77 F150 2wd

I've really been meaning to get to this for awhile, but I've been putting it off. Due to how bad the leak is, I've had to drive it a several times with the pump dry.. How bad is this damaging the pump?

I replaced the high and low pressure lines going to the steering gears thinking this was the problem (there's so much built up gunk in under my hood I honestly couldn't tell where the leak was coming from). This did not solve my problem and I had almost a full bottle of Type F on my garage floor

On closer inspection, It looks like it's leaking from the Steering gear box? All of the fluid is running down the pitman arm, and there's no new leaks coming from the new hose connections. Is there an easy way to replace the steering gear box? Does the whole thing even need to be replaced? I've got quite a bit of play in my steering, but I was thinking that could be due to the radius arm bushing basically being rotted away (they're in the mail on their way).

 

If it's not a hose issue and your box is leaking probably you probably need a rebuilt box. don't let anyone tell you to just replace the seal that works seldom in a worn out box.

So you can get a POS Cardone box or something similar or if you want a quality one Redhead is as good as it gets. but more expensive.

Running a pump out of oil can quickly trash some pumps, I've ruined Saginaw pumps really fast . you might be ok but you'll know soon enough if you put a new box on. just know not replacing the pump can void your warranty on the new box if your old pump feeds metal into it.

 

X2 on new box. Redhead or bluetop is the way to go.

 

X3 on Redhead and Bluetop. I have Redheads and love them.

However, if the leak is coming from the sector shaft (bottom shaft), you can fix that easily. Get a seal kit from local parts store. Don't go digging with picks or running self tapping screws into the old seals to remove them. Try this, it works: Remove the pitman arm nut and pitman arm. Remove the snap ring. Reinstall the nut, but only a couple of turns. Crank the engine, and turn your steering wheel from stop to stop until the fluid pressure blows the seals and spacers out. They'll be captured by the nut, and they'll be in order and oriented correctly. Remove the nut, and remove the seals and spacers, keeping them in order and oriented correctly for reference when you install the new ones. The seal kit will possibly have the wrong thickness spacers, but you can reuse the old ones. That's what I had to do.

Edit: There are two seals and two steel spacers. The upper seal will sometimes not come all the way out on it's own, but you can easily pull it out.

 

Thanks fellers. I was looking at LMC truck and their box is quite a bit cheaper than the redhead or bluetop boxes. Price WITH the core charge is the same as Blue and Red without the core charges. Bluetop is also sold out. I've seen a few opinion threads already, but are they pretty similar quality wise? Would buying the box from lmc be a bad move?

Also, how complicated is replacing the steering box?

 

My guess is the LMC box is a Cardone or some other cheap sort of restored box. if you're going to do that just go to your local parts house. if this is not a rig you care much about or plan to get rid of that may be good enough.

Readhead actually rebuilds them they don't just toss in a chinese kit and call it good. you get what you pay for .

Changing the box is not a big deal . on a 2wd getting at it might be a little tougher but it's something most anyone can do.

 

So to keep you on the road and fluid in the box, just replace the input and output seals. And then save up/when they get one in, and get a Red Head or Blue Top. They both are quality products and both get machine work done in a problem prone area. IMO I would not by one from LMC.

As far as a seal replacement, It’s easier done on the bench, but it it can be done on vehicle? Use a piece of PVC pipe to tap in the new seal.
1. Remove the pitman arm from the steering box output shaft (sector shaft), rent a pitman arm puller, do not use a tie rod fork.
2. Then there's a snap ring that needs to be removed. Once that's out of the way there is a washer, then a seal, then another washer and another seal.
3. Remove the first washer exposing the first seal. Take a sharp center punch and pierce the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out. You can do two screws 180 degrees apart too. Once the first seal is out, remove the second washer and repeat the process.

You can also follow Rangers advice and try just removing the snap ring, (after the pitman arm is off) put the pitman arm nut back on a few turns, start the engine and turn the wheel to the left and right. And it will usually blow the whole thing out, both seals and spacers but you better have a huge drain tray under it, then reassemble. Confused? Take it apart and put it back in the order it came apart. But with new parts.

4. Replace the seals, apply a thin coating of grease to the inner lip of the seal and a thin coat of sealer to the outside diameter of the seal (I like No. 2 Permatex non-hardening). Slide the seal over the shaft and take a deep socket opr piece of PVC pipe that matches the seal diameter (2"?) that’s just slightly smaller than the OD of the seal and drive the seal in until it seats. Replace the washer then the next seal, washer then snap ring.
5. Reinstall the pitman arm, hook up the steering linkage and that's it. If you don't have a socket that's deep enough you can use a piece of pipe or tubing too. The killer on these is getting everything centered. With the exception of the sector shaft Ford basically only sold the internals as an assembly.

The input shaft (F3AZ-3E502-A) & sector shaft (D7AZ-3E501-A) seal kits are available from Ford and auto parts stores.Seal kit, steering gear sector shaft
Parts list #64, With gear ID SPA-AB, AJ, AN, BN, BS, BX, CC, CN
Basically this covers all 73-79 2WD F100-350 w/powersteering
D7AZ-3E501-A.. Sector Shaft Seal Kit
Last dealer cost $29.41 List $43.71
So try the dealership OR ……
Parts International, Farmers Branch, TX has 50 (972) 241-8730
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 19 (800) 543-4959
Manderbach Ford, Temple, PA has 5 (610) 929-3683
Freese Motor Inc., Monticello, IA has 4 (319) 465-3541
Herb Chambers Ford, Westboro, MA has 2 (508) 366-8311

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...+steering+seal

Steering box input seal…piece of cake 30 minutes 78 F250. Try dealership OR……Autozone part # 8520 $8.99 in stock. Ford part #

F3AZ-3E502-A Input Shaft Seal Kit…undo bolt at rag joint, remove plastic cover on steering column (in cab) loosen steering column bolts (2 bolts to dash) pull up on column and disconnect rag joint from steering box, drill small hole in dust seal on steering box & screw a screw in and remove seal remove snap ring, drill hole in seal remove with screw. Replace seal, snap ring, dust seal and reconnect steering column.

 

Just might have to save for a new pump then. Does anyone know if these guys are still doing rebuilds? http://www.stangerssite.com/FPrebuilding.html

If so, I think I'll start with that option. They seem like they've got a ton of info and are very thorough.

 

I'd say bluetop is just as good and their core policy is quite clear unlike redhead.
I just installed a bluetop over the summer, no complaints really. Besides it costs $$$ It was a bear of a job getting the column to slide over the shaft of the box though.
Might have been the shaft I installed "shrug"
You're going too need to replace both, I thought my pump was bad and it was the box seal leaking.
As cheap as pumps are, might as well replace it to be safe.

 

And do an Saginaw p/s pump upgrade, since we are spending your money.

 

Redhead's core return policy is simple. put your old box back in the box the new one came in and place the supplied label on it. when it gets back to them they refund your deposit. done it many times and no issues at all.

They sell great products and they're great to deal with. there may be others who do as good of job but there are none better.

 

I am sure the fine print say as long as the core is not damaged and or it rebuildable.

RED HEAD: What determines if I get a full refund, or partial refund, of my core?

1. In most instances, a full credit is refunded once we receive a customer’s core.
2. On occasion we will have to reduce the amount that is refunded. This may occur with one of the following:
   • If a valuable and integral part of the steering gear is compromised to the point that it has to be replaced such as
     • component that connects to axle is broken, cut, welded, twisted, or has damaged threads
   • If the core that is sent back to us is a steering gear of lesser value we will reduce the refund accordingly.
   • If the core that is sent back to us is not original equipment we will likely need to reduce the refund. The reason for this is because some of the aftermarket steering gear companies may offer steering gears that are modified in a way that renders them unbuildable.

 

True, but you can't blame them . it has to be useable.

I've bought at least a half dozen and they've promptly refunded me.

 

I agree that a business in the business of rebuilding steering boxes need to keep the items that need to be rebuilt rolling in to keep them rolling out.

BLUE TOP: 3.1 Core Returns
Cores must be returned within 30 days of purchase. Cores returned after 30 days but less than 180 days will be credited at 50%. Cores returned after 180 days will not be credited. Cores returned must be exact same gearbox that was purchased. Aftermarket cores or cores not identical to purchased gearbox will be credited at 25%. Damaged cores will be credited at a lower percentage. Broken, twisted, or otherwise damaged output or input shafts will result in 50% core credit. If you are not sure if your core is aftermarket or OEM you can email a photo of your gearbox to info@bluetopsteeringgears.com and we will help verify.

 

their policy leaves a lot of room for we can screw you if we want.
it's about we will pay you what we feel it's worth and not give any indication of what a person can expect back.
I refused to use them because their policy is too ambiguous. It's too shady, could be a good core and
they could send you nothing back and you couldn't doing anything about it. Because their policy says that .
I don't trust that.
I sure in the heck wasn't going to ship a core to someone I had no idea if I would even get a refund and pay the shipping?
Especially if Junior was having a bad day or needed his oxy fix.
Bluetop was look this is what you are going to get if this is what we get. straight black and white
What is hard about that and why can't redhhead do that? I would have used them immediately due to all the good feedback on them.
Bluetop refunded the entire core for me. It's been working great for me.
The bluetop guy worked for redhead for quite some time. It's the same build quality imnsho.
Bluetop has a customer for life here and it is a ford blue top