a few questions regarding push rods
#16
#17
1. Your pushrods should be clean as a whistle, they will be brand new. You can't use the original pushrods with guide plates unless the guideplates have some sort of plastic coating on them. The pushrods have to be the hardened type or the guideplates will chew them up. I suppose you could start the engine up and run it a little bit with the stock pushrods, but I would not do it very long.
2. These heads should be very close to the same dimensions as the stock heads, thus is why the guy at Summit said the stock length should work. Only if you have took a lot off the deck of the block, or shaved the heads radically, do you need to worry about the length.
3. If the lifters are pumped up or not, it does not matter. All you are doing to setting the pre-load of the lifter system by taking the slack out and then turning it 3/4 turn. If the lifter doesn't have any oil in it, then when you turn it 3/4 turn, the plunger in the lifter will drop into the lifter bore. If it does have oil in it, then it will just push the valve open when you turn it 3/4 turn, and as it sits there the oil will slowly bleed out and shut the valve.
4. The camshaft assembly lube; It should be very sticky or very thick. The whole reason behind this stuff is the camshaft lobes are normally splash lubed. When a new engine is started, there is no oil on the lobes because the engine has never been run to splash any up there. Thus you need to pre-oil the cam with something, and it's usually thick or sticky so it stays on the lobes for the first start up.
2. These heads should be very close to the same dimensions as the stock heads, thus is why the guy at Summit said the stock length should work. Only if you have took a lot off the deck of the block, or shaved the heads radically, do you need to worry about the length.
3. If the lifters are pumped up or not, it does not matter. All you are doing to setting the pre-load of the lifter system by taking the slack out and then turning it 3/4 turn. If the lifter doesn't have any oil in it, then when you turn it 3/4 turn, the plunger in the lifter will drop into the lifter bore. If it does have oil in it, then it will just push the valve open when you turn it 3/4 turn, and as it sits there the oil will slowly bleed out and shut the valve.
4. The camshaft assembly lube; It should be very sticky or very thick. The whole reason behind this stuff is the camshaft lobes are normally splash lubed. When a new engine is started, there is no oil on the lobes because the engine has never been run to splash any up there. Thus you need to pre-oil the cam with something, and it's usually thick or sticky so it stays on the lobes for the first start up.
#18
"1. Your pushrods should be clean as a whistle, they will be brand new. "
Mine were brand new also chromoly's from Trick Flow. I dont know what was in them maybe cosmoline or some other type of packaging grease. They had something in them. Rather if it would have caused an obstruction I dont know, but , I do know I had a nice top end set up that I didnt want to gamble with.
Mine were brand new also chromoly's from Trick Flow. I dont know what was in them maybe cosmoline or some other type of packaging grease. They had something in them. Rather if it would have caused an obstruction I dont know, but , I do know I had a nice top end set up that I didnt want to gamble with.
#19
Because of the possibility of machining lubricant, storage grease, or whatever, I believe it is a good idea to always clean new or reused pushrods before installation. Soak in some solvent, blow out the center passage, then I wash with dishsoap and water to clean, and finally dry and again, blow out the center with compressed air. Maybe it's overkill, but for what I have invested, it's 15 minutes and a little bit of solvent and soapy water. When I'm done, I know they're clean.
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