Well I'm committed, got my Setrab 40 row cooler yesterday, on to the Hastings oil filter and housing, and thermostat, then start tearing down, if anyone would like pics, I can post. I'm figuring $600 in parts and if you don't mind getting your hands dirty you'll really be saving over the $2000 price of kits on the market.

 

How are you making the delete plate?

 

Subscribing.... Anxious for pics !

 

I'm gonna use the existing housing and either weld bungs in it or tap it, but since I have a van with an external frame mounted filter I may tap into the lines going to it if they are big enough, I'll know better when I get in there but will have most of the parts ready. I'm going pretty close to what fellow member Hubler did on his, and gotta thank him for his DIY with pics. The only difference would be I'm using a thermostat, which he talked abt. adding don't know if he ever did, and he used a plate initially, but went to the tapped oil housing later on in his build.

 

You still run coolant through the old oil cooler. And run the risk of mixing oil and coolant. Without a proper delete plate you are just polishing a terd. Not trying to discourage ya, just point ya in the right direction.

 

From what I understand, and mind you I haven't dug in there yet, I will remove the old cooler and block it off so there will be no coolant going thru it, I'm thinking whatever fed the coolant to it will be blocked or diverted and I'm left with a shell of an oil cooler housing containing only oil. From what I saw on Hublers and a few other guys doing there own the coolant passages were blocked with freeze out plugs, or welded caps and i'm doing an EGR delete at the same time. And I appreciate all the feedback you guys can give me, even if it's a little discouraging, I want all the education I can before getting in there. I'm new to the 6.0 was a 7.3 guy before.

 

Hubler made a delete plate out of aluminum. Also I don't think its wise to dead end a coolant passage. It needs to flow or it will boil in place. Making a delete plate is the only thing holding me back off of the project. And it is very nessisary if your going to do it.

 

If you read the end of Hublers thread he removed the plate and put a housing on that had fittings, why, I don't know as I haven't been able to get him to respond. I also found a thread $450 remote oil cooler - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum. This guy actually threaded the oil filter housing area and plumbed to that, said his unit worked great but removed it as he was having leakage at the oil filter housing, which should have been a easy fix, I found 2 more using original housings where the guys have'nt had any problems, and I may be able to hook into my OE remote filter plumbing since mine is a van. But you are bringing up a good point, I didnt look that closely at their attention to the cooling part. I thought they all blocked it off and had no problems. Wouldn't you think blocking it off would be just like any other area on the block or heads having a freeze out plug.? I don't think they get hotter in those area's, but if not how can you divert the flow. How do the guys mfg. these units do it, do they divert, block Etc. If they leave it in place, then the big money units would still have the issue you describe of having the chance of oil, water mix, if not do they use a bypass line etc. Can't see as it would be that hard to bypass it?. Again, have'nt been in there. If you look at the thread I posted he shows a housing and all the flow, ll try to post it if I can.

 

Here's the pic showing oil and coolant flow, if it opens!


http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/att...cooler-pic.jpg

Now I see he said he left his cooler in so it would still flow, why not just remove it, where does the coolant come from that feeds that OE cooler?


This guy blocked his, another nice build.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ss-filter.html

 

If you block coolant flow through the oil cooler, you will be creating the problem that you seem to be trying to fix. A blocked up oil cooler starving the EGR cooler of coolant. If you have deleted the EGR cooler, then you can block the flow of coolant through that entire path without any concern that I can see.

 

Thats what I figured, and I'm doing the EGR delete at the same time, while it's apart.

 

I have my turbo off, ready to remove the intake, does anyone know the path of coolant. From what I can see via coffee table book, coolant comes from a port in the block up thru the oil cooler/filter base, thru the oil cooler, then out of the base into the EGR cooler, thru the EGR cooler, into the coolant passage of the intake manifold, and then into the front cover, so I'm thinking if I block the port in the block so coolant can't flow into the base, then block the intake where the EGR cooler attaches, and block the intake to housing union where the big O ring is I should be OK. Will this stop all flow of coolant to intake, or will the intake still have coolant flow via heads /ports, or do I somehow need to keep this flow going, don't want to totally cut off the coolant flow and have a problem. I think it will be Ok, someone chime in if not.

 

What do you think about plumbing a coolant filter in instead of blocking off, would
prevent problem if blocking the flow is a issue.

JIMBOB another redneck with an opinion

 

SUBSCRIBING

cant wait for the pics take alot of them if you can

Hope its not to big of PIA on the e-series

Good Luck with it

 

I've already got a coolant filter hooked in, don't know if I could plumb from the housing to the intake to keep that flow going, I have to look a little closer, but was looking for some input from someone who may have been there already, but you do bring up a good point, if i didn't already have one hooked up it could be plumbed in.