Is there anyone here that can help me understand the Texas Inspection/Emissions procedure? My problem is with a car not a truck. I have a 1997 Mercury Cougar that is showing DTC's P1443 (EVAP problem), P0135, P0141, P0155 and P0161 (O2 sensor Heater Circuit problem for all four sensors). I have cut and pasted below the DPS write-up pertaining to what they call (Non-Continuous) Readiness Monitors Check. This indicates there can be two non-continuous monitors that read Non Ready for this year vehicle and the vehicle will pass. The inspection report has categories EVAP and O2 Sens Htr listed as two seperate monitors. Is this as simple as disconnecting the battery just prior to the inspection to reset the codes and have the CEL go out when the car is running? If I do that will only the EVAP and O2 Htr Sensors read Not Ready when the test is run or will this effect any other monitors that are checked during inspection?
Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Erv R.

Cut and pasted from Texas DPS Site:

• Check 3 - OBDII (Non -Continuous)
  Readiness Monitors check These monitors are like self checks of each emissions component (EGR, O2 sensor, etc) within the OBDII system. These non-continuous monitors are considered Ready until either DTC's have been cleared with a scan tool or if battery power has been disconnected, then the monitors will reset back to Not Ready.
  In order to get the monitors set back to Ready, the vehicle must be driven through a drive cycle, which is a combination of city/highway driving for a set period of time. This drive cycle relearns the OBDII system and rechecks all of the emissions component's individual systems. As each system completes its own self test, the monitor will set back to Ready.
  Effective October 15, 2008:
  For vehicles year model 2001 and newer, we allow one (1) non-continuous monitor to be Not Ready and still pass the test, but two (2) or more Not Ready's will cause the vehicle to fail.
  For vehicles year model 1996 – 2000, we allow two (2) non-continuous monitors to be Not Ready and still pass the test, but three (3) or more Not Ready's will cause the vehicle to fail.
  
  There are three (3) continuous monitors that are always Ready: Misfire, Fuel System, and Comprehensive Components. If you look at your Vehicle Inspection Report (VIR), you will see the emissions monitors listed and their Ready/Not Ready status. If any of the non-continuous monitors say N/A (Not Available) or N/S (Not Supported), then there is no monitor for that system.
  This information is illustrated in a "Ready or Not" poster displayed in all of the emissions testing stations as well as the Recognized Emissions Repair Facilities (RERF's).

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Just a suggestion see if these guys will help out
General Automotive Discussion - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

or go here and post where you id the engine
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Ford truck and SUV owners and enthusiasts Community And Information Source.

Also pulling the batt will be picked up by the scan tool. So clearing the codes that way wont work.

 

Disconnecting the battery won't help. You need to fix the problem. I just went through this. After disconnecting the battery had to drive about 200 miles before the computer was "ready". And by then the check engine light was back.

 

Thanks DRRXR and jdbanks. I am new here. I apologize if I posted this in the wrong place. I started under this forum because I figured someone from the Texas Chapter might understand how this works here in Texas. I already posted the O2 Heater problem under the 4.6L Modular Engine Forum. One of the fellas who had the same four codes on the same make and year car feels the PCM is bad. I already picked up a used one and plan on seeing if that solves that problem. I am just trying to understand how the option of having two non-continuous monitors read Not Ready works if that doesn't solve the problem. Even then I may still have to deal with the EVAP code.

 

Hey no post posted is ever posted wrong in our chapter. Were here to help if we can. I just feel that you may get more help else where is all. At least I hope you do. Let us know what happens

 

Good evening Rock and other Texas Chapter members,
I had a very successful day. The PCM I picked up cleared the P0135, P0141, P0155 and P0161 codes. Krewat was the member who helped me determine teh PCM was bad. I also cleared the P1443 code by installing a new Purge Valve Solenoid which was still there after I installed the new PCM. I did get a code P0443 (EVAP circuit problem) right after I installed the solenoid. I discovered I had accidently disconnected the Canister Purge Valve in the process. Once I hooked it back up all the codes cleared and the CEL did not come back on. The car also passed inspection. Good for another year. I am still not sure how the two monitors "Not Ready" works in Texas but I guess right now it doesn't matter. Thanks to all.

Erv R.

 

Hey Erv thats great news right there. Was it exspensive?

 

I think we got away pretty cheap considering. The PCM with shipping charge was $95 and the Purge Valve Solenoid was $23 with tax at Advance Auto. Saved a ton in labor thanks to Krewat. I started working on this problem the beginning of November. I could only work on the car weekends since my son uses it to get to a van pool stop for work week days. In addition to the code problems the car was hit last summer by an uninsured driver. The guy took off but left his license plate on the road. Was easy to find. LOL I ended up JB welding the header panel to reattach the headlight and directional. JB weld is amazing stuff. Had to buy a new directional for $39 on E-bay. All together got this thing street legal for around $200 including the inspection. I didn't think that was too bad.

 

Thats a steal right there. 95 for the pcm/ecu alone sounds great. Good for you.

 

It sure is. I was ready to buy a rebuilt at Autozone but I got scared off. They wanted around $150 but the deal was we had to ship our PCM out to be rebuilt. They told us it was going to take 3 to 6 weeks to get back. Couldn't afford to disable the car for that long. Didn't make sense to me. Used was the next best route to take. Krewat even led me to the site (car-parts.com) to locate a match to the one we had. The one I found was from Raymer Auto Parts in Van Nuys, CA. Had it in three days even with New Years holiday.