Does anyone have diagrams or pictures of how the steering column ignition switch is assembled? My truck came to me with an after market keyed switch installed in the dash, and the stock switch dissassembled. I think I have all of the parts I need to re-assemble it, but I've never been able to find any pictures or diagrams to make sure I know what I'm doing...

I'll be putting in a new lock cylinder and hope to get everything working as stock.

 

Hey their if u need some great info on your old truck , google ford flathead engine-van pelt sales.llc it will get u to a couple of great site with info needed Hope this site can help u out with what u need Roy

 

Are you meaning the switch on the back of the column drop? I can snap you some pix this weekend of a switch on one of my spare columns for you.

 

Yep, that's exactly what I'm talking about. I've got the plastic switch parts (the contacts), and the physical switch is still in the column drop. I'm just not sure I've got everthing that should be there. I can probably figure out how it goes together, but some pictures would be great.

Thanks

 

Spaught, my apologies, had an emergency come up today, wasn't able to get those pix. I will get them in the next day or two for you. Again, my apologies.

 

Not a problem, I appreciate you taking the time. Whenever you gat the chance is fine with me...

Thanks again

 

hi,
caution on the switch - the original style may be 6 volt, new style needs 12 volts,
plus it will not have any "accessory" switch for radios, etc.

something to think about, the amperage specs may be different.

best of luck,
mpr

 

Yeah, I've thought of that. This truck doesn't have any accessories to speak of anyway. I'll keep the 6V/12V thing in mind though. I took a look at the truck last night, and I think I may still be missing some pieces, so I'll have to wait and see what info I can get from the membership here...

 

I just got my restored one in. Here are a few pictures.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42046612@N00/6941553891/" title="back by DC Shoes Guy, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/6941553891_9cb819fe61_b.jpg" width="577" height="1024" alt="back"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/42046612@N00/6795443126/" title="front by DC Shoes Guy, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7049/6795443126_73769ccfab_b.jpg" width="541" height="960" alt="front"></a>

 

Thanks, that helps out. I've done a little more digging and it looks like I'm missing the switch case (Ford P/N 81A-3712). Here's what I've got so far:



The column drop (from below)



The body



And the brush.

I haven't found anyone who's selling the case, and the one from my truck is long gone. Any chance you've got pictures of yours before you put the switch together (or are willing to pop the body off and take a shot of what's inside)? From what I've seen it doesn't look too complicated, but I have no idea what the inside of the case looks like.

 

Spaught, here's a pic of the internals of the metal case, all it is is just the brush. Moving the toggle switch on the column moves the brush side to side to make contact with the COIL and the GAGE contacts on the body, completing the circuit, allowing the truck to start and run. You have 2 of the 3 needed parts, the metal housing is all that's missing. The part is the same on a wide variety of Ford products of the era, cars, trucks, buses, etc.

 

Is there any sort of pin or locator in the case that keeps the brush in place and lets it pivot when the switch is thrown? The back of the brush as two indentations in it, an oblong one that looks like the switch nub fits into, and a small circular one that looks like it should be for a pin to fit into and provide a pivot. Any chance you can take the brush out of the case and snap a quick picture of just the case?

 

Here is a pic of the bare metal box. The best way I can describe the pivot point of the brush is that it looks like when the metal part was made they drove a nail or a punch thru the box, creating what looks like when you drive a nail thru a license plate. The backside of the hole is jagged where the nail ripped thru. This creates enough metal protruding to hold the brush in place. Very primitive, but 65+ years later and the design still works. Hope this helps you out.

 

That's perfect, exactly what I needed to see! Thanks again, this side rocks...

 

Sorry for popping an old thread!

I'm trying to remove the steering lock from my ignition switch assembly, but I can' t take i apart.

I got as far as this (borrowed) picture.

But how do I split the "piston" from the switch-thing?

/Simon
Swede