Well it started out as a rear axle oil change this morning. Then I noticed a little play in the rear u-joint. So after removing the 2 pc. shaft I saw the dry grease on the slip splines. Then I found the real concern, excessive side play on the ring gear carrier bearings.
So I spent a good part of the day pulling the center section and replacing the bearings and u-joint.
For the slip splines I'm trying a high temp silicone ceramic brake caliper grease. It's made by CRC and is called Silaramic and comes in a 5oz tube for 14 bucks. It's really tacky and coats well. It took out the slop and looks identical to the Ford stuff. We shall see how it holds up.

 

Yesterday: Drained the T6 out and refilled with Delo 400LE 5w40. Also added 16oz of Archoil AR9100. And of course a new OEM oil filter.

Flashback: I've been having issues with the early morning "shutters" with low power until it warms up. Also having the shutters around 50mph too.

Back to yesterday: Went for a drive as soon as I finished. Truck seemed to idle a little smoother and quieter too. Reached the 50mph mark within 5 miles and no shutter. I was amazed...but also confused. It had to be the different oil and not the Archoil since it would take a while for the Archoil to fully mix with the new oil. Next test was the early morning start up. Cranked up at 8am, exterior temp was 49*. Still a little miss, but not nearly as bad and smoothed out much quicker.

Needless to say...I am pleased with the Delo 400LE. And I'm anxious to see if the Archoil helps it even more.

 

Oh yea... I gave her a bath too.

 

Does it have any PTFE in it? You really want that for the non-stick properties.
PTFE = Teflon


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

added another 200 miles on the OD today.. now someones fuel gauge is complaining again...

 

I'm aware of Ford's formula containting PTFE but that is not listed as an ingredient in this product. I think the other ingredients are a fair substitute and think it will hold up fine.
This product has Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS ) in it along with magnesium silicate. It has a temp range of -50 to 3000°. It's a pure silicone, boundary (ceramic) lubricant formulated to reduce noise, and vibrations by dampening vibration frequencies. It displaces moisture and is compatible with EPDM & Nitrile rubbers.
For what is described I think it will be a good subsitute. I noticed the more I "worked" the product in and on my glove it seemed to get thicker. The stuff just seems to be perfect for the application and is readily available, especially on a Sunday afternoon. I'll try to give an update. I know if you try using regular grease it will show issues in a month or so.

EDIT: Actually I'll be leaving for Florida and back next month so that should be a good test.

 

Wrapped up a three-day trip, 764 miles pulling the camper. 10.89 mpg

Admittedly, drove north through one front with 18-22mph headwinds, came back through 10-12mph headwinds. Always a headwind somehow

 

Your day sounds like mine....

The bottom rear of my truck is coated in 75w140 because my pinion seal is leaking. I have a new seal for it, but now that you mention slop in the driveshaft, I do hear a clunk when putting it in gear. May or may not be the U joints slowly failing, but I'll give this a look too.

I and both my trucks have always found T6 to be garbage. Both my trucks ran like crap on them I couldn't drain them soon enough. Delo 5w40 is what I ran for the longest in my 6.0 and it ran ever so smooth and the internals were just spotless. Magnolia Tom runs it on his 6.0 and I couldn't believe how clean it was under the valve covers and HPO system with I did his STC fitting. Even a Schaeffers rep I talked to said it was dirty stuff and not to run it in either of my trucks. He did, however, say that if he couldn't get his hands on Schaeffers for an oil change, he'd happily use either Delo 15w40 or 5w40.

I now exclusively run Schaeffers 9000 in my 6.0 and it too is a very clean oil that performs well. It's not cheap, but it's awesome stuff. I have little to no stiction now and my engine is happy with it and a non-inductive heating flash on cold days.

 

I did it on the ground so with the drive shaft hooked up everything felt fine of course because it was under tension. It was after I put it in neutral to check driveline is when I found the bad joint. Then of course I had to check backlash and that's when I found the slop side to side.
The rear didn't make any real noticeable noise and I probably wouldn't of known until it was too late. Probably would of let go somewhere in Georgia next week.
Today I drove into work and between the rear driveline work and the new shocks it's like a new truck again. It's a good feeling.

In your case pay extra attention to the pinion bearings.

 

OK, I'm impressed. Sunday you find a differential bearing problem and Monday your driving it repaired.

The u-joint I'd be fussing around for the week.

 

Thanks Jack. But the impressive part is it only cost me 84 bucks since I already had the full syn oil on the shelf and just needed the cones and cups and the ujoint. Gotta love TRT30 promo code at Advance. Luckily the pinion was tight and still had its preload tension on it ensuring it is ok.
For u-joints I don't play around. I cut out the cross with the cutting torch and then airhammer out the caps while it's still warm. Then I have a wire brush that mounts in my drill and fits the ears perfectly to return to a spotless rust free finish. Press in the new cups and I'm done.
Getting the strength together to lift the assembled center section up into the housing while laying on your side and trying to keep the cup bearings from falling is a challenge and is why my torso hurts.

 

I cut crosses too, but with a saw, heat the ears a little then tap out. Dremel wire brush or a little abrasive to clean them up, and a light coat of antiseize to help them back in.

I think I'll ready to check the u-joints.

I'm surprised Advance had the bearings too.

 

Killer code for sure.

Join the Speed Perks they offer and then when you buy something, they give you a code for Speed Perks... it's $$ off the purchase price of your next purchase and can be used with the TRT30 at the same time.... bigger discount. It's like $5 for every $25 you spend.

Comes out to something like $80 off every $150 you spend... nobody beats that deal!

 

Tell me more about this "non-inductive heating flash".

 

With a discount code and Speedperks I bought a Motorcraft Fuel Filter kit for less than Amazon and I picked it up in the store.