So what did you do to your 6.0L today?
Shawn,
Noise insulators. The Superduty trucks, like just about all new vehicles, no longer use a squealer on the pads to warn of impending wearout and instead rely on the fluid level warning from the reservoir. However, all quality pads use a noise insulator on the back of brake pad steelbacks to interrupted the natural harmonic frequency of the brake pad assembly that will be heard as noise. Of the different ways to attach these noise insulators, (and the insulators can cost as much as the friction material and steelback combined on OE pads), nubs can be punched up from the steelback to retain the insulator. These can be left alone to stand proud or spin welded over the insulator.
When these are utilized if the caliper pistons are not retracted far enough back, the calipers don't come out of the residing location easily and often pried out. This results in the phenolic pistons getting chipped or cracked. Sometimes a crack is not seen and miles after brake work the crack propagates into the whetted area and a leak or catastrophic failure occurs. This is what I'm trying to get you to not have.
In this picture of damaged pistons you can see the steelback nub at the back of the brake pad.
Noise insulators. The Superduty trucks, like just about all new vehicles, no longer use a squealer on the pads to warn of impending wearout and instead rely on the fluid level warning from the reservoir. However, all quality pads use a noise insulator on the back of brake pad steelbacks to interrupted the natural harmonic frequency of the brake pad assembly that will be heard as noise. Of the different ways to attach these noise insulators, (and the insulators can cost as much as the friction material and steelback combined on OE pads), nubs can be punched up from the steelback to retain the insulator. These can be left alone to stand proud or spin welded over the insulator.
When these are utilized if the caliper pistons are not retracted far enough back, the calipers don't come out of the residing location easily and often pried out. This results in the phenolic pistons getting chipped or cracked. Sometimes a crack is not seen and miles after brake work the crack propagates into the whetted area and a leak or catastrophic failure occurs. This is what I'm trying to get you to not have.
In this picture of damaged pistons you can see the steelback nub at the back of the brake pad.
i did the brakes 4 years ago when i first got the truck.. driver side one locked up to the point i had them smoking hot... last time i had the driver side off they were looking a little thin on the piston side.. pass side rims covered in dust where it wasnt before the trip to NC. so its most likely been dragging.. probably worn the pads out on that one but wont know till i get it off.. just hope it didnt warp the fricken rotor again..
turned out the problem with the truck was a bad hub bearing... Randy came over and helped with swapping it out.. unfortunately we werent able to get the mustangs brake issue fixed.. initial problem with the stang was a bad flex hose.. but after replacing it the stupid thing kept leaking between the line and the caliper.. got a new caliper... will put it on tomorrow.. hopefully that solves the problem...
did get to ride around in Randys truck to the parts stores though Thanks Again man.. maybe tomorrow we can get the mustang fixed too...
did get to ride around in Randys truck to the parts stores though Thanks Again man.. maybe tomorrow we can get the mustang fixed too...
turned out the problem with the truck was a bad hub bearing... Randy came over and helped with swapping it out.. unfortunately we werent able to get the mustangs brake issue fixed.. initial problem with the stang was a bad flex hose.. but after replacing it the stupid thing kept leaking between the line and the caliper.. got a new caliper... will put it on tomorrow.. hopefully that solves the problem...
did get to ride around in Randys truck to the parts stores though Thanks Again man.. maybe tomorrow we can get the mustang fixed too...
did get to ride around in Randys truck to the parts stores though Thanks Again man.. maybe tomorrow we can get the mustang fixed too...
I had a friend's mother's boyfriend years ago to the brakes for her and could not for the life of him understand why he could get the air out of
the system. I got a call from my friend and so I went over. The first thing I see is 2 coper washers under each wheel. I asked him if he forgot the
washers and he said that he thought that they were not needed. Also my friend was not too bright when it comes to automotive stuff and that is
why I was called. We put the washers in and BINGO. Finished the job in about 2 Hrs after rechecking all the boyfriends work.
Sometimes the copper washers given with aftermarket calipers are not annealed enough or are too thin. During the normal process of stamping from flat sheet there is a certain degree of work hardening which should be considered when the parent material is spec'd out or the washers annealed after the stamping.
Either way, new and even used washers can be annealed by heating the copper washers to red hot then letting them air cool. We had to do that one time out on a field test and do this even with new coppers. I'll edit in a picture later. You can't do this aluminum washers when aftermarket people get real cheap.
Ford has a part number that is really thick and fits just about every banjo bolt, but unfortunately I don't have the part number. It was a '90's number starting with an F. We used them on just about everything.
Either way, new and even used washers can be annealed by heating the copper washers to red hot then letting them air cool. We had to do that one time out on a field test and do this even with new coppers. I'll edit in a picture later. You can't do this aluminum washers when aftermarket people get real cheap.
Ford has a part number that is really thick and fits just about every banjo bolt, but unfortunately I don't have the part number. It was a '90's number starting with an F. We used them on just about everything.
other than driving it to work and back nothing to it... but am noticing it driving quite a bit smoother... almost makes me want to do the driverside just so both are new... but thatll have to wait till next month.. got my frame shackle bushing kit finally after being on back order for a month.. thatll be a fun afternoon... was a fight to get the shackle back into place after the last time i had it out to look at the bushing.. and then i had an assistant...