stock oil rail plugs?

 

Like the plugs on the HPOP, those threads should first be clean and spotless, then have some Loctite 680 on them before screwing into the head.

I'm convinced that the LocTite is what actually does the sealing.

Pop

 

Yes all those fittings or plugs should be loctite'ed.

 

Hey Pop, haven't talked in a while.
I didn't get any 680 with my kit and don't remember getting new orings either, I think I used the old ones from the plugs.
I'm looking at it and I'm pretty sure that a regular round oring wouldn't do any good there with the head surface being flat. Seems it would need a flat gasket under compression as the fitting screws down.
As for getting the threads clean and spotless. No problems doing that with the fitting but the female threads in the head, there's a lot of oil held in there it seems and it brims right to the edge. Would I have to suck oil out of there before shooting some brake clean at the threads?

 

A syringe (or turkey baster) and Q-Tips (and brake cleaner) might be your friends.

Do NOT tighten the HPX fitting after the LocTite sets up, as it will break the thread sealant.

You've got about a half-hour of work time, but I wouldn't push that.

Then, let it set up completely, which takes a few hours to get solid enough to resist the HPOP pressures.

Pop

 

I have a Pela Oil extractor that should make quick work of it. Want to be sure I have a gasket first (If needed) before I go locktiting them in there without one.

 

I am aware of the critical nature of Loctite 680 on the HPOP plug, but this is the first I'd heard of it being needed on the HPX. I followed these instructions when I installed my HPX a couple years ago:

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...structions.pdf

 

You can get a new o-ring locally. Just ask for an AS568-905 V-90 (viton 90) O-ring. Most of the local hydraulic shops will most likely have it. You can get away with a V-75, just order the right one from Clay or Bob for long term.

 

However, if you have the same luck I did, you may never need the -905 at all.

I'm still firmly convinced that the LocTite does all the work, and the O-ring is just along for the ride.

For my "luck", see:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...fferently.html

Pop

 

I think the reason for the loctite on the HPOP is because the housing is aluminum and there aren't that many threads, so you can't torque the fittings sufficiently without risking stripping the threads in the pump. Therefore, the need for the loctite.

You don't have that problem in the head. Not saying you can't do it, but really there is no need IMO.

 

ANY fitting that doesn't use a flared seal (like a brake or tranny line) should have some sort of sealant used on it. I used red loctite (680) on all pipe threads, and o-ring sealed fittings.

Like mentioned these particular fittings to the heads are not designed to use an o-ring correctly. Loctite fits every time!

 

Mine leaked like OP also, p/s rail. I just snugged it up a bit more and allz been clean since...1yr+ now.

 

The factory fittings are ORB fittings and are most definitely designed to use o-rings. I would expect any reputable HPX kit to contain ORB fittings as well, I know the one I used does.