great thread, keep up the great work. I need to get moving on my own.

 

Worked on the other frame rail, we almost got it completed but ran out of wire feed.





I went into town to look for some motor mounts for my cleveland. No luck. But I did run into this guy. Pretty neat.








I am also looking for ideas on how to reconstruct the frame horns up front. My original idea was to just buy a few feet of 1/8 steel and just weld a box addition on to the existing horns. My step dad said I should look for some C channel, but I wasn't able to find any with a web of 3.5 inches (the height of the frame rail).
The best thing would be to find someone who has cut theirs off, anyone know where I might find any?

 

Been working on the frame horns to mount my new bumper on. I bought 11 gague steel at a machine shop and had them bend it into a C shape bend. Almost ready to mount my bumper.

 

Could anyone tell me what the second set of holes on the frame horn are? The ones cocked at an angle sitting farther back on the frame horn.

 

 

A bunch more photos, put the motor and transmission back in on the new motor mounts. It is looks little crooked in the photo but we checked over and over and over. It also has a small amount of play in it, the transmission member was still out and no nuts etc. Its also not at ride height.

 

Now I'm looking for soemone who has used long headers on a cleveland in one of these trucks. Wishful thinking...


Oh, the drive shaft fits. Yippee
Edit: Turns out it is going to be too short. Boo

 

Probably the ones that are for the "winged" brace that bolts to the bottom edge of the bumper? I'd have to go out to the garage and look, but isn't there a triangular brace on top the frame as well?

Nope, the top flange of the frame tapers, that's what I remembered as a triangular brace. Did you widen the notches in the valance since you didn't taper the top flange?

 

double post. Sorry!

 

Im not sure if anyone pays attention to this thread but posting every time I do anything significant to the truck helps me keep a log of sorts so I'll be able to look back in the future...

I was messing with the drive shaft today and it turns out it is too short. It needs to be about an inch and a half longer by my best "under the truck" guess.

Other than that, I got the panhard bar in, put in some rear boxing, played with the new steering column, and dropped the truck to ride height.

After a few months of deliberation and necessity, so I can continue working on the truck. I ordered these short headers.
Doug's Headers D6512 - Doug's Headers - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

I kept the valance and stuff for this very reason. I didn't have to adjust it at all and there was plenty of room on either side, easily a half inch per. The valance I have though like the front fenders is fiberglass and wont be reused. That brings up a good point though. I don't know if they are the same as stock.

 

I have a FG valance on hand to compare with my stock one, but that doesn't mean it's the same as the one you have. The front sheet metal moves around quite a bit as the frame flexes, but since you have boxed your frame???

 

Put the headers on for mock up. They allow clearance for the brake pedal and steering shaft fine. however I was unable to put the reducer on the drivers side due to having to use a rear sump pan. I am going to have to fab something for this, I'm just not sure what I'm going to do to make it work yet. They look awesome.

 

I'm paying attention. Watching progress on other builds encourages me. Also, FWIW, my valence would not be wide enough if the horn did not tapper.

 

Crawling along still.

Frame Horns are now tapered.
Steering wheel is in.
Bunch of other little things done.

I am probably going to order rear calipers, rotors, and pads for the 9 inch. As well as brake lines and fuel lines. Once I've done that I am going to start preparing to remove the cab, anyone got a guess on how heavy it is or what you need to lift it?