Nothing like go kart steering on an 8000lb truck

 

its a little sketchy to drive lol. i'll figure it out sooner or later

 

I changed the oil and thermostat, tooling up for the cold weather.

 

I changed the fuel filters tonight. I haven't done it in a year so I followed the sticky instructions and the Powerstroke published instructions, I did the HFCM primary first and the engine secondary second, I then cycled the key as instructed. The truck started but I could hear it running rough and shut it off. I cold not get it to start, I tried multiple times with no luck. I took off the secondary cap and there was nothing in the bowl, I cycled the key, I heard the air come out of the lines an the bowl filled. I put the cap back on and started the truck. It ran rough for a minute and then settled out. I let it run and then took it for a short drive. All seems to be normal but do my injectors now hate me?

 

I like to lube up both the upper and lower filter cap o rings with fresh engine oil and don't be shy with it. This ensures the o ring doesn't bind or get cut or torn up. It maybe just that your upper o ring was not seated properly. Also, be sure to use a socket on those caps and don't over torque. It's possible you had a bit of a air leak and just needed to remove the cap and reseat it again. I like to run the key on trick atleast 4 times to ensure that both filter bowls are well primed and removed all the air. Injectors don't like it but I wouldn't worry to much, this is a twice or so times a year thing. Pretty sure you should be ok.

 

Drove it home from a hunting trip.

 

Great! Thanks! The last thing I need is to screw up injectors.

I was thinking I read that I should have done the secondary filter first than the primary to keep the air out of the system, is that true?

 

Thats how I do mine but for convenience. Typicaly im changing oil at the same time so I do the under truck stuff first then the upper stuff

 

Well fellas I am back.
After regrettably selling my Excursion that I had set up just the way I liked it. I ended up trying 6.4L's (2 projects) and I leased (commercially) for about 6 months a F250 XL 6.7L CC LB that I used for a side job.
Got rid of all of those now I have come full circle and now have a 2005 F350 Lariat CC LB DRW. Got this one shipped from TN and first thing noticed is the coolant temp rises pretty slow, the 4x4 wouldn't come on the dash, and TBC error on dash so off to the dealership. Needed only a module for the 4x4 (worried it was the seals, TBC module (back order) and a new thermostat (with flush). When it got home I did the oil change (T6/OEM filters) my 2nd on the 6.0L and my first fuel filter change. The fuel filter on the frame cap was very very difficult to remove. Even after I had it off I put oil on the o rings and the threads thinking it would go in easier and there was still resistence getting the cap on. Realized the oil filter cap wasn't OEM (not clips on it) so I had to go back and get the OEM cap from dealership.
For a stock 6.0L I am still impressed. It pulls pretty strong (does DRW have deeper gears) yet was still able to get 19 mpg on short stretchs of flat highway at 65 mph. Those stock 6.4L's suck way more fuel (esp F450) and I miss the diesel sound and rattle. The 6.7L was so quiet I would forget it wasn't a gasser.

 

Have you had an alignment lately? I would check the toe. If that is
off it will be squirrely.

I had gotten new tire on my Ranger at one time and it was like
driving on marbles. Turned out the tow was off by 0.25" all the rest was good.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

The system is self-bleeding simply by cycling the key several times. It doesn't matter which filter you do first.

 

new tailgate came today so i fitted it up found my box sides were actually squeezed in at the top so i had to come up with a way to correct that. after i got that done painted the new tailgate and put it on. still need to get the badges and top trim.

 

Added some Hot Shots with a oil and filter change of fresh T6. I also decided to dig under the dash for the high idle mod wire but the rain changed my mind on installing a switch. Been raining for a solid 5 days too. Maybe some nice weather tomorrow will let me finish the job. Does anyone know where I could get my hands on a used upfitter switch assembly and wires besides ebay? Ive searched amazon, ebay, craiglist, Tousley etc. cheapest ive found is Tousley for about 120 plus shipping. Folks are wanting more for used ones on ebay!

 

put 455.1 miles on her... now she had 1/8 tank left and is thirsty.. also just ticked over 140,000 miles too..

 

Been seeing a lot of that type of pricing of items. I went so fas as to email one once. No answer back. On top that they
have the nerve to charge shipping on the stuff. But you do have to take into account that both Ebay and PayPal charge
the seller on the item. The ones that really **** me off are the ones that put the item up for $0.99 and $200.00 for
the shipping for a thing that can be dropped in the Priority Mail Flat Rate Shipping Box. All that did was get Ebay to take
a % of your shipping cost. Really screwed the honest people that don't pad the shipping costs.

Anyway back to your part. Have you looked at >>> Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market ?
I picked up a core 5R110W that way to send back in to Ford so I could take my time and dissect the one I had that died from
a failed Coast Clutch assembly. They don't work well when you break the Sun Gear loose from the Clutch Shell. You pick the item
from the list in a location that you designate and then contact the yard or yards that you think might have what you want.
You can also setup an email alert when the item shows up.

BTW the site is FREE.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder