Front Sway Bar Bushing Replacement (with pics)
#136
As to keep us all honest here and for accuracy's sake it appears that my Energy kit was $2 less expensive than the Dorman links, so who is saving the money now. lol
I'm sure that the Dormans were faster to install, as I posted at the beginning of this thread I did my install between 3 and 5 O'clock including picture taking and painting parts. As of yet I haven't found anyone to pay me for my free time yet, but when I do I'll be set for life!
As for being a glutton for punishment, if 10 minutes of hammer work is considered "punishment" then I guess I am. At least I was driving the hammer, not catching it.
Just having a little fun here at Brent's expense, Being the wise and worldly gent that he is I hope he takes it as it's meant, all in fun.
My parts are holding up well after 2.5+ years, I hope the Dormans as well the other solutions mentioned in this thread are too.
#137
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mt. Shasta California
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
As to keep us all honest here and for accuracy's sake it appears that my Energy kit was $2 less expensive than the Dorman links, so who is saving the money now. lol
I'm sure that the Dormans were faster to install, as I posted at the beginning of this thread I did my install between 3 and 5 O'clock including picture taking and painting parts. As of yet I haven't found anyone to pay me for my free time yet, but when I do I'll be set for life!
As for being a glutton for punishment, if 10 minutes of hammer work is considered "punishment" then I guess I am. At least I was driving the hammer, not catching it.
Just having a little fun here at Brent's expense, Being the wise and worldly gent that he is I hope he takes it as it's meant, all in fun.
My parts are holding up well after 2.5+ years, I hope the Dormans as well the other solutions mentioned in this thread are too.
I'm sure that the Dormans were faster to install, as I posted at the beginning of this thread I did my install between 3 and 5 O'clock including picture taking and painting parts. As of yet I haven't found anyone to pay me for my free time yet, but when I do I'll be set for life!
As for being a glutton for punishment, if 10 minutes of hammer work is considered "punishment" then I guess I am. At least I was driving the hammer, not catching it.
Just having a little fun here at Brent's expense, Being the wise and worldly gent that he is I hope he takes it as it's meant, all in fun.
My parts are holding up well after 2.5+ years, I hope the Dormans as well the other solutions mentioned in this thread are too.
#139
not to bring back an old thread but i just started to get some "clunking" up front and im going to start by replacing the bushings i searched and couldnt find a kit for the exursion from energy suspension so im assuming
Energy Suspension 4.5180 - Front Sway Bar Frame Bushings - 36mm (1.41 inch). Energy Suspension ENE-4.5180G
Prothane 881166 - Front Sway Bar Endlink Bushings. Prothane 88-1166-BL
thats all i need to get the job done?
Energy Suspension 4.5180 - Front Sway Bar Frame Bushings - 36mm (1.41 inch). Energy Suspension ENE-4.5180G
Prothane 881166 - Front Sway Bar Endlink Bushings. Prothane 88-1166-BL
thats all i need to get the job done?
#141
#142
#143
#144
Thanks!!
I know it's an old thread, but very useful and inspired me to sign up!!
Used the pictures to do the Energy Suspension replacement, and that part worked like a charm. Problem was, I quickly developed a knock again- but different this time.
Traced the noise back to the sway bar link. The stock bolt is just too small inside the Energy Susp metal sleeve, and was smacking around inside it. Asked them for advice a couple weeks ago, and still no response, so not excited about their customer service. Replaced their sleeve with a bronze bushing and matching grade 8 bolt and voila, noise gone. One thing I noticed, the metal sleeve was very difficult to get out of the rubber bushing. So this means the metal bolt would be twisting inside the metal sleeve.... seems like a recipe to wear out quickly. Maybe it was just my bolt, but if you do the swap and still have a knock, disconnect the sway bar again and test to make sure that's not the culprit. I was spinning in circles for a little while troubleshooting.
Anyway, replacement Moog links with grease zerks coming from Rock Auto, I think that's the best long term solution.
Used the pictures to do the Energy Suspension replacement, and that part worked like a charm. Problem was, I quickly developed a knock again- but different this time.
Traced the noise back to the sway bar link. The stock bolt is just too small inside the Energy Susp metal sleeve, and was smacking around inside it. Asked them for advice a couple weeks ago, and still no response, so not excited about their customer service. Replaced their sleeve with a bronze bushing and matching grade 8 bolt and voila, noise gone. One thing I noticed, the metal sleeve was very difficult to get out of the rubber bushing. So this means the metal bolt would be twisting inside the metal sleeve.... seems like a recipe to wear out quickly. Maybe it was just my bolt, but if you do the swap and still have a knock, disconnect the sway bar again and test to make sure that's not the culprit. I was spinning in circles for a little while troubleshooting.
Anyway, replacement Moog links with grease zerks coming from Rock Auto, I think that's the best long term solution.
#145
Nice job dirtyegg!
When I did my bushings I also replaced the swaybar endlinks. I opted to just replace the entire thing with new ones instead of pressing out, or burning the originals out.
I still have my old end links, I'll probably press them out and clean them up just so I have an extra set ready.
When I did my bushings I also replaced the swaybar endlinks. I opted to just replace the entire thing with new ones instead of pressing out, or burning the originals out.
I still have my old end links, I'll probably press them out and clean them up just so I have an extra set ready.
#146
OLD but still totally relevant. Thanks for this great info. Timely because my Energy Suspension kit is about to arrive. I'm feeling frugal about this sway bar end link thing because 1. I have a press, 2 I don't like buying an entire piece when I can rebuild for cheaper and save resources.
Last night I halfheartedly started smacking away at my old end link bushings, to no avail. UBANGY methodololgy is my fav...but they aren't budging. I will need to heat w/ torch first me thinks.
BTW Y2K put together a killer post on this subject. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...end-links.html
Also, ACDELCO makes what looks like a nice unit for $45 compared Moogs for $53 (at AMAZON)...if you're counting pennies. ACDELCO is reputable in my experience. Moog is for sure. See Y2k's post for details.
I tried looking for SACHS W0133-1903311 bushing inserts, which according to Y2k may be OEM, but I cannot find them for sale anywhere.
Now which sway bar -to frame bushings FIT my truck????
Moog K80072 1 1/4" Front Sway Bar Frame Bushing DONT fit my 2002 7.3 4WD off road automatic, crewcab.
Last night I halfheartedly started smacking away at my old end link bushings, to no avail. UBANGY methodololgy is my fav...but they aren't budging. I will need to heat w/ torch first me thinks.
BTW Y2K put together a killer post on this subject. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...end-links.html
Also, ACDELCO makes what looks like a nice unit for $45 compared Moogs for $53 (at AMAZON)...if you're counting pennies. ACDELCO is reputable in my experience. Moog is for sure. See Y2k's post for details.
I tried looking for SACHS W0133-1903311 bushing inserts, which according to Y2k may be OEM, but I cannot find them for sale anywhere.
Now which sway bar -to frame bushings FIT my truck????
Moog K80072 1 1/4" Front Sway Bar Frame Bushing DONT fit my 2002 7.3 4WD off road automatic, crewcab.
#147
Energy Suspension 4.5186G sucks
This afternoon I installed Energy Suspension 4.5186G on my 2002 F350 4WD Off Road automatic 7.3l. My end links were completely destroyed at 202k miles. Shame on me for letting them get like to that point.
I heated (MAPP gas) and pushed the old bushings out with a shop press
Anyway here are some problems I encountered with installation.
1. The holes in the 4 gold plated washers are too small to accept the OEM bolts, top or bottom, for the endlinks. I had to drill them out with 1/2 inch bit to get the bolts to fit through.
2. The 4 washers...go.....where??? The instructions dont say. I used one on the inner end of each endlink as per pics.
3. The replacement bushings...ya its relatively obvious which ones go where...but come-on ES!...The F series is one of the most common platforms in the WORLD...and you couldn't print specific instructions? Especially with respect to the washers.
4. The OEM metal heat shield for the passenger side upper end link cannot be used with the ES kit...unless you turn it around, which likely reduces its efficacy.
5. WORST OF ALL: The long bolts that mate the top of the endlink to the frame have a taper near the bolt head and an inch-long section that is WIDER than the new metal sleeves Energy Suspension provides which means you MUST turn the long bolt around feed it from the OUTSIDE of the truck in order to keep the thicker section of the bolt away from the ES sleeve and not feed the long bolt from the inside of the truck, as originally installed.
6. ES doesn't include enough silicon lubricant in the kit. Have more on hand! ..and some Loctite Blue.
So, yes, the kit is cheaper than even one new greasable endlink from Moog or a ACDELCO unit AND the ES kit includes the sway bar to frame bushings ($12-20 if purchased separately). However polyurethane is SUPER low tech compared to a proper ball and joint end link such as the OEM, Moog, ACDELCO units.
So, I would like to officially raise my middle finger to Energy Suspension. If it wasn't because I have a shop press and MAP gas handy, this would have been a total waste of time. I like burning and pressing out bushings but the make-it-up-as-you-go installation of the ES kit is totally unacceptable.
Also, here the torque specs for the end links and to-frame brackets.
I heated (MAPP gas) and pushed the old bushings out with a shop press
Anyway here are some problems I encountered with installation.
1. The holes in the 4 gold plated washers are too small to accept the OEM bolts, top or bottom, for the endlinks. I had to drill them out with 1/2 inch bit to get the bolts to fit through.
2. The 4 washers...go.....where??? The instructions dont say. I used one on the inner end of each endlink as per pics.
3. The replacement bushings...ya its relatively obvious which ones go where...but come-on ES!...The F series is one of the most common platforms in the WORLD...and you couldn't print specific instructions? Especially with respect to the washers.
4. The OEM metal heat shield for the passenger side upper end link cannot be used with the ES kit...unless you turn it around, which likely reduces its efficacy.
5. WORST OF ALL: The long bolts that mate the top of the endlink to the frame have a taper near the bolt head and an inch-long section that is WIDER than the new metal sleeves Energy Suspension provides which means you MUST turn the long bolt around feed it from the OUTSIDE of the truck in order to keep the thicker section of the bolt away from the ES sleeve and not feed the long bolt from the inside of the truck, as originally installed.
6. ES doesn't include enough silicon lubricant in the kit. Have more on hand! ..and some Loctite Blue.
So, yes, the kit is cheaper than even one new greasable endlink from Moog or a ACDELCO unit AND the ES kit includes the sway bar to frame bushings ($12-20 if purchased separately). However polyurethane is SUPER low tech compared to a proper ball and joint end link such as the OEM, Moog, ACDELCO units.
So, I would like to officially raise my middle finger to Energy Suspension. If it wasn't because I have a shop press and MAP gas handy, this would have been a total waste of time. I like burning and pressing out bushings but the make-it-up-as-you-go installation of the ES kit is totally unacceptable.
Also, here the torque specs for the end links and to-frame brackets.
#148
#149
I ordered my kit from Energy Suspension, the kit came with Prothane components. I have the same top bolt problem as Lex2002. No isntructions with the kit, tried on line chat, but they are too busy. Found more information on this site. Guess I'll do the same with the top bolt. May buy 8 large washers.