Replacement FICM connectors:
1456315-6 (AP0018)
1456315-2 (AP0019)
1456316-1 (AP0020)



1. Remove the injector harness from the engine.

2. If your harness has the 90 degree wire protection at the base of the connector, carefully remove all of the tape from the wires about 2-3 inches back from the connector. This will allow for easier pin removal later on.

3. The 90 degree wire protection is fastened to the main connector with four clips. Depress the clips and remove it from the connector.


4. Inside the connector the wires are held in place by a clip that snaps at the base of each pin. The clip has to be released so the outer portion of the connector can be removed. Looking at the face of the connector, the top row of pins are numbered 1 -8 from right to left. Using an appropriate sized screwdriver, press in the the white plastic retaining clip on the 1 pin side of the connector. You will hear a click when it is released.


5. At the connector base, there are two more clips that need to be released. Using a small screwdriver, insert it into the small holes on the short sides of the connector to release connector cover. Very little pressure is needed here.


6. The cover can now be carefully pulled from the base of the connector and removed. The inner white plastic retaining clip that was released in step 4 will most likely be removed along with the cover in this step. I put it back on for this picture.


7. The pins are now held in place by some very fragile one way barbs which are pinched in at the pin base. Each barb clips the wire pin from the top and bottom. The openings at the side of the barb will allow the wire pins to gently slip through. The circled area shows an unused barb in the middle row with a good view of the side openings. I used a small screwdriver to CAREFULLY wiggle each pin while lightly pushing them beyond the barbs. Do not push the pins all the way out. We only want to remove the barbed plastic retainer in this step. This will give you the opportunity to transfer the pins to the new connector without having to keep track of all of the wires. This is where removing the additional tape from the base of the connector at the beginning will give you the needed room to back out the wires from the base without totally removing them.


8. Grab your new connector base and orient it the same way as the damaged connector base. Remove your first row of wires and place them one by one into the new base. Repeat the same step with the second row.


9. Once the pins are transferred to the new connector, only push them in far enough so the one way barbed retainer can be placed over them. We only want the tips of the pins to be just above the barbs. Now grab the new connector cover and place it face down with number 1 pin hole on the right (arrow in pic). The white retaining clip needs to be placed inside the cover with the extended tab towards the left (8 pin side) and the raised tab (pic) fits into the cover and away from the pins. Slide the retaining clip to the left inside the cover so the holes are fully open.



10. The new connector cover can now be placed over the pins and onto bottom half. Take your time. Once you feel that all of the pin tips have passed beyond the clip and have started into the connector holes, the connector cover should easily snap into place. Each wire now has to be 100% inserted into the connector so they seat beyond the one way barbs. Make sure the pins all are full inserted to the numbered face of the connector cover. The white retaining clip will not snap into place. Once all wire pins are fully seated and visible at the numbered connector face, the internal white retaining clip tab should be pushed in from 8 pin side of the connector and snapped into place.
11. Replace the 90 degree wire protection at the base, and tape it back up.

Here are two views of the connector assembly.

 

awsome write up how about the x3 connector not so ease to get onto the bench hahah

 

That one wasn't broken.....yet

 

Great writeup pics are great

I tried to rep you but gotta spread it some first

 

Thanks. Maybe it will find it's way to the tech folder.

 

Great job I always thought you had to replace that pigtail style. I tried to rep you too but no luck. Do you have a part number for that guy?

 

Part numbers are at the top of the post. AP0019 and AP0020 are the injector harness connectors. I really don't see a difference in the two. AP0018 is the connector for the power supply and PCM communication. After doing a ton of searches, it appears that the replacement part is exclusive to alliant and is distributed by the retailers you come across. There is a big difference in pricing on the handful of websites I looked at. Still pretty expensive for some plastic, as are all of the parts for these trucks.

I wonder what the dealer cost is for this repair??

 

rep added.

 

dealer cost is a new harness, ford does not sell the hardshell. I have fixed a few with connectors I have laying around. iirc 4 hours was the labor on diag and repair of the last one I did.

 

I also used a connector from a parts box. Guess I did save some money on that repair.

 

fixxxer... you beat me to it. Nice Work! This definitely needs to go into the tech folder. Did you purchase the connectors from Oregon Fuel Injection?

 

I'll see if John can't make that happen for us. Excellent writeup.

Where is the cheapest place you found the connectors? After searching for harnesses I found that the price has skyrocketed exponentially.

 

Unreal post fixxxeruper reps your way.

 

Oh Maxium this does need to be in the tech folder , we all have at least one broke connector ,i have two with one side broke just waiting on the other to go.

 

I found multiple vendors that are selling the AP0019/AP0020 which are the X1 and X2 injector harness connectors for about $24. The AP0018 (X3) connector was around $27 or so. Thanks for the reps!