Inner tie rod replacement
#1
Inner tie rod replacement
If it doesn't rain this weekend I'm planning on replacing my inner tie rod on my 77 2wd. I could see the slop in it while I had my helper (daughter) turning the wheel back and forth.
My question is, since it has so much slop in it am I going to need a tie rod separator fork to get it apart from the center link? I don't have one and I don't want to get home and start trying to take it apart and then need it. I would think with as loose as it looks it would fall apart when I take the castle nut off, but not sure so I thought I'd ask.
Thanks,
My question is, since it has so much slop in it am I going to need a tie rod separator fork to get it apart from the center link? I don't have one and I don't want to get home and start trying to take it apart and then need it. I would think with as loose as it looks it would fall apart when I take the castle nut off, but not sure so I thought I'd ask.
Thanks,
#2
No, it won't fall apart. The wear in the tie rod's ball joint is separate from the tapered mounting stud. I would definitely have a separator handy.
In the past, in a pinch, I've succesfully separated tie rods by either hitting them sharply on the side next to the stud with a big hammer, and I've also hit the threaded end of the stud to break it loose. The last one ONLY if your not going to be reusing the stud.
In the past, in a pinch, I've succesfully separated tie rods by either hitting them sharply on the side next to the stud with a big hammer, and I've also hit the threaded end of the stud to break it loose. The last one ONLY if your not going to be reusing the stud.
#3
#4
i have had good luck with putting penetrating lube on it a couple days before. like said above if you will reuse anything i get a prybar underneith it and hit it on the side sharply and after a couple hits it will pop loose. if i don't plan on reusing it and i can get in there with a big hammer you can drive it out by just hitting the threaded part.
#5
If you loosen the nut, back up one side with big hammer or any solid steel object and wack the other side real sharp a few times it should pop, some penatrating oil the night before will also be a big help. The loan-a-tool at Autozone is free so why not have it, they have a screw type seperator that is kind to all parts involved for re-assembly and what is known as a Pickle fork that still often needs a few wacks with a hammer and most of the time it cuts your dust boots, great for parts not being reused.
One last thing while your out remember a little something for your helper! It goes a long way.
One last thing while your out remember a little something for your helper! It goes a long way.
#6
If one end is gone, the others may not be far behind. While you are tearing into it, doing all 4 may make sense. It will also need alignment (toe set) when done so it handles OK and doesn't tear up the tires.
I've done OK on PU's with a "carpenters rule" alignment. Measure distance between tires from a consistant tread feature. The measurement across the front of the tires should be 3/16" less than the measurement across the rear... 3/16" toe in.
I've done OK on PU's with a "carpenters rule" alignment. Measure distance between tires from a consistant tread feature. The measurement across the front of the tires should be 3/16" less than the measurement across the rear... 3/16" toe in.
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