Hey all

I'm ordering and hopefully installing seals on my 94 F250 tomorrow. I was wondering if anyone had some tips or tricks or could tell me if I should order anything special? What should I expect to deal with after the shafts come out? Just wanna make sure there's no secret I'm gonna miss and end up doing it again in a few days or worse.

Thanks for the help!

 

There is a TSB concerning the 94 models regarding a mid-year change to the hub design if you have the full-floating rear. It takes a special socket on these. If yours is semi-floating then it's more like the older rear ends.

 

How can I check this before tomorrow and what is the difference in the seals themselves?

 

There is supposed to be a mark on the end of the axles. You should be able to find the TSB on this site. I think the seals are all the improved version now, the big difference is the addition of a slinger and different inner bearing.

 

Hey Red,
Remember to buy or rent the special tool to remove the racheting locknut that secures the pumpkin.

 

Red, do you know for sure the bearings arent going bad. Usually when a wheel seal leaks they are being reamed out by the bearring being out of tolerance. I would do some investigating when I got it apart. Also remember to check the seals surfaces for galding and or scoring. I wont do you any good to put a new seal on a marred up seal surface.

 

It turned out that the piece of the brake assembly that turns the star on the auto-adjusters came loose but was still hanging by the cable. It got wrapped up and actually wore the seal itself into two separate pieces. It also wore on the face of the hub, but not where it contacts the seal, so its no problem. I got the new seals in and haven't had any problems. It did take chipping a small piece of the retainer off to determine that the driver's side threads are left handed. Donor truck strikes again.

 

Well at least you didnt have to look very deep to find the cause of the bad seal. Glad you got it fixed.