hello every one my 1999 7.3 needs some help one day it ran fine it had i little skip but not bad parked it on friday at the camp sight started it up on sunday to go home it ran for abought 15 min and shut off it would not start back for nouthing took it to a local diseal shop they finely got it to start said that the IDM was bad instaled a new one now it takes for ever to start it takes along time for theoil preser to come up then abought 5 more min of cranking to get it to start cut it off for 30 min does the same thing agine

 

Sounds like an oil problem. These motors run on high pressure oil for the injectors. If your oil pressure is not coming up you mit have to change out the LPOP. Do you have excess to an AE. Need to read the codes with the right code reader. Not all Diesel shops or want to be's know the 7.3L motor. If we had codes we could tell you more. Have you had the CPS changed on the recall by ford?
Chet

 

Are you in a cold climate?

GPR gone bad?

 

thanks to the guys that responded it was the cam sencer for 24$ my truck is runing better than ever

 

Holy crow, CPS units have been causing a lot of problems lately!

 

My 99-7.3 would stop running, just shut down. After sitting 5-10 minutes, it would run fine but then would shut down again. It was the cam sensor also. Replaced it and no more problemo's

 

Where is this Cam sensor? I haven't done any of the recalls as of late...

 

Laying under the truck to the passenger side. Look at the harmonic balancer (big pulley on bottom) it is to the 10:00-11:00 position. It has a metal tab that sticks out towards the balancer. Unplug it 10mm socket to remove it. Oil the o-ring on new one and replace. Three minute job...... Well for me it is, I have had nine of the go bad. Ten minutes tops if it's your first.

 

Thanks for the details. Sounds simple enough.

Do you have a part number or do I just go to the stealership for it?

 

or do I just go to the stealership for it?

stealership.....good one...!!

 

Hello, I am new to the forum and I have similar issues... less the start problem. The real issue is mine cranks, slowly as if the batteries are weak, but will not start. I have had batteries checked, both good. I have replaced glow plug relay, plugs and harnesses for preventative since at 210k miles. Still no start. I read about starter issues, possibly getting to a point where binding. Any suggestions will be appreciated!

 

Welcome, when you had them tested I assume you mean load tested, not just voltage correct.

I would start by cleaning all the battery terminals and posts, as well as the grounds to the engine and posts on the starter and relay, if that doesn't help your starter may be getting weak.

 

To be sure, yes battery terminals and cables are good and clean and all connections verified. I am an aircraft avionics technician in the Air Force and kind of **** about those things. I am just tired of making some guys house payment for an hour or two of work. Also, I replaced the crank sensor a couple of years ago and considered this as a preventative as well but do not feel I have multiple issues. I will say that a weak starter is making more sense the more I dig for information. I guess I just do not completely understand the cranking requirements of the diesel. I will say that earlier on, at one point when I was starting the truck, it cranked as if the batteries were brand new (quickly) and started right up. After I drove it, shut it down... back to slow cranking.

 

I dont really want to say it again cause you sound like you checked them, but weak or even a little bit low voltage makes all the difference in the world. my buddies truck did this and he has just replaced his batteries a year earlier. I would charge them up just to rule it out. Then you need to look at your oil pressure while cranking. if the hpop is week or bad the truck will have a hard time starting. the Hpop is what drives the fuel injectors. You can also look in the top of the hpop resevoir by removing the plug and make sure the oil is within and half inch or so of the top. extended cranking can cause the level to go down and if it gets too low it will not build enough pressure to start.

AE (Autoengenuity) is great for diagnosing problems that some mechanics cannot find.

 

Thanks for the responses to my plee for help here, but I discovered the problem and am running good again. I will provide some insight in to what I went through to get back on the road, and in doing so hope to enable other do-it-yourselfers with a little confidence going forward with similar problems.

1. When I started out I went on line a paid a mechanic to tell me to do what I already did. Check Patteries, check voltage to the glow plug relay, listen for the engage click when the key is turned and rush out with my meter to verify it was engaging and disengaging as required for glow plug operation... it was. I was encouraged to raplace the glow plugs as they were "probably bad". I ordered a glow plug kit with harnesses, valve cover seals and relay and replaced them all. It still did not start!
2. I re-verified batteries and cables as suggested... they were still good!
3. I replaced my fuel filter as requested (WTF?)... It still did not start!
4. I considered dropping and inspecting the fuel tank for blockages... As recommended, by the same mechanic. I stopped the madness here as I am still not convinced ANY fuel blockage will cause a slow crank.

Lets get to it now!!
For an issue such as mine, slow crank/no start and happening at the time of year it did (winter), you may first suspect batteries and/or glow plugs, but first ask yourself if this was sudden or progressive. Mine was sudden.

As stated above I replaced all glow plug, relay, harnesses and valve cover seals. If this is a course of action for you, go to it with confidence as it is not hard just a pain getting to the valve covers to sxpose the harnesses. First do this though... Before you remove anything check the harnesses and glow plugs by veingfying their resistance.