650 CCA & 757 CCA.

 

that's not low enough to cause a problem, stock batteries are 750cca. when my first set crapped out one was 335 and the other was 600

 

Nope, I couldnt see anything else. No instrument cluster issues either.. Tune musta went haywire I guess?
Yeah you should.

 

Twice in 24 hours? With zero prior issues? Two different tuners?

Not impossible I guess but extremely hard to believe.

Ive been running it through my mind to think if I did ANYTHING different recently, but I've been running the 6.4.31 for weeks.

 

Now that I am thinking about it I had the same issue early on. A little different but it was the tune.

I have the banks 6 gun. Several of us early people would pull up to a light and the truck would die.

Turn out to be the tune.

Banks got right on it and re-wrote the tune.

 

Oh sorry, I meant the tune on mine went haywire.

Id start by replacing the batteries, they can cause all sorts of issues. They should still be under warranty shouldnt they?

 

Yeah. They're covered up to 3/36

 

I wonder if it's worth trying to monitor the battery voltage with the MiniMax. The next time it acts up, see if it's bouncing around.

Doesn't make sense even if the batteries are weak. When the engine's running, voltages should be good as long as the alternator is working.

 

Yeah. Was thinking that too. I was checking the earlier and I was between 13.4 & 14.1. Nothing abnormal.

 

I disagree with this, most of it makes alot of sense with weak batteries. On a truck (and car) with so much electronics and computers, weird things can and do happen. Ive seen it first hand. However, it appears his batteries seem to be fine and arent the issue.

Maybe a bad ground somewhere?

 

Here's a sample of what happened today. Didn't get the camera going until a few minutes in. This is just the TCS not turning on.
<a href="http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i34/westwoodlands/?action=view&current=94796df2.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i34/westwoodlands/94796df2.mp4" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

 

I'm not doubting you on this, but it seems strange. The reason why I mentioned it is because the batteries double as a filter capacitor hanging off the alternator by filtering the alt's rectified AC output, so unless they've opened up, there should be 'clean' DC. (Automotive 12V DC power is far from being clean in general)

I was thinking along the same lines--a bad ground or some oxidation/moisture on some connector pins in the PCM connectors, but working immediately after reflashing it would sort of rule that out.

This is starting to give me the creeps about tuning... when my car crapped out in my younger days, I'd just tow it home and fix it in my garage. Not sure I'd even know where to start these days

[post edit] Just occurred to me..how does the display cluster work? Is it getting all of its data via the same OBD bus? If the tune got trashed, RM2738 wouldn't be able to drive it. Is it possible the Minimax OBD module is doing something funny and corrupting OBD signalling?

 

I hear ya, I wasnt meaning to sound argumentative... And I agree it is strange. I wouldnt let it bother you about tuning though, you can always load stock back and be where you were without tuner...There isnt alot the avg joe can do on these dang things nowadays anyways.

The cluster lighting up reminds me of our two 2008 dodge 5500 (6.7lcummins) service trucks.....in one of them if you hit a solid bump/hole/rock or something the inst. cluster lights up like a christmas tree, the other unit has done it too just the other week.....But those trucks are always breaking down and at the dealer so it wasnt always just one thing it was multiple issues...
Im going to watch the vid now

 

Just to clarify, you are running H&S tuner? If so, which tunes have you tried and have you tried stock setting?

Bad ground, melted wires? rats nest?

 

To clarify, the two batteries are wired in *parallel* i.e. + to + and - to -, not series. A series connection would give 24V, not 12V.